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6006 w/ 12oz Salsa Jar (3.5" diam) Yet another wick question


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So just like it says, I'm using 6006 wax with FO of 8%.

Jar is 12oz Salsa jar with a diameter of 3.5"

 

I've been using an ECO 6 with fairly good results and a GREAT hot throw, but it does get some mushrooming and of course soot on the jar rim. 

 

Just curious as to what others use in this size?

 

I'm currently starting to test multiple types (HTP, CD, Premier 700's) and sizes but figured I'd try to cheat by asking the peers lol

 

Thanks in advance!

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11 hours ago, TallTayl said:

@bfroberts usually recommends the wick chart from candlescience.  Some 6006 batches may vary, but it should be a decent start.


 

i’d be inclined to use less FO with that combo to reduce carbon heading and soot.

 

 

I've looked up all the charts, candlescience specifically recommends an ECO 10 which I'm under. PXL_20220125_131248575.thumb.jpg.e61dad8f0e76ad02496da5308d5a81c2.jpgPXL_20220125_131332922_MP.thumb.jpg.d9d4068138feb120c330a48fba161872.jpg

Here's images about 3 hours into my 4th 4hr burn. 

 

 

 

 

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The pics are very helpful to troubleshoot your issue.  Thank you. Take inside diameter measurements, then factor in if the container has any type of neck or feature that will build heat convection. 

 

Some FO needs much less wick.  That appears to also be a contributing factor in your candle.

 

The CS guide is a starting point. Up/down a size or two is common. your lot of 6006 might  be easier to burn than the test lot used at CandleScience at the time. All wax lots vary to some degree between manufacturing lots. 
 

I would wick down and test again. If that also is too much wick, wick down again or change wick e

series. You want the second half of the candle to continue to burn safely. The container needs to remain under 175*F at all times during a burn to comply with ASTM candle safety guidelines.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, SRez said:

I have had success with 6% or 7% with CDN and Premier.  The ECO's haven't worked that great for me as of yet.  

ECO, in my experiences, if even slightly over wicked tend to get exceedingly hot the longer they burn. If not perfectly trimmed before lighting, a wee bit too big ECO accelerates quickly, and rarely passes the powerburn stage of testing. 
 

they’re helpful to have around for those odd FO combos that just don’t want to burn though! When every other wick sniffs itself out, eco sometimes comes to the rescue. 

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I haven’t used 6006 in a while but when I did I found Eco wicks to be a great fit.  But the size has to be right because even 1 size too large can be ugly. I’m not overly familiar with that jar but based on the diameter I would have started with Eco 8. It’s important to note that 6006 continues to harden for a long time. A burn after a long cure is very different than the burn of a freshly poured candle.  Curing also improves the burn and results in significantly less mushrooming and soot.

 

If you aren’t curing a couple of weeks prior to testing, I’d recommend holding off and allowing the candle more time to settle in.  If you have cured sufficiently, I’d try lowering the FO load before trying a different wick.

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2 hours ago, bfroberts said:

I haven’t used 6006 in a while but when I did I found Eco wicks to be a great fit.  But the size has to be right because even 1 size too large can be ugly. I’m not overly familiar with that jar but based on the diameter I would have started with Eco 8. It’s important to note that 6006 continues to harden for a long time. A burn after a long cure is very different than the burn of a freshly poured candle.  Curing also improves the burn and results in significantly less mushrooming and soot.

With the mushrooming I'm getting now though wouldn't moving up to an 8 from a 6 be worse?  And this candle has cured over 2 weeks BTW, now, some others I'm getting ready to are only a few days though. 

 

As for the fragrance oil shouldn't the 8% be safe though, or is it just the size of the candle that's giving me such an effect? 

Of course dropping to 7% also makes me worry about hot throw. 

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7 hours ago, John W said:

With the mushrooming I'm getting now though wouldn't moving up to an 8 from a 6 be worse?  And this candle has cured over 2 weeks BTW, now, some others I'm getting ready to are only a few days though. 

 

As for the fragrance oil shouldn't the 8% be safe though, or is it just the size of the candle that's giving me such an effect? 

Of course dropping to 7% also makes me worry about hot throw. 

I haven’t used 6006 in a good while. I’ve heard that some of the newer batches are different so what you have may very well not burn the way I’m used to. Yes, I would think 8% would be fine unless it’s one of those FOs for which wicking down is necessary. Most all of my experience is based on using 6%, and any time I’ve tried to significantly increase FO load, all I’ve achieved is creating more soot and mushrooms, so I do think it’s worth consideration.

 

If you’re fully cured and it’s burning as pictured at 3 or so hours, I would definitely try a smaller wick or a different series altogether. If you go with a different series I’d suggest CD. I just mentioned an Eco 8 because that’s what would typically work for me in a jar of that diameter. Looks like there’s a good chance the newer 6006 is just different, which would also explain CS recommendations. They were pretty accurate when I was using 6006, but in this craft nothing ever stays the same, unfortunately. Good luck!

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Thanks everyone!  I've got test samples for every series except LX so I'm just going to do an all out everything test.  I'll post results in the forum I saw marked for wick testing.

 

Thanks again for the thoughts and ideas! 

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5 minutes ago, John W said:

Thanks everyone!  I've got test samples for every series except LX so I'm just going to do an all out everything test.  I'll post results in the forum I saw marked for wick testing.

 

Thanks again for the thoughts and ideas! 

Forgot to mention that I also had success with HTP.  

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I did see the pan test one but not sure how much exactly it would apply since with the jar being larger part of it probably won't reach a full melt pull till second burn when the the jar heats up too, at least that's my thinking... Which is certainly not always correct! 

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32 minutes ago, John W said:

I did see the pan test one but not sure how much exactly it would apply since with the jar being larger part of it probably won't reach a full melt pull till second burn when the the jar heats up too, at least that's my thinking... Which is certainly not always correct! 

Once I began to ignore the full melt pool fallacy chandling became much more successful. Not sure who decided a full melt pool was the goal, but I wish they would go back and recant that and save people a lot of grief.

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