Bill Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Ok, so I poured these candles using EcoSoya CB, various CD's and Premier wicks for testing, and using creamy vanilla from Lone Star and spiced cranberry from Bittercreek. I had some issues with the tops of the candles that was discussed in the Candle Tops thread I started. Well........I zapped them with the heat gun and holy crap. The frosting exploded and I developed wet huge wet spots that weren't there before!! But hey, the tops look good, lol. Anyone else have problems like these after using the heat gun?Thanks for everyones help too, I need it lol:laugh2: ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcroome2005 Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 I love the jars. I can't help ya on the frosting issue because I don't do soy but had to comment that the jars look great. I have noticed that certain jars love wet spots! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meridith Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Bill, I wouldn't worry about frosting or wet spots since it doesn't affect the candle, burn or throw. Plus you can really drive yourself nuts over this so why go there. The way the candle burns and throws is what is important to the customers. Just educate them about soy and things will be alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myst25872002 Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 I am new to soy candles I have mostly worked with canes I don't sell my soys yet because I have to much testing to do yet. maybe I shouldn't really be posting because I am so new but I have had the same problem and I can tell you what I did (not sure if it's ok but it worked and might upset some people for doing this but here goes) On the first one when mine look like that I either set it in a pan of hot water to remelt the outside of the candle then let it set and cool slowly, or I have just heat gunned it to remelt the outside. On the second one I am not real sure but looking at the pic it looks like part of it has seperated from the jar and some hasn't, if it hasn't been more than a day or two since you poured it you can set it in the fridge for 5 minutes and maybe a few minutes more if you have to (it will continue to seperate after being removed from fridge) and usually the rest will pull away from the glass and it will look very uniform and actually very nice HTHDonna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meridith Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 You can sometimes use the heat gun to get rid of wet spots, but they will usually come back. You can use BW to help reduce frosting but sometimes that won't work either. A big culprit of frosting is coloring but even w/out it, you can still get frosting. Take a look at the bigger candle companies like Yankme and you will see wet spots on their candles too. Donna if your system works and you like it, good for you, keep it up and I wouldn't worry what anyone has to say. But my theory is why spend that much time if it will more than likely come back and won't affect the candle or burn? We all have a different way of doing things and have different outcomes. I say stick with what you like and what works for you. My customers don't mind frosting or wet spots so while I try to avoid them, I also don't worry when I get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 I got frosting like that with C-3 if I even SHOWED it the heat gun. I ended up using my finger to rub the tops down where the wax creeped up the wick and any circle cracks appeared.I'm using 464 now and I heat gunned a dark red and got NO frosting afterward! -Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugtussle Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 When I use a heat gun on candles, I use it at its lowest setting. Too much heat will do all kinds of things to a candle including melting the wick coating. This time MORE is not better. Carole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 When I use a heat gun on candles, I use it at its lowest setting. Too much heat will do all kinds of things to a candle including melting the wick coating. This time MORE is not better. CaroleDitto this...use the heat gun gently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragnarock47 Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 My apologies for the hijack Bill...I was looking at heat guns and the ones I saw were all really high temps, like 650F max. Most had 2 or 3 temp settings. Are these the guns you all are using?650F seems pretty high, even mid 200's and up. When you fix tops with the gun, how far do you hold the gun from the container? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharon in KY Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I am new to soy candles I have mostly worked with canes I don't sell my soys yet because I have to much testing to do yet. maybe I shouldn't really be posting because I am so new but I have had the same problem and I can tell you what I did (not sure if it's ok but it worked and might upset some people for doing this but here goes) On the first one when mine look like that I either set it in a pan of hot water to remelt the outside of the candle then let it set and cool slowly, or I have just heat gunned it to remelt the outside. On the second one I am not real sure but looking at the pic it looks like part of it has seperated from the jar and some hasn't, if it hasn't been more than a day or two since you poured it you can set it in the fridge for 5 minutes and maybe a few minutes more if you have to (it will continue to seperate after being removed from fridge) and usually the rest will pull away from the glass and it will look very uniform and actually very nice HTHDonnaThanks for the info on the jar in the hot water. Going to give it a try, I hate when I get all that frost all over the jar. I remelt it most times or give it away. Everytime I ever heat gunned the whole out side of the jar it looked like crap, even worse than before I started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravity Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I got frosting like that with C-3 if I even SHOWED it the heat gun. True.... my soy doesn't make nice with the heat gun either.... but pouring slushy and tempering it before pouring has eliminated the need of forcing it to have a play-date with the heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjrhsk Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I am also new to candle making, but this is what I have learned to do. I get great wax adhesion to my jars with gw444. No frosting or wet spots. But the tops are terrible. So, I put a thick towel around the jar and only expose the top. Then hold my heat gun about 9 inches from the jar top and slowly melt the wax and only come in closer at spots that need it. And only for a few seconds. Then cover the whole jar to cool slowly. I may have to do it a few times. It takes a longer but it usually works pretty good. I really hate putting that much time into it though. I'm going to try ecosoya 135 and see if the tops are better for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jldorrington Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 ahh another reason to add to my list of why i love tins. lol. i tried jars a couple times but just couldn't get past the wet spots and frosting.. tins i only have to worry about the tops. although i did recently get 12oz jelly jars (quilted) and i poured ultra hot (i know soy no no) but they came out PERFECT. no wetspots no frosting a little funky on top but a quick blast of my heat gun and after that Perfection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fern-Marie Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Hi Bill,I've done this too.Ease up on the heating. Just a slight blast - you don't want to melt the tops or heat parts of the jar...this will cause the frosting and the pull away that you've got. Just ease up. Practice should make perfect...but this is soy.Warm the jar all around with the heat gun...until you see it starting to adhere back to the jar. Be gentle...not too much heating.It could turn into a nightmare...been there too!Make sure you're letting it cool completely before you start trying to pretty it up, this is where I always got into trouble...patience is not one of my virtues. I've learned to make them only when the sun is blasting in my kitchen. This time of year, once it's dark and the temp drops...it is always a nightmare. Keep the jars away from any cool air flow. Keep a steady warm, even-temped environment..this is critical to prevent frosting. Let it cool slowly even after blasting it with the gun, or you will never fix it. I don't think it looks that bad with the frosting, but I would try to get the wet spot out if possible if you are planning to sell it.You're doing fine, don't worry. Fern-Marie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 Thank you Fern and everyone who commented on this thread! I think I am going to re-melt some of those down as I know the wicks were too small anyways and try some experimented with them. The temp seems to be a big deal with everyone that does soy and I keep my house at 70 so I am going to try some different methods for cooling the candles slower and see how they go. I will post pics when I am done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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