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Dee

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Everything posted by Dee

  1. Thanks for the replies. I'm not using fragrance. I did try 24 flat ply as its all I have lesft in flat ply. No luck even faster burn out to the sides. Will try a lower size when I get some more wick. Probably will try some square braid as well. Such fun!!
  2. Hi Everyone I used to belong to this site under the name of Dee. Haven't made candles for a few years but got inspired again over Christmas. Had real difficultty getting back onto the site. Tried everything suggested but no luck. So I reregistered on a second e-mail I have. Anyway its great to be back. :yay:Now for the question. Trying to dust off my brain regarding candle wicks. I just tested a 4 inch candle that I put three wicks in (used 1240 with 1/2 tsp vybar pp and no scent. I went to Peaks web site where they suggested 18 flt ply wick for one of their 4 inch molds. After 1 1/2 hours of burning my melt pool was out to the edges. Very shortly after it overflowed. So I take it the wax was not burning up at a fast enought rate. Would I go to a larger wick to get a hotter flame? Would smaller wick sizes drown? Would like to stay with flt ply as its readily available where I live. I have tried a single 42 flat ply and it was ok. 36 was not.
  3. Beautiful as all your work is!
  4. I remember where I saw this information, It is on the PEAK site at the bottom of the zinc core wicks page.
  5. Haven't made candles for awhile, but am hoping to start again. However, I always drop in to see what's going on. I recall someone on the old board saying that the reason they used zinc core wicks in container candles was to help to keep the wick from falling over into the wax as the candle was burning and causing the wax to ignite.
  6. Those are beautiful. Hope you don't mind if I try making one myself
  7. I have also found that warming the molds helps. You have to be careful not to make the molds too hot though. I just take the chill off them with a heat gun so no tiny pieces of wax stick to the sides of the mold on contact as you pour. Practising with votives first, helped. I usually don't use a water bath, but was once also asked to teach classes and know that you are limited for time and need faster cooling.
  8. I bought one just like that at one of our large local graocery chains. Have seen them all over the city. Well not only was that burn like that one, the scent was just awful. Very cheap smelling and I had a headache when I burned it. Much to my dismay, when I was in one of the local wax and soapmaking supply stores (attached to their warehouse), they were selling the same ones.
  9. Do yo have a 24 or 27 flat ply to try? I'd start with the 27.
  10. They look great! Another thing to try:grin2:
  11. Those look wonderful. Makes me want to try some for Christmas gifts.
  12. Your candle is beautiful, Henry. I bet they are a hit for Christmas. Also would love to see the other ones. Was it hard to wick? Rolled beeswax candles are very popular here. I know lots of people who love beeswax candles but the wax is extremely expensive here. The people who make pillars mostly have their own bee hives or access to a farmer's. Would also love to know where to get molds like yours. We have a local supplier of similar german molds, but the pillar molds start around $65. and up.
  13. For safety sake, I also make sure to use another thermometer mounted on the inside of the pot, because I've had a few times when the wax temperature went up much higher than the thermostat control knob was set at. (Actually, I've sometimes mounted two thermometers in the wax - kind of obsessive)
  14. Well I think you got great looking rustics. Some people try forever to get this effect. I always warm my molds before pouring to get smooth votives. I use a heast gun to take the chill off the mods before pouring. Be careful though not to get them really hot as you might then get pinholes.
  15. Very nice:smiley2: Like the rustic too. Wish we could get that wax here.
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