beginner problems for IGI 6006 with scent throw

[BeautifullyReborn]

hi... i just began this new Candle Making business and before i begin to start selling products i want to make sure im selling the best product i can and build a good name and reputation... So i am having a couple problems... ill begin with the scent throw... it doesn't seem to have a strong scent if any scent... and ive been doing  alot of research as to why. I chose the IGI 6006 because from what i researched it was the best for texture and scent throw. I was thinking maybe its because of the "wooden wick..." i chose the wooden wick because i figured it would work with the 8oz tin can... or maybe its because when i was adding the LAVENDER Essential Oil i kept heating it, then taking it off the stove, then putting it back on the stove trying to add the Essential oil at the right temperature... i put the Essential oil in at 165 degrees... i also put 3 oz of  Essential oil in 2 1/2 lbs of wax which is a little less the 10% recommended... i then poured into container at 145 degrees... 

If i had to guess im thinking i lost the scent while heating and cooling trying to get it at right temperature to throw.. But i would LOVE some help and suggestions as to how and what i should do to get the best candles with the best scent throw and long lasting. Im dedicated and focused, reading and doing as much as i can to get through the process. I've givin it a week time to cure to test out the candle. But that takes a little to long for my likeing. So im now doing a couple Test and Trials recording the different results at which temperature i put in the oils and throw into the containers for the best result

 

[bfroberts]

Just a few thoughts...

-6006 doesn’t need that much FO. 6-7% is all you need. More isn’t better and can create problems.

-Heat to 185-190 and add FO.

-6006 needs to cure. No matter what you might have heard, it needs to cure several days to get a good burn.  
-I don’t use wood wicks so I can’t speak to that. But I do know the Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for 6006. 
-If you use 6-7% FO, and use the recommended wick, and cure at least a week and still aren’t getting a good throw, the FO is probably a dud. Some just are.
 

[bfroberts]

And one last thing....don’t believe anything you read on FB or Reddit or watch on YouTube. 99% of it is just wrong.

[NightLight]

Wooden wicks do not seem to be consistent.

Fragrance choices are key. Some do well in soy, some paraffin, some in blend.

You have to test EACH fragrance.

Adding more fragrance to a candle wax doesn’t guarantee stronger throw and can cause all kinds of problems.

 

Candle making takes a LONG time to learn.

Candles are complex systems.

Type of wax, wick type, fragrance choice, containers and technique.

Every additive requires testing. 

 

 

Take detailed notes, and read the forum threads.

And my best suggestion, is to go slow to master.

 

 

 

And if you’re going to sell make sure you have insurance!

[Kevin Fischer]

21 hours ago, bfroberts said:

And one last thing....don’t believe anything you read on FB or Reddit or watch on YouTube. 99% of it is just wrong.

Agreed.

[NightLight]

Ok from the photo you are not using ESSENTIAL oil which is NATURAL. That looks like a FRAGRANCE OIL which is SYNTHETIC. Different! That oil should be added at 180 degrees. You are adding your fragrance at too low a temp.

That fragrance oil may not be strong in candles. Some are and some are not. Test!

[TallTayl]

Looks like a couple of things going on...

tins, you will find, are very difficult to get hot throw that competes early in a burn with glass jars.  The proportion of the tin (wider than tall) takes a while to build strong air current needed to really “throw” fragrance into the air.  Most people overfill tins, which limits the “chimney” effect of a slight neck to a container. 
 

Wooden wicks can be troubling since the few sizes offered by resellers easily locks us into either too hot or not hot enough. There’s a sweet spot with every wax/fo/container to throw well. 
 

I use essential oils and fragrance oils.  I blend ALL at the same temps based on the wax needs. For example, palm and palm blends along with coconut blends need to exceed 200*F to work properly. Not once have I noticed any deficiency of fragrance at those temps. Not to mention palm uses 6% or less of FO yet throws better than almost all soy. I am not saying heat and hold wax with fragrance for extended periods during manufacture, but rather the normal time it takes to add FO and stir to homogenize is a longer window than most people have been led to believe.
 

That bottle pictured appears to be fragrance oil.  It was designed to withstand manufacturing at normal (high) temps.  if all FO needed to be stirred in at different temps they would not be used in manufacturing for very long.  Anyone who need to make hundreds or thousands of candles would never do that.  Time is money. 
 

cure time is very important. For all waxes.  It takes time for the components to meld and settle into their crystal formation. Each wax is slightly different with paraffin taking the “least” to fully cool and harden in the middle. Palm is quick, but still is more “realistic” of the final form after a few days.  If it has even a small % of soy the essential cure time is longer. Only experience will prove how long for each chandler.

 

the elephant in the room is that soy alone or in blends is not the works greatest wax for hot throw. It has some usefulness to alter undesirable burn characteristics of other waxes, but the home candle maker industry claim that soy is best is, well, very debatable.