Bottlecrafters

Just curious to see what types of chandlers are around.

I have been in sales (not with candles) for 20+ years . I have seen hundreds, if not thousands of "no soliciting" signs. Ignored every one of them, never had a prospect/customer bring up the fact that they have this sign. If someone did bring it up, I think my response to them would be based on their attitude. Blacktie, I think you have the right strategy, anything you can do in front of them is better.

What "no soliciting" signs....:smiley2: "Sorry sir/ma'am I didn't see the sign...but if you have a moment, I would like to show you some of the candles we have available to you wholesale that our customers love!" "Sorry sir/ma'am, I always thought that meant you didn't want sales people soliciting your customers...any way, I stopped by to talk to you about our candles..." Most sales people ignore those signs.

Do you plan on making custom labels for all customers that want it? Seems like a lot of work to change labels for a cold call, and have the possibility of customer not liking the new label. I would take what you have, and tell them you can create a new label for them (if you have ideas drawn out, maybe share with them). They may give you some good feedback. Always have agreements with you. Most times they will say no, but when they say "yes" you need to get them signed up while they are in front of you. If you go back, they may change their mind, not be around, etc. etc. I would also take a few of your top sellers, and gauge their interest from there. Finally be prepared for rejection, and don't stop at one call. They may be busy, slow season, personal issues, etc. You never know what you will get with a customer. You call on them one day, and they will listen to everything you have to say. Call on them a few weeks later, and they have no time, or have no idea who you are. I heard somewhere it takes a person an average of 7 points of contact before they become a customer. (calls, cold calls, advertising, word of mouth, etc.)

Are you talking about cold calling in person, or on the phone?

Click "attachments" (paper clip icon). You can then click "add files", then once uploaded, drag the image to the lower box, then "insert inline" and done. If you are replying to someone, make sure you are in the "go advanced" area, and not "quick relpy"

Candle Cocoon Southwest Candle Supply

No picture to see... At what temp did you pour? How long did you let it cure? I think your FO % is a bit too high...

http://www.candlescience.com/learning/wick-guide.php Don't treat it as "gospel" You might also try a CDN10, which from what I understand may give you a bigger melt pool. Not sure about the heat, etc. I am just now pouring some containers that will have CDN10 to test.

Thanks rjdaines. I am getting full melt pool at about the 2-3 burn session. I will try pouring at a hotter temp to see if that helps any.

Some of the candles I am testing seem to be losing HT as they get down to the lower 1/3 of the glass container. What can I do to prevent this? GB464 CD wicks 6.6% FO Heat 185 Add FO 185 have poured at 155, 145, 135

Thanks Steve, I just ordered some CDN wicks from CC, and they arrived today, plan on testing this soon.

'How tall are your container(s)?

I am about 1/2 to 2/3 into some 3" x 4 1/2" glass containers using CD12 and CD14 wicks with GB464. I twisted the CD wicks to try to get an even burn pool. As I am testing for heat, I can touch 2/3 of the container where the flame is pointing away from, and the container is lukewarm. When I touch the section where the wick is facing, it gets hotter. I can place my hand around that section, and hold it there for 5 or so seconds before it becomes uncomfortable. What would you consider acceptable for this?

I am testing some CD wicks in 3" containers. Depending on FO, I have used CD10-14 with varying degrees of success. I have attached a picture of one container with a CD10, which is on it's 4th 3 hour burn. There is approx 3/8" hang on one side, and it is "stair-stepping down". I have twisted the wick, but this doesn't appear to help the hang. I have heard some here say to burn to the end. If I do this, and it does eventually catch up; lets say at the bottom 1/3", would the customer not be happy with this burn cycle? Would you abandon these type test? How many tests do you give before you know to give up?

Thanks for the info. Where do you find taller (7"+) pre-tabbed LX?

Thanks for the replies, I will try a CD14 and see. What ECO do you think would be a good place to start? ECO10, 12 or 14?

I am trying to wick a glass container that is 3" diam. x 7 1/4" tall. I am using GB464 with 1/15 ratio of FO. CD10 wicks The container burns great for the first 2/3, then the flame becomes smaller, and eventually dies out. When I try CD 12, the flame was too hot after 2 burns, so I abandoned it. Any ideas?

I have a customer that wants me to put a mini artificial orange tree into a recycled glass bottle that has been cut off into a vase. They are going to give these away as a marketing promo. The trees (more like branches) will be 18-24" tall. I need them to be permanently affixed in the vase. I am thinking something like polyurethane, or silicone... I want something that is aesthetically pleasing, and easy to work with (i.e. pour - as I may have to do a few hundred of these). I have seen things like acrylic water, but they are price prohibitive... Anyone have any ideas what might work best, at an affordable price?

Thanks for the replies. I was trying to add some fragrances for men. I read that Mountain Lake is a good one, but maybe not. Do you have a few recommendations of FOs for men that work well with soy?

I am testing a few glass containers with just GB464 (No FO, no adds) to try to get somewhat of a baseline for a wick size. If I get a wick that is burning well, how will adding FO affect this (for that matter, how will dye as well)? Will it burn hotter/cooler, flame larger/smaller, wick up/down, etc...

I am getting ready to order my first big sample order. Here is what I am going to get from Peak: Amish Harvest Creme Brulee Black Canyon Nag Champa Black Raspberry Vanilla Lavender Patchouli Jamaica Me Crazy Apple Jack & Peel Mountain Lake Does this look like a good mix to test? Using 464 Soy

Looks good. just a few observations: 1. Work on your expanding your descriptions. What are the container sizes, etc. 2. Your checkout is not showing as secure (https), some people will not order because of this 3. Your twitter and facebook throw a "page not found" error. 4. Get a logo. You can go to digitalpoint (http://forums.digitalpoint.com/forumdisplay.php?f=94) and run a contest, usually someone will create a good logo for you for under $25. 5. I am confused about the "ready to ship" section. Does that mean these products are ready, but others are not???

I am mathematically challenged at times :smiley2: I am testing a few different size containers. Here is what I am using for a Formula, is this the right way? 16 oz. @ 6% FO 16 x .06 = .96 oz. FO .94 x 16= 15.04 oz. Wax 20 oz. @ 6% FO 20 x .06 = 1.2 oz. FO .94 x 20= 18.8 oz. Wax 24 oz. @ 6% FO 24 x .06 = 1.44 oz. FO .94 x 24= 22.56 oz. wax Is this right? I am trying this, so that I can easily change %FO, and container sizes to get the right mix.

I don't work with those, what diameter are they?