Additives to reduce mottling

[Henryk]

I was researching additives to eliminate unintentional mottling in paraffin waxes. What I want to do is eliminate it or at least reduce it as much as possible, but I do NOT want to interfere with the transparency of the wax.

Therefore, I cannot use vybar 103 even in the lowest percentage, and I cannot use stearic. As far as translucent crystals, I know that hardens the wax without interfering with transparency, but does it do anything to reduce mottling? Same thing with gloss poly - I think this works similar to stearic, so in that case, I cannot use that either. Clear crystals won’t interfere with transparency, but again, does it have any effect on mottling? I've looked at microwaxes, but am unsure what one to try for this purpose. There is one called micro 195 which seems to be what I'm after that won't interfere too much.

Anything else I can try?

TIA

[topofmurrayhill]

I was researching additives to eliminate unintentional mottling in paraffin waxes. What I want to do is eliminate it or at least reduce it as much as possible, but I do NOT want to interfere with the transparency of the wax.

Coincidentally this very issue is next on my development agenda. Microcrystalline should be ideal for this as it will clobber mottling in very small quantities. I would give it a go at only 1% and only add more if you have to. At addition levels like that, there shouldn't be much effect on translucency. I plan to find out which micro is optimal, as I have several lying around here, but start with anything that's easily obtainable.

[SatinDucky]

What about UA? It kills mottle, but is supposed to increase opacity very little... just a thought.

[Jeannie]

Henry, I've been checking out the micro, sounds as if it is ideal for this.

http://candles.genwax.com/candles/___1126360746___Z40M75W.htm

[Donita]

I use 4045 to mottle and for rustics......the 4045EP isn't quite as transcluent, but it doesn't mottle. It is still a straight cut paraffin. I have used it for years. One of the things I found out about this wax is that when I pour cookie sheets for chunks, it doesn't ripple if I do add something to it....my 4045 and 4045H will. I don't know why. All of these waxes are similar but different. I would try the EP......Donita

[Henryk]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the ideas. I did write off UA initially because it is supposed to make the wax more opaque. I don't have any here but may just get some to see how opaque it gets. I found 9 different micros and its hard to pin down much info on them to seperate them out from each other. Jeannie, thats exactly one of the places I was thinking about purchasing from as there are a couple other items there I want to try also. I was looking at the 195 though because its beaded. The 175 comes in cubes. I'll probably just get a small amount of each and try it.

I think Devra used the 175 micro before and I think she was trying to do transluscent tapers - maybe she'll give us her results ?

I made a few candles with 1343 and 1218 with no additves at all to test translucency and the 1218 IS slightly more transparent just looking at it. It has a "deeper" look. I have to light them though to see how they look and just haven't had time to babysit them. Both of the waxes mottled slightly. Enough to take away from the look of the candles. The 1343 had more smaller mottles and the 1218 fewer but they were larger. Funny thing though, I poured another couple pillars of the 1218 and had almost NO mottling. The thing I did differently is by accident heat the wax up too much (to about 240F !). I'm wondering if that was the reason why it mottled MUCH less or if its simply because these were larger pillars (3x6.5 as opposed to 3x3) that they cooled slower?

EDIT: I'll check out the EP also. Thank you.

[Dee]

I did try clear crystals from a local supplier. This is what his site says.

"Clear Crystals: A polymer that is designed to raise the melting point of the wax, making the wax harder and longer burning while retaining its translucence. Often used in wax for doing overdips on tapers etc." Package says 1tsp pp.

I got no mottling and the wax stayed quite translucent (tried it with both color and without). The only question that I had was how much the melt point is raised. Can't seem to get an answer.

[Jeannie]

Donita, the 4045H.......is it a preblend? If it already has any additives adding more will cause the ripple.

Henry, let me know how it turns out The beads sound so much easier! I hate struggling to cut stuff. I was more or less taking a guess the 195 was more for the hurricane wax since the mp was so high. I guess it depends on what you are making cause I really have no idea. I just noticed they used the 175 micro with their 140 pillar wax. Look under their project pages! I would call them and bug them :rolleyes2 Forget the email it takes them forever to get back with ya! I have always wanted to try it for scent retention as well. I know a girl who uses it in just about everything and swears her votives will scent a large room. I think it was expensive but I guess you don't use but a tad. I think pourette has it too but don't remember the price.

[Alan]

HenryK, Are we talking scented or unscented candles? FO will also increase opacity. Many people over-look that fact.

BTW, you are correct that cooler slowing rates enhance translucency. The larger pillers would have cooled at a slower rate.

Cheers,

Alan

[Donita]

Jeannie....no it is not a blend, but if I add vybar or gloss poly it ripples. I can add steric with not problem, but with the 4045EP I can add gloss poly and no ripples. Do not understand the chemistry. Still learning. Donita

[Donita]

Henry.....I have used the 4045EP to make my large star candles and they have a very good glow quality. As Alan said...slow cooling too. My stars are huge so of course they air cool. I also don't use FO in them. Donita

[Dee]

So anyone (Alan, Donita others) know how much the clear crystal raise the melt point @ 1tsp pp wax?:undecided

[Henryk]

Yes, as I mentioned, NO additves, including no FO. Thanks for letting me know about the slow cooling.

As far as for how much a meltpoint gets raised with an additive you can roughly find out by making two small batches of melted wax, one with and one without the additive. Then take your thermometer(s) and stick it in. At the point it starts setting up - note the temp - that is roughly the meltpoint. Its actually the "congealing point". The meltpoint is actually around 1 to 2 degrees higher (in paraffin).