Aimee81

Wow, thank you so so much!!!!

Thank you Stella for that helpful information. To be honest, I must need to be trained all over again on the performance of a candle because for 2 years my Mom has made our candles and I have been so use to our 2 wicked ECO 8's (I switched from 8 to 6 size because of too much soot and mushrooms when she left the business) giving a fmp after about 3 hours and the jar was completely melted side to side. There was no wax build up on the jar. So I think that is why I am not happy with the CD's. If what you are saying is correct, that soy candles should not reach a fmp and have wax buildup on them (which I am 100% sure it is lol) then I need to be completely retrained on candles again if I am going to make a successful candle. I was always under the impression the first burn should create a fmp and leave no wax and the same thing all the way down the candle until it is done. My ECO 6's I am using now seem to work but after 3 hours I get almost a full inch of melting pool. I checked the NGI web site you sent and they stated after 4 hour burn there should be 1/4 or 1/2 fmp. WOW, that is so far off what I have been use to. I guess the scripture is true "The truth shall set you free" lol. Cause I have alot to learn all over again. Question I have: Did I have a stronger scented candle that burned much faster because of my over wicked jars? When I try to fix this overwick problem and don't get a 1 inch mp after 3 hours will I still get a strong scent throw? Because, correct me if I am wrong, the candle gives out a scent based on a scent throw right? Back to my CD's. Here is how my first test burn went CD 22: did 2 burns (appr 3-4 hours each) and did not get a fmp, left 1/2 inch wax all around the sides of the jar. Now, I did cut the wick too short and therefore created a crater melting pool around the wick and it couldn't reach to sides so I scraped out some wax from the sides and tried to even it out again but I don't think it worked. So in all honestly, I may need to try this again. This will be my 3rd candle with CD 22 wick (the first tester had a huge sink hole around the wick and did not burn right at all) CD 20: Lit candle for 4 1/2 hours and there was still 1/4 inch wax build up on sides of jar. I did however light it the next day without realizing it and didn't write down how long it burned (I have so many tester's floating around lol) and I am thinking the candle looks alot better today because there is only a sliver of wax build up on the sides of the jar and it looks as if it melted pretty good. I just lit it this morning so will see how it will do for the 3rd burn. I have to say, the flame is 1 inch high and flickers more than I like, even though it has no mushroom on it. I have just never liked 1 inch flames so maybe I need to get over that because I am in fear of it catching something on fire easier with a huge flame and creating more soot. With all that said, I obviously need to be taught about my candle performance and what I should expect. Glad I am not selling them as a business right now as they are obviously over wicked and burning much faster than a soy candle should. Oh, you mentioned NGI says 12% FO max, on CS web site they state Ecosoya CB 135 is 9% max FO load so I have never gone more than 9%. Sounds like 12% is a waste of expensive FO to me lol. I REALLY REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR HELP WITH THIS STELLA......

WOW, thanks for all that valuable information!

5 lb FO, 100 wicks, 10 lb wax, 10 lb wax, 50 lb wax and shipping is $67.15 (total of 75 pounds) 5 lb FO, 100 wicks, 10 lb wax, 50 lb wax, 50 lb wax and shipping is $82.18 (total of 115 pounds) this is with candlescience yes.

I use Ecosoya CB 135 and trying to place a large order with CS. 5 lb bottle fo, 100 wicks, a couple 10 pound bags of pb wax, excel. The 50 lb is $62.99 and just to add the 50 lb box of wax to my order jumps my shipping $33.00 more So adding more stuff with my order doesn't look like it is saving me anymore money when about $33-$40 is the cost I am finding to ship just a 50 lb box of wax.

HTP 1212 and 1213 I think they were didn't give a full melting pool. Either did CD 20 or CD 22. The CD's did have a mushroom a lot faster than I am use t. Perhaps a CD 24 like you said. Tried with different oils at 9% for both test candles and yet to acheive a fmp like my 2 ECO 6's give.

Have never heard of that. Is it a web site? I know a few other companies I order FO's from carry a Toasted Marshmallow but the reviews aren't so hot.

Help me figure this out please because my tiny brain can't. With shipping for 50 lbs of wax I pay $100. I saw on lonestar web site per pound of wax, you will get 20 oz of volume. I want to figure out the math how much am I paying for my wax per ounce. Please don't laugh at me as this is probably a very simple equation but I am NOT good at math and can't figure it out. Based on lonestar's suggestion that means I would have 1000 oz of wax.

I do carry 26 oz jars ($25.00) and only make them upon request because in this area, customer's do not want to spend that much money on the larger jars and I sell way more 16 oz than 26 oz. I have considered going to mason jars but would have to start the wicking process all over again and that would cost more money and I already have $1500-$2000 in testing and all that jazz. I pay $1.35 per jar with the lid now with Enchated Lights, I buy 12 at a time and would probably save money if I bought more but funds aren't that available lol. I really do appreciate all your help and recommendations and will consider everything you said

Has anyone ever used Toasted Marshmallow from Candles of the Earth? I have for 2 years and it is my #1 best seller....However, a 16 oz bottle is $20 plus $9.15 shipping so I am really wanting to find a duplicate FO and try to save money so I won't have to raise my prices....and I am not at the luxury to buy bulk yet to save money that way with Candles of the Earth. Thanks so much!!

wow, way too early for me to be doing math today...I completely butchered that one LOL. And I homeschool my four boys...oh my

I carry only the 16 oz apothecary jar and 1 oz mini muffin melts. I know you are suppose to double for wholesale and triple for retail but where I live that is not possible. For example, it cost me $6.48 for everything to make a 16 oz jar with the most popular FO I sell (Toasted Marshmallow) and if I triple that for retail my jars would be $25.72!!!! My jars are priced at $17 now and even that is high for the customer's I am sure but I can't give my candles away Just wish I had more money to buy huge bulk so I could charge cheaper for my jars/melts and make money. I had 2 business in the past inquire about wholesale pricing and wanted to sell my candles but I just couldn't because of my high cost. I have since quit making candles to sell as a business and just as a hobby since the cost is just too high for me. (And I have priced around for the cheapest Ecosoya CB 135 wax in 50 lb)

I saw some soy clamshells (no dye) with actual food particles in them (spices, what looked like little broken leaves, etc) and I thought they were so cute so I bought a couple ($3.50 a clamshell). They really looked adorable to me and smelled great! However, after testing them I won't be buying them again because they had almost no scent throw in them at all. Perhaps they needed to cure for a while and the seller wasn't aware of that...I don't know. But they were a new line of soy wax that a local person was selling (owner informed me they just started carrying them) at one of those fancy stores that sell's home decor, jewelry, etc.

The wall plug in warmers NEVER worked for me. I would cut my 1 oz melt in half and there would still be hang up on the sides of my melter. I use Ecosoya CB 135 with no other additives so it is weird to me why my melters never worked (purchased plug in melter from Levine Gifts)

Ecosoya CB 135 wax with melting point of 122.

CD 20 and CD 22

I poured my last batch of candles at 106 and so far 2 of my tester's have NO SINK HOLE!!! Thank God I am testing the CD 22 and CD 20 in an 8 oz apothecary jar (single wick) with 9% FO from Enchanted Lites and the CD 20 did not get a full melting poolafter 4.5 hours, about 1/2 inch left on sides of jar. I blew it out and relit this morning and will see how it does. For the scent throw, it wasn't that strong either..I am assuming because the melting pool was so small. My CD 22 jar after lit got a big mushroom and the flame was dancing around (I trimmed the wick to 1/4 inch before lit) so I blew it out and trimmed the wick again, this time too short. So the candle started to tunnel. This morning I took the CD 22 and leveled out the wax so it isn't tunneled and relit. One thing I noticed about the CD's is even with the wick trimmed they get a mushroom pretty quick and the wick sticks straight up, it is not bend outward. My ECO 6 don't mushroom until half way down the jar and shortly after I light my ECO's the wick is tilted or slanted just a bit and they don't mushroom that bad in the beginning. (I saw on a web site that a good wick will slant or tilt out of the hottest part of the flame, don't know if that is what is going on with my ECO's) I am getting really close to just keeping my ECO 6 (double wick) and deal with the mushroom's that appear on my candle and just have to keep an eye on it and trim off the mushroom so the candle doesn't soot. Keeping my fingers crossed for this CD 22!!! Question: Since apparently my 2.5 hour burn creates too much of a melting pool (see pic above) even tho there is no soot or horrible mushrooms...would a ECO 4 (double wick) possibly do the trick?

How would I cool the candles evenly? I just made some more candles and poured at 106 degrees. All were different FO's and out of all 6 only 1 of the candles looks like it has holes in the top, which I am sure can be smoothed out with a heat gun. I am wondering if it is the FO's that make the top's look smooth or not because all the other top's look beautiful and smooth and no holes. What is really weird is I have never had a sink hole around my wick with my ECO wicks so this is a first for me and I haven't changed anything in past 6 months (meaning pour temps, wax, fo's, etc) I am hoping my next batch of candles to test for 1 wick wont cave in around the wick like my last batch...keeping my fingers crossed.

I am so sorry for my confusion but what company is WSP? My guess would be wholesalesuppliesplus but that would be WSSP. Once again, sorry for not knowing, am new to this web site

I use 4 inch apothecary jars and I double wick, no luck with single wick in this size diameter.

I have tried HTP wicks and CD wicks in my 4 inch diameter apothecary jars single wick and have not had success. I was really hoping to single wick but will have to go back to my ECO 6 double wick. I use Ecosoya CB 135 and mostly CS or NG fragrance oils. The only thing I am not happy with is my ECO's mushroom bad so I have to blow the wick out and trim off the muhsroom and then relight. Would love to find a wick that didn't do this. But the melting pool and throw to me are great! I use a wick setter from Candlescience that cost $30 and it works great to center my 2 wicks in the jars.

I am testing HTP 1212 and HTP 1312 in 8 oz apothecary jars with Ecosoya CB 135 wax and 9% Pumpkin Crunch Cake FO from Natures Garden. The HTP 1312 instantly created a hole around the wick right after I lit it, exposing too much wick and making a huge flame. I added FO at 185 degrees and poured the wax very slowly into my jar at 125 degrees. Any idea why this could have happened? I have never had this happen before.

I just recently bought 2 Scentsy warmers. Both had a 25 watt bulb. I put a 1 oz wax melt in each and only about a nickel size of wax would melt. I took out the 25 watt bulb and replaced it with a 40 watt bulb and have had PERFECT melt ever since. Don't know why Scentsy thought 25 watt was enough for a large warmer lol.

Hi everyone, I am new to this Forum and had a few questions. First off, let me explain how I got started in the candle business. My Mother and I decided to make candles together 2 years ago. She make all the candles and I did all the labeling, selling them to customer's, etc. I never actually was with her during the candle making process since we lived in different states but somehow we were able to join together and sell candles as a business. About 6 months ago my Mom moved even farther away and had to quit the candle business, leaving it all up to me. I no longer sell my candles to the public as a business, just make them myself and for friends/family. With all that said, my Mom was using the Ecosoya CB 135 wax with ECO 8 wicks (double wick) in our 4 inch diameter apothecary jars. (8 oz, 16 oz, 26 oz). I had soot all over my wall's and all over the candle jar and the flame was way too big. I contacted a candle company I purchase most of my FO's from and they said I should never be using ECO's in my brand of wax. She recommended using LX 28, LX 30 to try to single wick and for double wick LX 16 and LX 14. The single wicks still didn't work in my jars, not a full melting pool and believe it or not the LX 28 and LX 30 mushroomed bad and had to constantly be trimmed. The LX 16 double wicked I thought did amazing, no soot, had to trim the wick still a few times but nothing major. I sent the pic of how my candle was burning after 2.5 hours (pic attached below) and the sales rep told me that the melting pool I had should be like that after 4 hours, not 2 so I should go down to double wick LX 14. Well, the LX 14 wont give me a full melting pool. I am really confused about which wick to use and would LOVE to go to a single wick but can't seem to have any luck with the one's suggested. Also, my Ecosoya says 9% max for FO usage. I notice FO bottled state 2%-10%. Would it not be very wise to put 10% FO in my wax if I wanted a stronger smell? I hope I didn't ramble on too much, just really want to get this wick thing solved and not have my candles with soot all over them and the information I am getting from my sales rep isn't heping.