JanetsCandles

I'm using zinc core wicks, so far no problems. They do mushroom if you forget to trim them down though. But think I need to increase my FO content. Using 6% for this batch (start low, work up). Not bad on throw, just not as good as I'd like.

Actually I've used 1230A for it as well (Had some available, worked in testing, so used it) and had no problems, so honestly yes, higher is better, but you can go to the lower end of the spectrum on melt point. As for the question, it depends on the size of taper I'm wanting to go with. On dipped or dinner taper sized molded tapers, I use 15 ply flat braid. I use other sizes for different diameters, but it's always flat braid on paraffin, it works very well. You can use 1260 for an outer dip on the tapers. But it's too hard to burn well for a core.

I use Hobby Lobby's wax, so 133-135 melt point. Works fine for me.

I use online labels as well. So far no problems.

Keep in mind that your wick will change depending on color concentration and FO addition. So you'll have to retest after adding either of those as well. I usually wait 24 hours regardless, just because I'd rather stick with a system than have to change it up for every product. *shrug* I don't know if you HAVE to do that, but I do anyway.

I use paraffin with vybar 103 for my tapers, dipped and molded both. It stays firm and doesn't drip for me. I can't use straight soy for it, doesn't pull from the molds, and dipping it is a pain in the arse.

I've been testing for the last 2 days now. 6% FO and using zinc wicks, so far no major problems, no smoking. I ended up re wicking a 1 oz container that I'd done because the burn wasn't working quite right, but after doing that, no smoke, beautiful combustion and absolutely no problems otherwise. I'm having a friend test the scent throw at this level because my allergies have been acting up and I can't smell anything! :rolleyes2 I'll probably test a higher FO concentration this week as well to make sure it won't precipitate out. Using the putty knife method for cutting, but I think I may go and get a palate knife or an icing spatula instead. A longer blade would be useful. The stuff reminds me so much of vaseline, makes me wonder if it's just a very similar process for it.

I actually need a lighter red than the liquids are giving me. I need the christmas red they carry in the flakes, but they keep giving me less than I order because they just can't keep it in stock.

Does anyone know who supplies Candle Chem for the dye flakes? It's not French Color. I am trying a sample of a couple of their colors and am coming up sorely disappointed in the red they sent. I'll be asking them if they've got another shade, but would really love to find out who supplies Candle Chem. I just can't get the amounts I need for some of my wax. And liquid dyes aren't giving me the right color red either.

It's mostly a combination of aesthetic and mold shape. Some of the non concave molds can be used regularly, where the pour is the top. But that leaves a chance for a rippled surface on the top, which isn't always desirable. A lot of candle makers will level the bottoms of the candles, at the pour, and it doesn't quite look right if you do it to the top. Also the pour opening can sometimes be jagged, depending on your final pour and so many other circumstances. But it all boils down to personal choice.

I'm not sure if you could remelt multiple times, I'm also unsure about freezing the stuff, I know some oils don't react well to freezing and I'm flat not sure what they do to this wax to make it so soft. For sure it's not just straight paraffin, I'm betting some additives are involved. One problem is that I'm still in the testing phase, so not wanting to make a full batch of candles until I get my wick and scent levels figured out. So thinking I'll keep it in the bag except for using the small amounts at a time. I may freeze the bag when it has a little left over to see if there's a problem and if it makes removal easier. But I'll be testing the remelt thing too and will post the results of that as well, if no one else already knows.

Since reading the stuff in the forums on this wax, I decided to try it out, got some from Lonestar Candle Supply this week. Just got it unpacked and while I realized that it would be soft, I didn't realize it would be quite this soft. Do you guys have a suggestion on how to get the wax out of the bags without a lot of waste? I'm working on testing starting tomorrow hopefully.

I had a thought based on someone else's comment, definitely don't go and give away early in your candle business. Especially if you're doing this for business and not just for crafts to give to friends/family. There's a serious financial danger to it. Word will get around that you give freebies and it will make it much more difficult to sell a candle. Samples are ok, but remember, if you give too many samples out, you will lose money and possibly to the point of bankrupting yourself. Also, don't short change yourself on your cost. At bare minimum, take and figure out what each candle will cost you to make. Then settle on a percentage that you want to make as commission, and don't forget to include cost of any molds or equipment in your figuring. I'm not saying to charge the cost of a pouring pot for every candle, but remember, even with the best care your stuff will wear out and will have to be replaced. It happens more frequently if you drop equipment or molds. Also, some plastic molds react badly to certain mold cleaners or dye removers. Lesson learned ;P

Only way I've gotten dripless is by hand dipping, or after molding, using high MP wax as an overdip. And 12 ply flat braid wick. Check to make sure your test candles on burning. It's amazing what sort of stuff you can just mentally block out. I had one that was refusing to not drip and it was driving me nuts. I forgot that I had the AC on. And every time it kicked on, even though the vent wasn't in a direct line to the candle, it still created enough draft to blow it off center and cause it to drip. Closed the vent and it worked fine. It's easier to solve the environmental issues than it is to stress on tweaking the formula.

Whoops. I think I fixed it now Jeana. If not, email me at janetkcummings (at) gmail.

I use it in my candles, but get it from Peak. I use it in all my colors now. Have to with the sun being so... intense I guess is the word, at least here in New Mexico. The powder I have is a yellowish color, does fuse under heat and moist conditions. I'm not sure either what it's made of. My fiancee said it looks and feels in texture a lot like the stuff they use in plastics manufacturing, still for UV stabilization. Neither of us know anything else about it. But I'm curious too.

I've used One Stop for a few things, they are a bit more pricey, but awesome folks. Bob is the man in charge. He makes his own candles as well as supplies others with things. I have not tried any of his FOs, although I know he uses them himself with good effect. He does NOT use soy from my understanding, strictly paraffin, so you may have extra testing there if you work in soy wax.

Just found this thread, so sorry I had come in late. I had my credit card authorized for over $300 from the UK in March as well. I had used Candles and Supplies just before that as well as USPS. Those are the only 2 I have in common. The charge never went through, it was an authorization, but still had my card number changed. Since then, no new problems, and I have used Candles and Supplies and also USPS since. Also, I have a secondary card on USPS that I occasionally use, and nothing came through that account. Another thing to think about. I've had this happen in the past and it turned out to be a person in the bank causing the issues. They were skimming multiple accounts that way. It's less likely that way, but still possible.

I have a tin plate 2x3.5 I'd gotten from Yaley a while ago. I don't use it, prefer the seamless. But I'm willing to sell it for a couple bucks plus shipping if you want it. Private message me if you're interested Jeana.

Sorry for not answering sooner, guys. I was on a "let's get more customers out of state" type trip. HorsescentS, yes, Arkansas Glass is in Jonesboro. I used them partially because they are very near my home town. Filmore wasn't stocking the jars I used anymore, and I tracked them down through the box labeling to find that I could order them direct (which was nice). And I agree about the hoping they continue with Filmore!

Pillar wax is OK for making tapers. I make the hand dipped kind, start with straight paraffin and use my own blend. I use 15 ply flat braid wick from Candles and Supplies for mine and it burns very well. I actually use a blend that is very similar to my pillar blend for making them. I find anything much softer and I get warpage on shipping them in large quantities.

I had been purchasing some 16 ounce jars with lug fittings on the top of the jar from Filmore Glass, along with some other glassware products. I needed the empty 7 day glass jars as well, and had been getting them there before they stopped carrying them and I had to switch to General Wax for them. Anyway, in the meantime, I had been dealing with their supplier and distributorship over at Arkansas Glass Company in Jonesboro, AR. I just went looking for one of the jars I order from them (I get a 6 month supply at one time usually), and have just found that Arkansas Glass is under a new owner and so switching over a lot of their product. Does anyone know if it's going to effect Filmore as well? I'm just about to try ordering more of the glasses again, so it's a bit of a frustration point to find that the supplier is somehow no longer doing what I'm used to.

Only suggestion I've got is to start with the FO load CS has and then if you want, start increasing the load in your testing to see how well it performs.

I use Vybar 103 in my pillars and molded candles. Part of it depends on your base wax. I've found some strange reactions if you use too much vybar. So if you are using something that is pre-blended, it might not be the best plan to use vybar with it, regardless of the scent load you are using. If you're using a pre blend, check with the supplier to see if they would recommend, they may send you to the manufacturer to ask instead (but they're pretty good about it as well.) And as you've probably seen over and over on the site, test, test, test, then when you think you're done testing, test some more. For me, it does increase the scent load I can add. Without vybar or steric, I can put in maybe 3% into the base wax and not have it weep, but that depends on the FO as well. With vybar I can put 6 to 9% depending on the oil and what else is going into the candle (as well as size). Keep in mind, vybar make the wax have a higher melt point, so you may have to adjust wicking and all sorts of other stuff too. Which is the point of the testing.

Quite frankly, I agree 100%. There are much better ways to get sales than spreading rumors, especially those that are unproven or just slandering another group.