soprey Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I am using crystal palm wax from candles and supplies, and when i make the candle it come out with the crystal palm effect(feather look) only from the bottom to about the middle and at the very top of the candle where the wick is. I heat the wax in my presto pot and the I pour it at 200. What am i doing wrong that i can't get the crystal (feather) look all over the candle? PleaseIf anyone has any advice, I would greatly appreciate it. I called candles and supplies and she said to heat it at 200 and pour, I told her that I was not getting the crystal palm effect all over the candle and she says that she does and i'm not doing somthing right! Later I'll gett a picture up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scntdwik Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I have been having the same problem with mine!I get the feathered look from the bottom to about half way up and then a little at the very top.Hopefully somebody will respond... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darci Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 what temp are you pouring at? are you 'fussing' with the mold, or trying to force it to cool too quickly? I had similar problems if I played with it, or poured at an incorrect temp.I havent' been using this wax for long, but I'm getting great results, because I let it do its thing in its own sweet time... I pour in the neighborhood of 240*, immediately after adding FO and dye, and then I leave the molds alone for about 1hr per inch of height (I use the 3" diam seemless molds from BCN).HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scntdwik Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I pour at 200-210* and have also tried pouring clear up to 230* but get the same results.I pour it and dont mess with it for hours...It does this with all 6 of my molds except my square votive molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheilaW Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I'm not familiar with "Candle and Supply" palm wax but when I use the straight palm 2 ( crystallizing ) from "Candlewic" I have to slow cool in a warm oven to get the crystallization all over. I find the crystal palm to be much harder to work with than the feather palm (which is one of the reasons that I mix them.) Make sure your mold is warmed before you pour, heat the oven to 150 or so and turn off and put your candle in there to cool. Pouring at 200 should be fine. Also aluminum molds are better than the metal ones for getting the pattern to come out in the palm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugtussle Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 To get the crystal effect all the way, heat your molds with heat gun just before you pour and pour at 200 degrees. Carole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soprey Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks for the idea's!! I have been pouring at 200, their have been a few times i heated it to high and lowered it to 2oo for the pour, either way it still came out the same. I tried one time heating my molds in the oven turning it off at temp 200, and then pouring the wax into the molds and putting it back in the oven. It seemed like for ever and a day before they hardened all the way. I thought for sure that worked, but no I took it out and they were the same. I do not remember the pour temp on the ones i put in the oven so It could have been too high or low. I think in the morning I'll try the heat gun idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcroome2005 Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I actually put foil around the whole mold to make sure it cools as slowly as possible and it seems to work for me. I love the large crystal palm wax that I have been using. I pour anywhere from 200-210 and heat my molds as much as I can before pouring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredron Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 The real secret is to HEAT THE MOLD before you pour. When the mold is heated, the candle will cool slowly enough to get the feathering. The correct pour temperature is 200 degrees. I've never had to wrap the mold or slow cool in an oven to get beautiful results. I use Astor-F wax, and the results are stunning.Fredron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brat Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 I haven't poured a lot of palm pillars, but I've poured a few. I have never preheated the molds. I use aluminum molds, and pour about 200 and let them sit. They turn out great every time. Pillars and votives. I use the natural crystal palm wax from Candles and Supplies. I have the warmest room in the house, and I generally can't stand the wait so I pull them out of the molds maybe an hour after the sides pull away from the mold. They're still VERY warm at this point. Can't pull the wick pin out, or the center will drain out. (Not very cool!)Maybe try covering them with a cardboard box when cooling? Or try to keep them in a warmer room? I think I read here someone tried them in metal molds and they wouldn't get a pattern, then they switched to aluminum molds and got the results. Seems from what I've been reading, the slower the cooling, the better the patterns.sorry for the ramble! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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