Terry Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Hi,Poured crystalizing palm container wax in 12 oz status jars as follows:Peak Juicy Pineapple thin layer on top, Peak Georgia Peach on bottom CSN 11R/E Toasted MM on top Peak Gingerbread Cookies on bottom CD 10 wickSame as above only with a CD 12 wickIf you will bear with me, I always seem to have issues getting the pictures in the order I want them, LOL...Pix #1 top of the CD 12Pix #3 top of the CD 10Pix #2 top of the CSN 11 (unprimed wick, this is what I had on hand at this time)Pix #4 CD 10, CSN 11, CD 12 Pix #5 CSN 11, CD 10, CD 12Burning now for about 2-1/4 hours first time. Poured in layers as I read this will reduce/eliminate air pockets along with wrecking the tops on the bottom and middle layers. You can see if you look closely that I have a dividing line between the middle and top layer on all three but it is noticable even when using the same color. Right after I poured the top layer I hit the jar (only where pouring) with the heat gun and covered with a cardboard square. Is there anything I can do so the middle and top layers blend better when using the same color? Also what about using unprimed wick in container candles? Any pros or cons? Would also welcome any other opinions..tia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 See where you bumped the one jar while pouring-- you have a slight 'blur' effect. That's the trick. Pour your first layer. Pick up the jar and swirl the molten wax around the inside of the jar holding it at a slight angle. This will leave wax on the sides of your candle above your pour line. Then when you pour your next layer you won't have a defined line but but that blurred effect. It works nicely if you use colors that offset each other.As for your wicks, like any candle you need to finish burning all the way to the bottom. Specifically palm container waxes burn different than other waxes.Ist burn you typically have a thin top layer as the candle starts burning below the top pour line. With palm the object is having a slight wax build on the sides to promote the glow as it burns effectively. The second half of the candle the sides will start to catch up and burn down. You should have most to all of the side wax burned down but only at the very end of the candle. Again you want the sides there for the glow to the end.It takes a little practice wicking palm container waxes but they are worth it. IMO they are one of the most beautiful candles with their glow and gorgeous crystal patterns.BTW-- I use CW crystal container palm and CSN wicks. RRD wicks also work great as a backup wick but leave a bit more mushroom than I want.Haven't tried CDs. I stuck with CSNs because they were specifically commissioned for use in glow palm wax. Crystal container and glow palm are so very much alike in burn that the CSNs work beautifully in them. However, they create a 'tall' flame so you need to always test the next smaller size wick to find the one that works best in your jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 Candybee, Thank you for your tips and in-depth response. I agree that palm wax makes a beautiful candle so I will continue to work on perfecting...just need to get some different sizes of CSN wicks for testing! -Terry :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcbrook Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I use Candlewic's palm wax. RRDs are my first go to wick. If those don't work I go to CSN. I have found a few stubborn FOs that CDs seem to do okay with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Have you tried flipping the jar instead of pouring layers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 If you decide to use CSN's from CS use their wick guide. I pick the next smallest wick to the one they recommend. Eg.; if the guide says use a CSN14 go with a CSN12, if it says CSN12 go with a CSN9. Works every time!ChandlerWicks is right. You can flip the candle as it cools to allow air pockets to go to the bottom of the jar where they will not be a problem. Palm is notorious for air pockets. Haven't tried the layering because I only do one pours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 These are some great tips ladies, many thanks for responding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 You asked about unprimed wicks. I've used unprimed wicks a lot. The first burn will be a little funky, but after that the wicks seem to do fine. I've also been known to take a few feet of wick off a roll and drop it in the presto with the wax for a couple of minutes until the air foams out of the center and it saturates. The hotter the better, but just work with your normal temperatures. Once in a while I might use some high temp microcrystalline wax to prime. Quite frankly, I don't notice much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Thanks Eric, didn't think I was going to get any more responses on this thread, LOL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkz33 Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Hi..I also have been playing with palm wax...(container) I tried to play with making the tarts/melts now and find that the palm container does not come out of the molds for the melts ;-( I have a case of the container palm to play with and wanted to know if any way to use this for molded tarts and have it come out of the molds? Mix with soy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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