lindanelson Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Does container palm leave wet spots like soy does? I haven't used container palm, just pillar palm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 NO :whoohoo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheilaW Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Nope, I haven't ever had a wet spot with container palm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carol k Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 glass glow palm, candlescience, the answer is no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lindanelson Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 :smiley2: I am really happy about that. Just got an order for wedding candles. I didn't want them to look ugly. These people are having an expensive wedding.The person doing the decorating is a friend of mine. She's supplying the containers. She just wants ivory color and no scent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Well I ran into a problem this week.I was looking at one of my beautiful glass glow candles I made and I turned it upside down... and the candle fell out! ( I use straight sided tumblers).So I started shaking a couple more candles and they started rattling in the jar! So I'm not getting any glass adhesion at all.I have an email into candle science to ask what I'm doing wrong, but they haven't responded as of yet.Heating glassware to 190, pouring at 195-200, by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my joy boys Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 When you get a reply from CS, could you post their recommendations here? Thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 R.S. - please don't take this wrong - but are you sure you were using the Glas Glow - with mine sitting side by side I have to double check myself to be sure I scooped up the right wax;) I have not had that happen with all that I have tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 It's the only palm wax I have at the moment, so I'm pretty sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 When you get a reply from CS, could you post their recommendations here? Thanks so much!3 days later.. no response yet. :undecided:undecided Trying to pour into a slightly cooler tumbler to see what happens.On a completely different note... I just got my first presto pot. I LOVE it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 In using the CS frosted palm wax I have noticed some rattling in the jars....must be a little bit loose maybe. But the biggest thing for me is what I call "ring around the collar." When my candle is done burning it leaves a tell tale,usually darker ring that just happens to match the depth of my melt pool. I made one totally white candle and it looks like a white shirt with a dirt ring around the the entire jar and as deep as my melt pool was.....anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this? It's the same way with my colored candles as well. I have been heating them up to 195 and pouring them at that also. I even pre-heat my jars to 140 just like the good folks at CS told me to do.....I'm such a good boy....some of the time anyway. I thought I was maybe scorching the wax becasue that's kind of what it looks like in the white candle. Any helpful comments sure would be appreciated!Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 P.S.I have not had a single wet spot with the palm wax either....and my hot throw is much better than with soy wax and using less fragrance oils as well....now that makes me happy....smilesMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Mike, are you talking about some residue on the glass or in the wax? I am wondering if you are having a little sooting problem... Gotta photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becky0404 Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 I also use the frosted palm from CS. I get that discolored wax on the top also, although it doesn't bother me. I got it with some of my soy candles too.I had the same problem of the wax coming completely out of the jar (I use a straight sided jar) and my palm container could almost be a pillar, lol! I solved the problem by adding some soy to it to soften it up and it works perfectly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Hi Stella,I have no residue on the inside of the jar. It has burned clean all the way around the edge of the jar and there is no black or any other color on the inside of my jars. I do have photos and I also have a Mac.....which means I don't really know how to load them up and send them to you.....got any pointers? The folks at CS told me that they think that that is just the nature of palm wax and that it does also happen in soy candles as well......never happened in any of my soy candles.....boy,now I am so confuddled I don't know what to think.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Sorry, I am a Mac idiot. Now I have not used the Candlescience palm waxes, so I am just speaking about what I have observed with the "normal" palm wax we've been buying here... I have seen palm wax occasionally have a ring of lesser pigmentation (like fading almost) and the texture is slightly different from the surrounding wax, but I don't remember it having ever been darker unless there was soot or some other contaminant in the wax. Does this happen in ALL your containers? Could it be a FO issue (like a darker FO vs a clearer one) or a colorant problem? I have noticed this phenomenon happens more when the melt pool is disturbed as it is cooling. It also is more noticable when I pour the candle at a lower temperature, but honestly, I have not seen it happen very often in our pillar candles.As for the candle releasing from the container, palm wax is super easy to demold, so that doesn't surprise me! Two things come to mind... Palm wax shrinks a LOT as it cools and during the first week after pouring, so it doesn't surprise me that it would "let go" easily. Another culprit is leftover oily manufacturing residue on the inside of the container. Do you wash your containers before pouring into them? All new glass (unless it has been washed) has residue left on it from the manufacturing process. Sometimes I have been able to see or feel it, but mostly not. I wash my soy wax glass containers in very hot water with Parson's sudsy ammonia. Others reported that they use Dawn (which has a grease cutting ingredient) and say it works as well for them as the stinky ammonia. I air-dry them upside down so that I will not touch the interior (oil on skin) before pouring. This has eliminated wet spots (non-adhesion places) for us totally in our soy containers, so perhaps it would help the palm container wax to hold on also.Like I said, I have not used this particular palm wax, so it may do stuff I haven't seen yet... but those are my best ideas on the problem of the "ring around the collar" and the non-adhesion. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Thanks for the info. Stella. Now my next question is: How would I get my pictures on here so that you might be able to see them?Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Well I ran into a problem this week.I was looking at one of my beautiful glass glow candles I made and I turned it upside down... and the candle fell out! ( I use straight sided tumblers).So I started shaking a couple more candles and they started rattling in the jar! So I'm not getting any glass adhesion at all.I have an email into candle science to ask what I'm doing wrong, but they haven't responded as of yet.Heating glassware to 190, pouring at 195-200, by the way.Didn't the wick sticker hold it in place? Can you hot glue or sticker them back down? Haven't worked with this wax yet but I'm thinking the entire glass with no adhesion probably looks better than wet spots?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jami Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Just something to try if you are having problem with your palm "rattling".I had that when I first started making them but didn't have it after my first batch. I heat my jars in the oven at 170 (thats as low as my gas oven will go). When I pour my wax into the jars, I put them on an inverted dishdrainer and then cover with a box. I never had any probelms once I started doing that vs. my first batch of the jars being at room temp.This last batch I made, I added 10% soy. I don't have any rattling nor has it even pulled loose from the jar. I can usually see the "shrinkage" around the top of the candle but I don't have that on the ones with the 10% soy. Using this little amount of soy doesn't affect the crystalization either.Just worth a shot for container palm if you are having those problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy, USMC Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 When my candle is done burning it leaves a tell tale,usually darker ring that just happens to match the depth of my melt pool. I made one totally white candle and it looks like a white shirt with a dirt ring around the the entire jar and as deep as my melt pool was.....anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this?MikeHey Mike, I had that experience with soy, too. It was soot from the wick that was "bleeding off" (for lack of a technical term) into the wax. What wick are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy, USMC Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Also, if the FO load is too high you may experience this type of sooting in the melt pool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Hi Judy....I am using the Candle Science CSN9 double wicked. I think it's the smallest wick they have specifically designed for their palm wax by Wedo of Germany. Would you have any other suggestions. I ordered some other wicks designed for palm wax from Wick It. Hopefully I can get some to work from them....Strahl and Pitsch recommend them for their "palm derived" waxes like their 487......might be used in Mia Bellas to but not real sure on that. So far I believe that for palm wax you should double wick them as that does create a clean burn all the way to the bottom. I have found so far that if you use just a single wick....it does not burn well but tunnels very well and that was using mostly the CSN16 wick from CS and that was the largest one they had designed specifically for palm wax.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Hey Stella and Judy,I finally figured out how to put photos on here using my wonderful Mac. They are posted in the Gallery.....let me know what you think.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 P.S. to my last post here.I forgot to tell you all how much fragrance oils I am using....so here goes:I am using mostly NG fo's so unless otherwised mentioned that is what I am using.Fresh Linen (NG)....very strong fragrance....3/4 of an ounce per pound of wax....no coloring of the wax for this one.Blueberry Patch.....Very good one from BCN...1 ounce per pound of wax and 6 drops of dark blue liquid candle dye from CS.Sweet Pea (NG).... very pleasant....1 ounce per pound of wax...1 drop of red liquid candle dye also from CSAll the rest have been made with one ounce of fo per pound of wax and a single wick and those just tunnel but don't have that ring around it at all....go figure.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becky0404 Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 littlebrownbug, I am doing exactly what you are doing. I use two CSN 9's (the smallest they make, other than for votives) and I too get that "line" around the top. However, it's not with ALL of the candles I've tested so far. So far, it's happened badly on my MacIntosh Apple (from BCN) and only a little on my Beach Bum (from JS) and not at all on my Grapefruit Vanilla Twist (from JS). So, maybe it's the fo's fault;) . I also found out what you did, that the CSN 16's just don't give a good, clean melt pool and the hot throw is not that great either. For now though, I'm not worried about the discolored line. I've finally gotten a great burning and throwing candle, so I'm happy! :yay: :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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