Angelam Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Hello! I hope no one minds me just jumping in and asking a zillion questions...My husband and I have just started trying to make candles and have hit a few snags. We ordered what the supplier said was "top notch" in wax, and wicks. We decided on all soy wax, and vegetable wax dipped wicks. We put the maximum amount of scent that the wax would hold (according to supplier) At this point we are just trying to get them to look right. They are all container candles (so far) and look great until you get to the surface, and they form sink holes, looked ridged, etc. We've tried adjusting the temp of the wax, adjusting the temp of the jars, repouring the top, using a heat gun, and none of it seems to get that professional smooth look to it. Also, even though we are putting the max amount of scent, they just seem to smell like wax, and not much more...??Any tips for a newbie on what we're doing wrong??? TIA! This looks like an awesome site!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Welcome to the board and candle making I can't help with your questions since I don't use soy. You can find a lot of information by reading here though. You might want to read through the veggie section for some help with the soy. A helpful hint though... when asking questions, give as much information as possible. Who is this supplier, the name of the wax, what size wicks, size/shape of containers, what temp did you mix at, what temp did you pour, cooled fast or slow, etc, etc, etc...lol. Very small differences can make a big difference in the outcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelam Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 Thanks SatinDucky! I am at work right now, so I don't know the exact names/numbers of the wax and wicks, but I will definately find out and post that info!~ We bought all of our supplies from LoneStar Candle Supply, since they are local, and we just had to drive 40 minutes to get there! I thought we couldn't beat that. Plus they were all very nice and helpful.... I will definately check out the veggie section! Thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapncandlecrazy Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Welcome to the board, I'm new here myself and have only been making candles for about 6 months. I'm not sure I can help much but I just wondered how long you are curing the candles before you test them. Some people say 1 week some say 2. I personally prefer to test at 2 weeks. If the scent is there after 2 weeks I try a different fo supplier or wax. As for the tops I pour around 90 to 100 degrees and usually don't have rough tops. I hope this helps some. As I said I am fairly new to this myself.Melanie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 One lesson I learned the hard way.... add the fragrance oil in as soon as you have removed the wax from the heat source, then stir until you pour, which is a much cooler temperature. You do this as the wax "takes" the fragrance oil better at a higher temp.Also, soy candles need to cure, and can take at least a week for that to happen. Scent will improve over that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Lone Star is a good company. I would just call them and ask them about it. I have bought from them - fo, jars, dye, and wax until I found a supplier closer to me for wax. Of course I use paraffin. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryCreekCandles Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 One lesson I learned the hard way.... add the fragrance oil in as soon as you have removed the wax from the heat source, then stir until you pour, which is a much cooler temperature. You do this as the wax "takes" the fragrance oil better at a higher temp.I was told to add the frag oil just b4 pouring at around 110F as the oil(scent) will "burn off" otherwise...now i'm confused:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryCreekCandles Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 sorry , i meant to quote the first paragraph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 It won't evaporate much if you've removed the wax from the heat source. Trust me, it makes a difference.Example... testing Peaks' Vanilla Hazelnut... 9 candles, 3 different waxes, 3 different wicks. Fired up all 9 to see how they would burn.. couldn't even smell them in the room.Made one... added fo right after removing from heat, poured cooler as usual... filled up whole room by itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapncandlecrazy Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I have been told that you should add the fo around 170 - 180 degrees and stir like crazy. This has worked for me and the cold and hot throw are stong.Melanie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelam Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 OKay guys, I am back with the info!!We are using Cargill Nature Wax C-3The container I am testing right now is an oval hex shape smaller container. we used a ECO-4 wick in this one. As far as our temps, we are heating/melting wax at 160-180Adding FO/color once it reaches around 140-160(using color drops, not blocks) and pouring right then (after stirring for about 3 minutes) thanks for all of the great replies so far!!! I can see this is going to be lots of trial and error fun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I'm not sure this will work for you, but I heat C-3 to 175, transfer to my pouring container, add my fo immediately (about 170) and pour into my heated containers anywhere from 120-140...depends on my mood that day! It doesn't seem to matter much on between that range. If your adding color, I would add it in just before or just after the fo, while the temp is still up there so it melts completely. I know the mfg states to add fo between 140-150, but it won't throw well at that temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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