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over wicking question


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would this be considered over wicking or improper burn or both:

8oz jelly, after 3 hours burn is great, glass is touchable, not too hot.

after burning for 6 hours very deep mp, glass is very hot ( 200 degrees).

So is this over wicking or just improper burning or both?

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Definitely over wicked. When I test, I power burn all my containers 8 or 9 hours cause that's what my customers do all the time. My melt pool is usually 1/4 deep and the glass is pretty warm, but manageable.

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I'd judge by what you see at 3 or 4 hours. Your instructions on the candle should recommend not burning for more than that. While it's nice to see what a power burn does, I don't think you should wick for that. You may be over-wicked but maybe not. I've seen plenty of BBW that look as you describe when they have been burned all day in the store.

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I'd judge by what you see at 3 or 4 hours. Your instructions on the candle should recommend not burning for more than that. While it's nice to see what a power burn does, I don't think you should wick for that. You may be over-wicked but maybe not. I've seen plenty of BBW that look as you describe when they have been burned all day in the store.

You can put all the instructions you want on a candle, but customers are gonna power burn whether it's good for the candle or not. Therefore, you should always be wick testing for those types of customers!! If you don't, it's gonna be your insurance being used when their container breaks because it got too hot and they have a fire. I always test 2 separate containers at a time with the same wick; one, burned only 3-4 hours at a time and the other power burning 6-9 hours at a time. The same wick will work for both with the only difference being the shorter burned candle may take 4 burns to clean the sides and the power burn may clean the sides after 3 burns. You HAVE to test for both types of burns or you're not doing your testing job properly! :cool2:

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I know what you are saying and do power burn tests but you can't wick for that. You have to wick for a normal burn and see how candle performs in those other situations (longer burns).

You most certainly can and should wick for power burns. If a wick works for a power burned candle it WILL work for a normal burn. I don't know where you are getting your logic from, but it's very skewed and misinformed!! :confused:

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I test both ways as well but what I find with my jar and my wax is this:

If I use a CD10 and burn it the normal 3 to 4 hours it leaves a horrendous amount of film and chunks in the glass- if I power burn it it cleans up very nice without getting too hot although it does get hot

If I use a CD12 or CDN12 in that FO and burn it the normal 3 to 4 hours it's perfect but then with a power burn it gets very hot - like yanks candles almost always do

If I sell the CD10 they won't buy again- it's ugly and looks like an elementary kid made them IF they burn them the proper way with the proper times

What is opinions on that? And yes I have tried other wicks and none work even close to the CD and CDN series with my formula/jar

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Didn't I read somewhere there is a maximum temp that is allowed. I thought I read 175 degrees or around there. but is that burning according to the 3-4 hour burn rule? Also at what temp does glass break?

Moonshine, I agree. If people actually burn according to directions, using a smaller wick, may not get those customers back.

I have never really power burned a yankee candle, but if anyone has, have you ever took the temp of the glass?

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I do the 1" per hour rule. Once they pass that, then I do a power burn to make sure they pass that. If not, it is back to square one.

My DIL proved that only going by the 1" per hour rule, and power burns not exceptionally long can result in a cracked, overheated candle. She lit it up (as she always does) and let the candle burn. The wick eventually fell over from the deep MP, causing the side of the jar to have etched black in it as well as a crack.

She has cracked Slatkin glass, so while they seem to be wicked to achieve a full MP early for good HT, it could not withstand her power burning.

We have zero control how our candles are burned once they leave our hands and IMO, it is my responsibility to do everything I can to make sure the power burners out there aren't going to have a fire caused by one of my candles.

Now I power burn just like a customer might, by lighting the candle and just letting it burn away....all day long.

Also changed the prime on my wicks to very high MP from CW so they can withstand the heat (and not fall over) from a possible deep MP even though I wick to keep that from happening, I realized it is still possible.

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On football Saturdays we are bad to light one of my candles and forget about it. The end of the day I put the candle out and the lid back on and the glass is warm. It has fragranced the house all day long and there is a little hang up but not much. I've been using this wax for about 7 years and I know it inside and out. Wicking has become pretty routine with the exception of certain heavy fragrances that require a wick up. They aren't perfect but I'm comfortable that they are safe. I have a totally different viewpoint about my candles than the consumer. They sometimes have unrealistic expectations of what a candle should do but they should expect the candle to be safe. Always err on the side of caution and never assume anything that the average brain dead consumer does with your product these days.

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