shannon Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Is anyone or has anyone used this particualr container wax? I have just started making my candles and have a few concerns on some things that are or are not happening. Can you help me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 If you go to the search button above and type in Cargill, it will bring up a ton of posts, maybe there will be something in there that will help you out. Sorry I don't know much about Cargill C3, except it gets poured hot and needs at least a week cure time to throw. Welcome to the board. :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonflydreamer Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 I'm testing with cargil c3 right now, I like it but I still have some kinks to iron out, getting some rough tops with certain FO's But all of the scents I've tried are throwing nicelyWhat's happening that you're concerned about? There are quite a few people on the boards with more experience than I and I'm sure they can help you if you give the details I've been curing mine for 3-4 days before I burn them, I'm finding out now that perhaps I should let them cure longer, but my hot throw is pretty amazing right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shannon Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 This is what I have been doing:Melt 2 lbs wax to 170', then I pour 3 oz. of fragrence in, then my dye. Cool to about 140' and let sit till it is hard. I am getting sink holes in my candles at the top. I am using ECO-14 6" wicks for all jars and pouring into 6 oz, 11 oz and 20 oz Tureen Jars. I've cooled the wax for pouring at all different temps and it keeps sinking no matter what I do. Temp pouring anywhere from 100' to 160'. I got all my supplies from Lone Star Candle Supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Not sure you are gonna get away from the sinkholes with the C3 wax. I know you have to pour it hot (site says 140-160 degrees). Best way to deal with the sinkholes, is to poke relief holes after it is firm, then wave a heatgun/or embossing gun over the top, careful not to hold it in one spot for too long. That will fill in your holes and give you a smoother top. Also, I notice you are using 3 oz for your 2 lbs. Most FO's, including Lonestar you should be able get by with about an 8% load pp of wax, some you will need 9% and some will do well at about 7%. Some of them wont throw at all no matter how much FO you put in, like some of the water type scents and lighter scents. That is common for soy. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candlewitch Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 You shouldnt be getting sink holes. Cut an ounce off the Fo to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelaVA Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 I would pour hotter much hotter than 140 and use a 6-8% Fo load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clc404 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Hi ShannonI used to use. Pour hot. Hotter than 140. I even put some BW in.Hope this helps.clc404Cheryl C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Accents Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 You need to cool them slowly to reduce the sink holes. I don't get the holes nearly as often as I used to. It's not always a real flat top, but I don't mind. Still get the occasional hole, but the heat gun is a wonderful invention. I haven't tried that much FO but got the holes anyway. Wouldn't hurt to cut back anyway. Why use more if less is just as good? HTH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hibiscus Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I always poured at or below 140 and sometimes just slushy and they came out beautifully BUT I couldnt seem to find the right wick for anything larger than a votive. I couldn't make those pretty candles burn and they had no HT no matter how long I waited to burn. I really don't like that wax and I have a couple pounds left and will use it for votives and maybe tea lights. Only one good thing about it and that is they look gorgeous before you light them. All that frosting and lumpy crap after they are cooled is just so ugly! My first candles were made with this wax and they looked perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I really like C-3. I use 1 oz. FO (great cold and hot throw) and follow the directions for tempering the wax we found in a discussion here. Since we began "seeding" the wax and tempering, we have had baby-butt smooooth tops and no caveins. We have found that the range of wicks that give good results is pretty wide... we use CDN wicks from JBN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Meyers Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 StellaWhat does tempering and seeding mean? Have used C-3 for some time with little or no problem except when I pour too hot. Use an lx24-28 up to 3"Dand cdn above. RON Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Here's a link to the discussion I read, where, down the thread, Prairie explains it better than I can... Made sense to me and I like the results. You could also try searching for tempering - I think there was a discussion of that in another thread (or maybe it was part of the one above...CRS...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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