stupid soap question

[Candlewitch]

I here all the time about MP and CP. I assume MP comes in a liquid and you pour it into molds? How does it harden if it comes in a liquid? The lye is already in it i suppose? And how much better is CP really other then being the old fashioned way to make soap? Maybe CP last longer? What happens to MP if you add some extra stuff to it to make it better? Enough questions for now and finally, i lied, is MP still better then the supermarket stuff?

[LaVida]

that is not a dumb question. I didn't know until I started soaping. M&P comes in slabs... you can even find them in your local craft supply stores.

I recenlty started CPing ..I truly enjoy CP more than MP.. it gives me an opportunity to customize how I want my soap made... With this you can be 100% sure about what ingredients are in your soap.. M&P makes beautiful novelty soaps..... I tried M&P once and I really disliked it, but I've seen some beautiful creations on this site w/ M&P.....

[Candle Man]

Here is what those Abbreviations mean http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=769

[mountainmadness]

M&P is made to be able to melt, add your stuff and pour into molds. It is not liquid until you melt it.

All soap is made with lye. No lye, no soap. With M&P that part is already done commercially.

"Old-fashioned" soap was made with ash (which contains sodium hydroxide). Although I have never used soap made from ash I hear stories from mature folks whose mother or grandmother used to make it state that it burned their skin. My guess is that because of using ash people would quite often use too much to ensure that there oils were turning into soap. When they did that it made the soap lye heavy and burned the skin. "Old-fashioned" soap in our country was typically made from animal fats because that is what they had and used. In Italy it was primarily olive oil.

You will have to either check with a melt and pour supplier or experiment to see how much you can add of various booster ingredients to your melt and pour base.

HTH.

[Candlewitch]

So many variations, I use to wonder why soapers are snobby compared to us simple candle makers. :smiley2: ...... Here is a good question. When doing a M&P, How much % of inerts can be added before you screw it up? Like making it so it doesnt form a solid? My wife is actually been begging me to do soap but I think this is where she should start?... Thanks for your advice. I actually have a mold source no one knows about for those who share.. I actually found it in a weird place by accident and said wowsa, these would be great for soaps...

[mystical_angel1219]

Soap snobs? No you didn't!

Let me first tell you that CP and MP are two totally different animals, big time.

Additives rule of thumb for MP: less is more.

If you add say, 8 oz of shea butter to 1 lb of MP- you will have a great blob of goo. Oils and butters, no more than a few tablespoons per lb. MP base can vary GREATLY supplier to supplier. SFIC is the best. If you are adding butters and oils, I would suggest also adding a preservative.

Dry ingredients such as oatmeal, luffa, seeds and botanicals can be added to suit your needs. Again, less is more- IMO. Some additives can be VERY scratchy to the skin, like lavender buds or glitter. Proceed with caution before adding anything whole. If in doubt with an additive- research it or ask questions before you turn yourself into a bloody mess. LMAO!

All molds were not created equal. If they are not intended for MP, (even some that are) you will have one heck of a time getting them out of the mold once they are set.

Also~ when packaging your finished creations, make sure you keep them airtight.

Shrink wrap, poly bags- what have you. MP can dry out very quickly.

CP, CPOP, CPHP and HP will last MUCH longer than MP if stored on a wooden dish for drainage.

MP can also be markedly drying to the skin, IMO.

[Crafty1_AJ]

All "soaps" are not created equally either. Many have synthetic detergents. Nothing wrong with that -- you just need to know what you're getting when you rub it on your skin. Some people are sensitive to detergents. They really dry my skin out, for example. Slsa, for another example, makes some people's skin itch.

Soaps made from scratch are just saponified oils. ("Saponified" is just a fancy word for "turned into soap." ) Handmade soaps typically don't contain synthetic detergents. Just thought you might like to know a key difference.

[thecandlespastore]

M&P is made to be able to melt, add your stuff and pour into molds. It is not liquid until you melt it.

All soap is made with lye. No lye, no soap. With M&P that part is already done commercially.

"Old-fashioned" soap was made with ash (which contains sodium hydroxide). Although I have never used soap made from ash I hear stories from mature folks whose mother or grandmother used to make it state that it burned their skin. My guess is that because of using ash people would quite often use too much to ensure that there oils were turning into soap. When they did that it made the soap lye heavy and burned the skin. "Old-fashioned" soap in our country was typically made from animal fats because that is what they had and used. In Italy it was primarily olive oil.

You will have to either check with a melt and pour supplier or experiment to see how much you can add of various booster ingredients to your melt and pour base.

HTH.

I think maybe in the olden days they just did not have the ability to measure accurately. African Black soap is still made with potash and it is a very gentle soap.

[thecandlespastore]

Also, it seems a lot of people are scared to do CP soap because of having to handle lye so they do M&P instead. I was sort of scared of lye at first, how to store it, handling it, but after I got it, I can't imagine ever doing anything else except CP and HP. I have never even tried melt and pour. IMO it seems like its more painstaking than CP.

[Carriegsxr6]

Candlewitch

Start with CP, you can do it. You seem like you like technical stuff and to me CP is more technical than MP. I tried MP at first and got bored real quick with it. I fully enjoy creating my own recipe and being able to have total control over all of the properties.

There are plenty of places to order all of the fixed oils from and CP safe fragrances and colors. You wont have any problem finding all the ingrediants. There are tons of webites with recipes to help you get started.

Millersoap.com is one of my faves. Try the All-Vegetable Soap recipes section, start with their Soap Classic receipe. It only uses 3 oils.

[Candlewitch]

Mp is typically dry for the skin? What the heck would they make it for? For the record, my wife will be in charge of doing the soap and I am stuck with the candles. No time to juggle both..... You think she will make a superscented bar for my summer rotten lemonade smelling armpits?