jackbenimble

Hi Everyone! I finally have my website up and going. I think it looks really good. I know I'll keep updating it and making it better so please go to it and check it out and give me your thoughts. Thanks so much! I couldn't have gotten here without all the help from the people on this site answering my questions.

Hi Everyone!

I have a lot of leftover FO from testing candles. Most of the bottles have about 1/4 ounce left in them. I think I'm going to make tealights with them and put them on sale. So how much soy wax will 1/4 of FO scent strongly. Does that make sense? Thankyou!!

Thank you all for your replies! This makes me feel a lot better. I will be getting a few 1oz. bottles soon!

I've read in the past somewhere that NG FO do not work well in soy candles. Is this true? I think they have some interesting FO but don't want to purchase if there not going to work anyway. Thank you for any advice you have on this!

Thank you for the help. . I was going to use Elements Soap base but they were out of stock so I am using Peaks base which on the ingredients looked basically the same. I am using FO from Candlewic in the soap. The mold is an 8 cavity mold.

I'm using Elements linen spray base. Their website does say what % to use.

Hi Friends,

I'm making some 4oz linen spray using a base for Xmas gifts and wanted to know how much FO I should use? Thanks in advance!!

Hi friends,

I am making 4oz M&P goats milk soap for Xmas gifts and wanted to know what the appropriate amount of FO I should use for each soap. Thanks in advance!!

I guess it really depends on how coputer savvy you are. If you are good with computers, I would highly reccomend Photoshop. Since you would only be making labels, you can purchase one of the older versions and it would work great. I use Photoshop 7.0 and I design all of my own labels, and label templates, once you learn how to do it, you will never want to use another program.

What if your not very computer savvy like me. LOL! I have looked into vista print to make my labels. Very good prices BTW but I'm really just lost as to what to do. I don't want to spend the money just to be confused and spend hours and hours trying to use a program. Is there a quick stress free way to get my labels?

Can anyone recommend a label making program? I am considering buying Label Factory Deluxe 3.0. Anyone use this software? Any help is much appreciated.

Well I have been poring now with the 415 at 100 degrees. I agree i have no patience to wait that long but I'm not sure if I can return unused wax to the supplier? anyone Know? I'll probably just call them. lol! Anyway out of about 30 candles only one came out smooth. I used a heat gun on all the other tops to make them smooth. Anyway I pretty much hate 415 so I'm going to try 464 and CB 135. Heard they are good. Lets hope cause I'm running out of money! LOL! I'm having a small get together of friends to let them smell the 60 fragrances I have made so I can narrow it down to about 27 or so. BTW I'm using LX-26 and ECO-14 wicks. I have 10oz apothecary jars with a 3.5-4in jar diameter. Anyway I;m having fun and hope to make a little money as a bonus. Thanks for the help and info so far. Keep it coming friends!!!

I have been using Adv. Soy and Excel and pouring at 130 degrees. I guess those types of soy waxes are forgiving. I get nice smooth tops but I haven't lite them yet. Oh btw I'm in my testing phase. LOL! So I read how GW 415 gives a really great Hot Throw and thought I'd try it out. Well its is pure soy so its not as forgiving I found out. I poured at 120 degrees. Oppsee! The tops were so bumpy. They looked like Grubby candles. I put them in the oven to melt their tops. Made them worse! So my next batch I poured at 100 degrees as recommended. Lets hope those come out better or I'm going back to the other brands. Lol! Anyway is there any advice that anyone has about what I'm doing or not doing? Thanks!

What do you guys think of these different waxes.

1. CB-Adv.

2. CB-Xcel

3. EZ-Soy

4. Nature Wax C-3

I've been using Lonestar as a supplier. I've tried waxes 1 and 2. I want to try waxes 3 and 4 too but don't want to waste money on something that may not be the right fit for me. Lonestar has waxes 1, 2, and 4. Bittercreek has wax number 3.

Also what wicks do you feel work best with each of these types of wax. I am using a 10oz apothecary jar. I've tried CD, HTP, and ECO so far. Havent actually lit a candle yet because I'm waiting to let them cure for a week.

If I've left any info out please let me know.

thanks guys that really helps alot. I think I'll place an order for some.:smiley2:

I have read that using liquid dyes in soy container candles creates excess frosting on the tops of the candles. Is this true? Is there anyone here that is using liquid dyes in there soy candles. Thanks in advance!

What oils did you use? I love the thought of them and love lotion bars.

Hi Sharon,

Here's the recipe for the lotion candle. I got this recipe from the Soap Queen Blog.

Items needed:

Candle Tin

Wick (We like the WU 250 or the CD20)

Skin Safe Fragrance

Container Soy Wax (Naturewax C3)

Liquid Vegetable Oil (like Apricot Kernal Oil or Sweet Almond Oil or Jojoba oil or Olive Oil)

Recipe:

3 ounces Soy Wax

1 ounce Liquid Oil

.25 ounce Fragrance

1. Measure out 3 ounces of Soy Wax and 1 ounce of Liquid Vegetable Oil. We tested Apricot Kernel Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba and Olive Oil. My personal favorites were the Olive Oil and Apricot Kernel Oil.

2. Melt the Soy Wax and your choice of Liquid Oil in the microwave at short 45 second bursts in a heat safe container, like a Pyrex.

3. Add the fragrance or essential oil. This recipe is particularly good to do a delicate fragrance or essential oil since there is no sweet smelling cocoa butter to interfere with the sophisticated notes.

4. Stir and wait. The ideal temperature to pour this mixture is right before the wax oil mixture is about to set up. The cooler that the candle is poured, the more smooth your final product will be. Candles poured too warm have a tendency to crater or have pitted surfaces.

5. Center the wick and wait for the candle to harden. Once it's solid, trim the wick, burn the candle and try a nice warm massage.

If your making them in a container they work great but if your using them as a lotion bar I'd add an ounce of beeswax pellets to harden it up some. Again this is kinda oily so be prepared.

I am looking for a thyme FO. I have found several thyme EO but I want to use it as a mixer with another FO I found at AH/RE called sweet pumpkin. It's more of a pumpkin on the vine scent. Any help with this is much appreciated. Thanks!

I like jennyjo idea about the lotion tarts. I might have to try that. Anyway I just wanted to say I understand everyones concerns about lotion/massage candles but I think they are a really neat idea. There are several high profile companies on the net selling these style of candles. I was so curious about them that I recently made two of them and used one for the first time tonight. It is just like a warm lotion too. It's a tad bit oily at first but the butters and soy absorb really fast so I like them. Especially on my feet. Lol!

Thanks guys for your feedback. I had thought about about putting it in the freezer as well but wasn't sure so I just followed the directions. I will do that next time.

I have been looking on the net everywhere for this answer. I know that most candle makers recommend 1-1 1/2 ounces of FO per pound of wax. I'm doing alot of testing of candles right now and am only making one candle in that particular fragrance at a time. So my question is: How many ounces of FO are needed for a 10 ounce soy candle. Any advice is much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I just made a body butter recipe earlier today. After I finished the recipe it said to let it sit for several hours so it could firm up. That was at 1:00pm and now its 6pm. Its still in its melted liquid state. Do I need to wait longer? what should I do? Thanks for any help that you have.

Here's the recipe encase you want to see what I did. I did double the recipe.

Makes approx. 8 ozs.

Ingredients:

2 ozs cocoa butter (weighed)

2 ozs natural shea butter

(weighed)

2 ozs mango butter (weighed)

1 teaspoon wheat germ oil

3 teaspoons apricot kernel oil

1 teaspoon aloe vera gel

Mango fragrance oil (or any

fragrance oil)

1/4 teaspoon Vitamin E. (optional, as a preservative)

Directions:

Add all the butter ingredients to a pan or double boiler on low until all the ingredients have liquefied. Continue to heat on low for another 20 minutes (do not boil). The continued heating will help prevent the butters from becoming grainy once solid. Add additional oils and let set to cool for a few hours. Before the mixture sets, stir or even whip, to incorporate. Spoon into jars or tins and label.

Note: This is a firmer body butter.

If you prefer a softer butter, the

consistency can be adjusted

by decreasing the amount of

cocoa butter. Or just adding a little more aloe gel.