fredron

I'd like to hear from anyone using Nature's Garden Joy Wax. I'm particularly interested in how clean it burns, and it's ability to have intense colors. My candles are known for the variety of colors we use, and their intensity, but I'm having trouble with J-50 wax lately. Something is different. I'm getting soot I never got in the past, and in some batches, the wax is crackling in the pot like french fry oil when you add the french fries. My test burns are sooting heavily, which I've never had before. Anyway I'd like any info anyone has on the on the Joy wax. Thanks for the help. Fredron

Way back when, I used a bubble level built into a combination square sitting on top of the mold to level them. I used small pieces of cardboard from a tablet back to place under one side of the mold till I got them level. That worked fine, but I had to level each one each time. So I got smart and totally leveled the table, then each mold by filing one leg or the other till they were all level. Now every mold is automatically level. Just to be sure, I check one once in a while, but they've stayed good. You can buy a cheap combination square with a bubble level at Walmart or hardware store for a couple dollars. They come in handy all around the house. Fredron

Well, I poured my first batch of Black and Gold candles. You may remember I was soliciting suggestions for the fragrances. The candles turned out great, and I expect to be busy for a while, but I'm not thrilled with the black color. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get a really black black? Mine look like an asphalt grey, and I used a heavy loading of dye. Fredron

I've had som problems using Word to produce true colors too. I now use a program called Label Factory Deluxe. I found it at Best Buy. It works beautifully. All of Avery's label sizes are in the memory, and creating your own design is pretty easy. Colors transfer perfectly to my 5440. It was pretty cheap, too as I recall. I think I spent $39.00 for it.

There should be a function on your printer to clean the print heads. Read your manual to figure out how, then clean them a couple times & print again. If you don't print in color every day, the heads can dry out & colors get funky. Sometimes it takes several trys to get them clean. If that doesn't do it, try new cartridges. If that doesn't work, contact the HP on the internet. There will be a troubleshooting section and usually you can get help. HP is very helpful if you ask the right questions. I have a 5440, and the colors are perfect. I have a Lexmark 1150 that's only good on black and white-colors suck. What program are you using to create the labels? Not all programs transfer color well to the printer. Good luck.

An even better pot than a Presto is a Daisey. They're not particularly easy to find, but are larger, so they hold more wax. Look for a Daisey crock pot/deep fryer. The crock pot lifts out & whats left is a larger version of the Presto pot. I like the control unit much better also, since it's one piece and doesn't come apart. I have 2 of the Daiseys & 2 of the Prestos, all with spigots. Trust me the Daisey is better. Fredron

Thanks to all. I think I'll stick with one fragrance, rather than blend, but use 2 colors. I don't think I'll use a food fragrance, I prefer something outdoorsy. Good luck to all your teams. I'll send my condolences after the Steelers win the superbowl again. Thanks again, Fredron

I pictured this as a layered candle of black and gold, and it could be a single fragrance or two fragrances. I'm open for suggestions. Fredron

I have a couple questions, related to 1 topic. It's football season, and I'm trying to come up with a candle for our Super Bowl Champion Steelers for this year. So what fragrance would you folks recommend for them, and does anyone have a formula for making a very black black? The fragrance I thought of was banana licorice, but my wife promptly threw up. I guess banana asphalt is also out. Anybody have a very manly type fragrance they'd like to share? Thanks

We don't make many, but I love making them. I also love the bubbles. We stick to only a few fragrances and colors, but they're always well received. Fredron

Try warming your molds. I use a heat gun, and get them warm, nad never have a problem with bubbling. Don't know what wax you're using, but pouring too hot can cause trouble, evne into a warm mold. Fredron

Never had a dropper top go bad-used them from day one, but the top of the bottle does get to be a mess. Not sure if dyes would evaporate onr not. I suspect some component in there would. Fredron

What wax do you use that sticks unscented? I use 6228 and it doesn't stick no matter how I abuse it. Fredron

We've used our Daizey pot for years and never had any problem at all. I have 2 of the Daizey and 2 of the Presto. I prefer the Daizey because of the control unit. I've added spigots to 2 of them, and will eventually add them to the others also. Buy a good candy making thermometer & melt to your heart's content. Fredron

Let them set up for 24 hours. They will perform better if they're well set. Fredron

Don't know about the J223, but I have noticed a big difference in the latest batch of J50. It sizzles as it melts-sounds like deep frying french fries. It appears different as it is stirred also. No appreciable difference in scent throw, but the surface of the poured candle sometimes has little air bubbles, which I have to heat with a hear gun.

Don't know if it's available to you, but I've used Astor 6228 for several years in all types of pillars. I make chunk candles also, and it works well there too. I get a smooth pillar, with great scent throw, hot and cold. Fredron Waxes 'n Wicks Lighting the world one candle at a time.

Actually, it isn't already on the market. The jiffy wicker is not sturdy enough to pull the wick tight enough to squeeze the rubber hard enough to seal the wick. I had one, and bent it the first time I tried it. The Jiffy wicker is used with a sealing compound around the base of the wick, not a rubber seal. I haven't had a leak since I started using this system.

Some time ago, a discussion was held with regard to a method for sealing the wick when pouring pillars. It involves rubber pads being pulled tight around the wick, thus sealing it. A photo was shown of the bottom of the mold, but not the top. I've attached a photo of my method for both ends, which should clarify the method. Also if anyone is interested, and will contact me, I can provide a kit which is shown in one of the attached photos. Fredron Waxes 'n Wicks Lighting the world one candle at a time.

The recommendations I've seen for Crisco are for much higher amounts-as much as 2 level tablespoons/lb. Top was right, the rationale was to have it be a parasoy blend, and reduce shrinkage. I started with it, because my FO suppliers suggested it. I tried adding soy flakes for a while instead, but got away from that because I didn't care for the inconsistant results I got, so I'm back to the Crisco. I don't really know if it does anything, but my customers love our candles, so why argue with success? Fredron Waxes 'n Wicks Lighting the world one candle at a time.

The label looks fine, but if it were me, I would find a way to get the phone number or address on it. They can't buy from you if they can't find you. Fredron Waxes 'n Wicks Lighting the world one candle at a time

I've been doing something similar for years. Any kind of knot will do, as long as it can't get through the hole in the wick clip. I use a small square of steel with a hole in it, but the idea is the same. Then after the candle is set up, I use a razor knife and cut the knot off. Just a hint, if you dip the wick in the melting wax before tying the knot in it, it makes it easier to put it through the hole in the rubber. It is also then waxed for burning the candle. Fredron Waxes 'n Wicks Lighting the world one candle at a time.

I use 6228 wax, which is a 145 melt point wax, add FO at 180, and pour at 175, into a mold I warm slightly with a heat gun. When they cool, the tarts just fall out of the mold. I used to have a little problem with surface marks before I started warming the mold, and the heat gun fixed that right now. Your formula sounds right.

1/2 ounce each, by weight, per pound of wax. Just a little better than 6%. With J-50, that's what we've used forever.

I've been using them for some FO. They are very reliable & their stuff that I've used has been good. What else do you need to know? Fredron