I will use anything or custom blend anything......

[Candybee]

On 10/29/2021 at 10:25 PM, moonshine said:

For container palm?

9 ounce jar I would start with a RRD 37

eco I’m not sure but maybe a 4 for a 9 ounce jar 

CW has a pretty good wick chart to get you started. I'd go with a RRD34-37 with that size jar. Then adjust from there. Smaller size wicks tend to work better with palm.

 

When I heard that CS was discontinuing the CSN wicks I bought a buttload of CSN 9's to last me for several years for the 12oz jars I use. If you keep researching there was mention some time ago on this forum about another supplier that carries CSN wicks but don't remember who.

 

I have used RRD wicks in palm before. Both RRD and CSN were made for palm by WEDO so they both work. I just preferred CSN. Once my CSN's run out I plan to use RRD.

 

As I mentioned, test which wick burns the best, then test the next smaller size. For the 9-12oz jars I think the RRD 34 is what I would start with, then even test the next smaller size just to be sure. I found the smaller the better wick burn with palm. You get a more even burn, less sooting, a shorter flame, without compromizing candle quality. Oh, and no more 6% FO load. GO DOWN!! Trust me, with palm, less is definitely more! I have been working with it for years and find it really shines when you let the wax do its work without overloading on wick size or fragrance.

 

I still buy glass glow from C&S cause they are on the east coast.

 

I also used CW's container palm and have to say if you are looking for consistency in wax they are the best hands down. No contest. However, their container palm is similar to crystal or snowflake palm and has a less elegant crystal patterns than glass glow. This is why I stick with glass glow, the crystalization is very elegant compared to to container palms. That aside, CW's container palm behaves like glass glow in every way. You get outstanding HT, lovely glow when burning, and a nice clean looking jar as the wax is fully consumed as the candle burns its way to the end.

[Candybee]

Wanted to add one more thing... I was initially worried about the CT with palm when I first started out working with it. I was worried customers would just think meh... and move on. But that has not been the case at all. Customers tell me how strong my candles smell, strong enough they can smell them before they open. Plus, when I am standing several feet away I can always smell the candle when a customer opens a jar to sniff. So no more worries about CT. There is definitely enough there for customer interest and no one, not one single person, has said anything about a weak CT. This on top of the fact that I lowered my FO load from 6 to 5% more than 3 yrs ago. With the lower FO load the candles actually smell stronger when burning, create even less soot, burn even cleaner, have a better (shorter & more stable) flame height, produce less if any mushrooming, last longer, and cost slightly less to make. A real win-win for me!  

Edited November 1, 2021 by Candybee

[ErronB]

23 hours ago, Candybee said:

Wanted to add one more thing... I was initially worried about the CT with palm when I first started out working with it. I was worried customers would just think meh... and move on. But that has not been the case at all. Customers tell me how strong my candles smell, strong enough they can smell them before they open. Plus, when I am standing several feet away I can always smell the candle when a customer opens a jar to sniff. So no more worries about CT. There is definitely enough there for customer interest and no one, not one single person, has said anything about a weak CT. This on top of the fact that I lowered my FO load from 6 to 5% more than 3 yrs ago. With the lower FO load the candles actually smell stronger when burning, create even less soot, burn even cleaner, have a better (shorter & more stable) flame height, produce less if any mushrooming, last longer, and cost slightly less to make. A real win-win for me!  

 

Can you elaborate a bit on getting hot throw with Glass Glow? I've tried everything to get a good hot throw and only about 1 in 10 fragrances want to give anything. The cold throw is banging, super strong, but hot throw non existent.

 

I usually add FO at 200, I've tried 3%-6%, CSN and CD wicks.

[Candybee]

1 hour ago, ErronB said:

 

Can you elaborate a bit on getting hot throw with Glass Glow? I've tried everything to get a good hot throw and only about 1 in 10 fragrances want to give anything. The cold throw is banging, super strong, but hot throw non existent.

 

I usually add FO at 200, I've tried 3%-6%, CSN and CD wicks.

 

Don't have any ideas why you are getting a poor HT and great CT. I get the exact opposite. Hot throw is excellent and cold throw is good but a bit more subtle. I use 5% FO load, heat wax to 210, and add FO just after I stir in my color chip. I want to make sure the color chip is fully incorporated prior to adding FO. But my pour pot I keep on a hot plate at 300 degrees to be sure to keep the wax hot so I still pour at just over 200-210 degrees. Also, I always let the candles cure for a week.

 

Just about any FO I try I get a good HT. I also use the smaller size wick that burns well in the CSN series. I use a size CSN 9 for my 12oz SS jars.

 

One other thing you could try. Never burn a candle the same day you made them or even the next day. I find I tend to get candlenose. Also, sometimes if you have been sitting in the same room with a candle for a while, get up and go outside for a few minutes. Come back inside and you should be able to smell it. Again, candlenose at work here.

 

Currently I get my glass glow at C&S but my last purchase was from Lonestar when C&S ran out of stock. 

Edited November 2, 2021 by Candybee

[lovelyscents]

5 minutes ago, Candybee said:

 

Don't have any ideas why you are getting a poor HT and great CT. I get the exact opposite. Hot throw is excellent and cold throw is good but a bit more subtle. I use 5% FO load, heat wax to 210, and add FO just after I stir in my color chip. I want to make sure the color chip is fully incorporated prior to adding FO. But my pour pot I keep on a hot plate at 300 degrees to be sure to keep the wax hot so I still pour at just over 200-210 degrees. Also, I always let the candles cure for a week.

 

Just about any FO I try I get a good HT. I also use the smaller size wick that burns well in the CSN series. I use a size CSN 9 for my 12oz SS jars.

 

One other thing you could try. Never burn a candle the same day you made them or even the next day. I find I tend to get candlenose. Also, sometimes if you have been sitting in the same room with a candle for a while, get up and go outside for a few minutes. Come back inside and you should be able to smell it. Again, candlenose at work here.

 

Currently I get my glass glow at C&S but my last purchase was from Lonestar when C&S ran out of stock. 

You are likely using quality oils as well.  Where do you like to purchase from?

[Candybee]

I use mostly FOs from Fillmore, FB, C&S, JS, and Keystone.

 

I get a couple others from RE and CS but am looking to replace those due to either price, shipping costs, or reformulations not working. I love RE FOs but the shipping kills me especially since I use maybe one or two so it isn't cost effective to make smaller purchases. And too many of CS oils have changed so much they no longer smell or perform the same.

[Sarah S]

@lovelyscents, you know what i am going to say... go back to the CW waxes! I am still in love with the CBL125 and I love their Palm1 as well. Their blends are very consistent. My only complaint is that they are often out of stock these days, but who isn't?

I use oils from CW, Flaming Candle, and NG with great success in Palm. Like @Candybee, my CT is almost overpowering before the wick is even lit. I find Palm does best with florals, fruits, earthy blends and ocean type scents. And the typical "clean" types.

CBL125 throws anything. But put a bakery scent from Indiana Candle Supply in it and be ready to die from rapture!

I still have a stash of CSNs to use with the palm. I will cry when it's gone.

I use HTPs with the 125.

[Candybee]

21 hours ago, Sarah S said:

@lovelyscents, you know what i am going to say... go back to the CW waxes! I am still in love with the CBL125 and I love their Palm1 as well. Their blends are very consistent. My only complaint is that they are often out of stock these days, but who isn't?

I use oils from CW, Flaming Candle, and NG with great success in Palm. Like @Candybee, my CT is almost overpowering before the wick is even lit. I find Palm does best with florals, fruits, earthy blends and ocean type scents. And the typical "clean" types.

CBL125 throws anything. But put a bakery scent from Indiana Candle Supply in it and be ready to die from rapture!

I still have a stash of CSNs to use with the palm. I will cry when it's gone.

I use HTPs with the 125.

 

Me too! When I found out the CSNs were going OOS at CS forever I ordered enough to last me for the next 5 yrs for my jars I use.

[ErronB]

On 11/12/2021 at 8:59 PM, Sarah S said:

@lovelyscents, you know what i am going to say... go back to the CW waxes! I am still in love with the CBL125 and I love their Palm1 as well. Their blends are very consistent. My only complaint is that they are often out of stock these days, but who isn't?

I use oils from CW, Flaming Candle, and NG with great success in Palm. Like @Candybee, my CT is almost overpowering before the wick is even lit. I find Palm does best with florals, fruits, earthy blends and ocean type scents. And the typical "clean" types.

CBL125 throws anything. But put a bakery scent from Indiana Candle Supply in it and be ready to die from rapture!

I still have a stash of CSNs to use with the palm. I will cry when it's gone.

I use HTPs with the 125.

I used HTP with the 125 too, but my problem was finding a wick between 93 and 104, I could never get one to burn right like the HTP’s.