topofmurrayhill Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 A question for those of you using a modestly sized straight-sided container with a goopy blend. Let's say Comfort or Harmony blend, or J-223, into an 8-12oz status jar or tumbler. Do you get a flat-as-a-pancake top or a little dip in the center? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I got a semi-curve in J223, but was hidden with the next layer that I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapermom Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I get a nice flat top with j223.. i don't over pour, I do pour a tad hotter than the usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Girl Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I use comfort blend, and if I pour my 12.5 status jars around 155-160 degrees I get a nice flat top, but if I pour around 170 and up, it gets the pit in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutlandishLady Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I usually get a slight dip, thank goodness for my heat gun! I'm pouring both Comfort and 6006, at about 165 degrees.On a semi-related note, what's the cheapest anyone can find on the 8 oz status jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Girl Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I've never seen an 8 oz. status jar around here, but at Libbey Glass Outlet I get the 12.5 oz. jars for $1 each. I think they carry the 7 or 7.5oz ones for 79 cents each as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutlandishLady Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 You're killing me. I can't drive to Shreveport to buy glass!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwahlton Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 fancycandlejars.com These are thinner than the libby though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Girl Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 You're killing me. I can't drive to Shreveport to buy glass!!!! Come on down girlie, we'll hit the boats while you're here... LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 I got a semi-curve in J223, but was hidden with the next layer that I did.You don't use it as a one-pour in this container? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crying Moon Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I use the J223 in a 8oz. status, and no matter how cool I pour, or how slow my cool down, I always need a repour. I like my tops nice and flat, and repouring has been the only way to achieve this. I even have to repour my 6oz. tins. At first I tried hitting the tops with a heat gun, but it left them looking nasty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 I use the J223 in a 8oz. status, and no matter how cool I pour, or how slow my cool down, I always need a repour. I like my tops nice and flat, and repouring has been the only way to achieve this. I even have to repour my 6oz. tins. At first I tried hitting the tops with a heat gun, but it left them looking nasty.Do you find you need a 2nd pour in the status jars but not some other glass containers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crying Moon Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Do you find you need a 2nd pour in the status jars but not some other glass containers?I've also poured into a 16oz. balmoral, and still need the repour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenniejr Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Do you find you need a 2nd pour in the status jars but not some other glass containers?I use J223 and it seems that the larger jars (16oz; 20oz) I have a dip in the middle. The smaller ones have a flat top. I have tried hotter and cooler pouring temps and it makes no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmejeffd Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I'm using comfort blend in 16 oz mason jars. I pour at about 180 and always get a dip. 2nd pour takes care of it and I get a nice flat top. Maybe I should pour cooler like Grumpy Girl. Thanks for the tip - I was just going by the manufacturers recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 8.5oz Tumbler: J223- Dip---Regardless/Always Harmony 4630- Nice flat top--Regardless/Always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJ~ Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I found out by accident a few years ago that a few grains of vybar can help even out the tops. I was using a preblend that suddenly started leaking fo's and got that little dip about the same time. I had just gotten a whole pallet of it and was ready to pull my hair out. I added extra vybar to stop the fo leaking and a side effect was smoother tops. Too much can have the opposite effect so be careful. Start with about 6-8 grains per pound. I've found this to work on just about every preblend out there but J223 may be a little harder to smooth the tops on. Also pouring in a jar that is much taller than it is wide increases dips as well as cooling too quickly. I always cool mine in the box.It's not unheard of for a wax company to tweak our blends if the additives get too expensive...keeps us on our toes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Easy solution. :smiley2: You pour the candle higher than u want it to look like when its finished.Then when it cools, you blast it with the heat gun. Very simple. DO not cut the wicks down until you use the heat gun on the candle.Then u have straight, even tops. Nothing leaves my house with my label on it that is not completely flat! Not even a votive. That makes me crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Not to hijack here, but do you think that the heat gun changes the color of the wax? Even slightly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Not to hijack here, but do you think that the heat gun changes the color of the wax? Even slightly?It can- with reds, purples and dark blue. I use soy, so I usually heat gun all my candles because I am so anal about the flat tops. After they cool the color usually comes back to what is was to begin with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Thanks for all the responses.I'm asking because I've been designing a one-pour blend to use in status jars and tumblers (straight sides, thick bottom) and wondering what level of performance I can realistically get. I can aim for a true one pour if it's practical, but if I'm gonna need a second pour regardless then maybe I can just design the blend for maximum adhesion instead.If I'm reading this correctly, some blends don't pour flat in these containers but others pour flat as a pancake?What I'm seeing so far (pouring without a wick) is a flat surface about 2/3 of the way across but a dimple in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelaVA Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I get a very slight dip in my status jars with J50. It is not noticable enough for me to bother fixing it either with a second pour or a heat gun. I just leave it alone. None of my customers notice anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gypsyjen Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Hey Top, good luck with your experiment! Hope it works out for ya. If so, maybe you can patent it and make big $$$. :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizbizzyb Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Thanks for all the responses.I'm asking because I've been designing a one-pour blend to use in status jars and tumblers (straight sides, thick bottom) and wondering what level of performance I can realistically get. I can aim for a true one pour if it's practical, but if I'm gonna need a second pour regardless then maybe I can just design the blend for maximum adhesion instead.If I'm reading this correctly, some blends don't pour flat in these containers but others pour flat as a pancake?What I'm seeing so far (pouring without a wick) is a flat surface about 2/3 of the way across but a dimple in the middle.When I read your question, I figured it had to be more to it. Good luck. Personally, I would rather have a blend with good adhesion (very minimal wet spots) and have to do a repour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 When I read your question, I figured it had to be more to it. Good luck. Personally, I would rather have a blend with good adhesion (very minimal wet spots) and have to do a repourLOL, you have me figured out to that extent.The low-shrink blend isn't hard. I already have one that looks good, adheres like a mofo, burns and throws well. I should just be satisfied, but I'm compelled to take it one more step. Maybe I can get it to pour flat and adhere well too.For this version, veggie ingredients are against the rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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