Gbhunter

Well the double wick jar is so hot around the top rim it cannot be touched. You can move it from place to place as long as you hold onto the bottom. I will post pictures of each candle after a 7 hour burn. It seems if I want. Scent throw I will need to put up with some mushrooming The double wicked jar has no throw The #5 wick mushroomed again I will post what it looks like after 7 hours non stop, but it has good throw and it took a while for the mushroom to develop, plus by adding beeswax the melt pool got larger, I just have to see if it smokes. The #6 is an abysmal failure it had a smaller pool then the #5(proving to me that the article I read which stated the lower the MP the bigger the wick). Next I will do 2 21 ply wicks and see how that goes. I will add stirene instead of beeswax and see if the results are the same(beeswax is just too expensive). I might test a soy palm mix. But I will have images soon

When you mix parafin with soy say 20/80. 80% soy 125 and 20 percent 145 MP parafin and use it for container wax is the shrinkage going to be an issue? Or instead of parafin use steric . One more question. How hot is to hot for a jar? And the last point is it possible not to turn this into a battle of words that has nothing to do with the original question. :tiptoe: Play nice:highfive:

Excellent. The only thin I found online is that the softer the wax the bigger the wick needed. Sooo I built some candles last night. The #6 smokes when disturbed even slightly. The one with two 24 ply wicks burned edge to edge after about an hour with minimal shrooming on one of the two wicks. 21 ply may work better as the jar get pretty hot. I have not tested the stabilo wicks yet. I decided to see if it is true that a harder wax will need a smaller wick so I made a candle that's 80% soy 125 and 20% beeswax. And used a square #5 which is a wick that failed epicly before, I also turned down the f/o to 4 % it mushroomed 5 min after being lit...I almost threw the thing against the wall. But I do bonsai as well so I have become more patient. I cut the shroom and re-lit and its been burning perfectly and unlike before no shroom and also unlike before the pool is almost edge to edge. At 23:00 house EST I will take a picture of all three. The #5 square seems not to smoke, but time will tell on the jar. The f/o is detectable but not strong. Bees wax gets pricey, what happens if you mix palm wax into soy? I know it will shrink which is a pain in the behind. If i do a double pour it will look super ugly. I could just add palm steric instead of beeswax. The double wick is by far the best however one wick is getting a shroom this is a clean non f/o or color candle. I think. I can get the same result with 2 21ply wicks. Here is a pic of an almost consumed palm pillar that was wicked with #3 wick, 45ply burns well also but the walls of the candle collapse: http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111223_162120.jpg

This thread is on going in the veggie wax forum. I was told square braids do well in soy. Ooooookay so I just did a search on shrooms and it seems my problem is common and tolerated under heavy f/o loads so I'm just spinning my wheels here trying to accomplished something that is a norm. Frustrating *dead horse**faint*

I did not "buy" them per say. I got a sample pack of rrd,htp(holy moly did that one mushroom),lx and raw stabilo wicks that I have not tried yet. I talked to the manufacturer and he stated the coatings are only so the wick stays rigid. All the chmical aplications are done on the raw wick. So far none worked. I have a feeling I just bought crap jars that make wicking difficult. I have like 10 rolls of wick I will never use. But the alternative is to have 500 tabed wicks I'll never use. I have been told by more than one source that if I want a clean burn I will sacrfice scent throw to some degree. Will square braids work in soy? The #3 square burned my palm pilar perfectly leaving a super thin shell and no blow outs. The 45 ply does well in that wax too...I just don't know if those candles smoke since its such a light color soot. So I might be thinking I have these pillars down and dialed in and for all I know they are chimneys. I wish I could test it some how. When I first started with parafin I turned the walls black, I still get some shoot from my parafins but was also told this cannot be complestly eliminated and have the candle not tunnel(sorry for the spelling English is not my primary language). In essence I was told if i want a candle with a perfect burn I would need to blend waxes and do hundreds of burns only to find out that once the humidity changed I would be back to some soot. As of now I have a #6 no f/o or color Also 2 24 ply wick set up also clean And 2 6 CD wick setup Then just for giggles I have a #5. 20% beeswax 80% 125 soy mix with only 4% f/o All in the 18.5 libbey jars. This tought me if I'm going to buy a bigger jar it better not narrow at the top. This is the jar I use: https://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c54,p1304

You seem you say what most sites state. They say that mushrooming is unavoidable it just depend on how much you will get. I will try CD one more time and see if I can get better results. On the brighter sides my palm pillars leave a paper thin shell when the #3 square wick is used with no blow outs. It works great for that. I will pour the candle today. I will also not use the palm wax to prime the wick, it worked fine without it.

Candlewics soy 125 . Searching online for this mushrooming issue was useless. Almost all stated that you will have mushrooming to one degree or another. Everyone states that the wick CD is special for some reason. I have some wicks but the are raw all my wicks are I do not by pre tabed wicks. I don't need 500 wicks only to find out that as weather conditions change the wick will be ineffective or that I don't like it.

I have the 18.5 oz libbey jars they are 3 3/4 inches in diameter but it shrinks to about 3 1/5 or less at the neck. I have tried every &%$#-*&% wick combination ply,lx,htp,CD,rrd,papercore and now square braid. All mushroom. I used #3 it tunneled and left a ton of wax unmelted so I went to #5 still pool is not big enough and now with the scent it mushroomes. 2 wicks is not a good idea because of the neck,the wick would be to close to the glass causing it to get boiling hot. According to the Candlewic wick guide for this wax should be #6. How do you know if soy is smoking? Does it leave a residue? Perhaps this libbey jars are crap and I should have just got one with straight sides. Any ideas I'm at wits end?

More viscus waxes need larger wicks...I wonder if adding steric would help my issue.

I wish there was a way to widen the wax pool with out making it deeper. I think these libbey 18.5 oz jars are crap. Due to their size in the middle it makes them hard to wick. Is a little shrooming such a horrible thing? I thpalked to a candlear...I think that's how you spell it. Anyway I talked to this guy and he told me in glass containers especialy ones that are wider in the middle then the neck I should not burn longer than 3 hours and that sometimes a bit of shrooming is unavoidable. How ever in this candle I think I may have added too much color. So I have another colorless candle and will see how that burns,if that fails then it must be the palm coating I used on the wick. I have one candle that I raw wicked and it never shroomed. Speaking of color I know this to be a stupid question but how much is too much each one of these 18.5 oz jars takes 420g of wax, what would be my color limit?

I used 5.5% by weight of a coffee scent. Since stabilo wicksbare the same as CD, I can say that they too mushroomed. Also I use raw wicks. The lopsideness is from my wife keeping it near the fan.

Is this considered bad after 4-5 hour burn?

This is the image of the shroom after 4 to 5 hours. This is the pick. Obviously I think I will need to wick up to get the side wax out.

I tried the lx wicks all sizes. All balooned out. The lx never worked for me. The #5 comes recomended for soy 125 in that size. My palm waxes of the same size actually use smaller square braids #3 to be exact. It leaves be hint a paper thin shell with no blow outs. 45 ply works well too it breaks the candle down and it looks ugly. CD wicks are the only ones I have not tried. The candle here has been burning for 2 hours I will take a photo of said shroom at three hours. I just want a sample pack of wicks so I don't have to buy spools. No on want to give me raw samples.

I am right now. I use soy 125 by candle wick. Right now I have square braids in the candles. I will try some other. I to have shrooming. I think I found out why but will have to check that theory. You are absolutely right f/o is what causes it as I reduce f/o the shrooming stops but no nice smell. I tried every wick but CD. I do have a few on hand and will see if they work better. My jars were a poor choice since they have a narrower neck and bulge out. Right now I used #5 square wicks and it so so, I still have wax on the walls so #6 is next.

I wonder if its the palm wax that I apply to keep them rigidity that is causing this. I have some CD wicks...they are called stabillow or something like that but they are said to be the same. I will see if I can get my hands on some actual CD wicks. For my 3" palm pilars I use 45 ply or #3 square they leave a nice thin shell behind with out any blowouts. The fo is 5.5% by weight. But I think I just figured out why they shroom. My theory which I will test later is that the wick is not allowed to curl because of the palm wax used on it. Thanks

I have libbey jars that are wider in the middle then the neck. Its 3 and 3/4 in diameter. I use a #5 square braid. The scent throw is amazing , but it shrooms and after being blown out it smokes for a good minute or so. But when I change the wick to something different I get no scent throw. I use Candlewicks soy 125. I also use spooled raw wick I usualy coat them with palm wax so they don't flopinto the wax pool. Even the #5 sq are does not clear the walls .I might have to go up to #6. Before anyone says anything about wicking down I tried #3 and it was a misrable failure it left tons of wax on the walls. Is it possible that the palm wax that is keeping the wick straight is causing the shrooming?

The shape of the jar is a 3" neck but the middle is 4". Its a Libbey jar that I got...well 12 of them. I am running a test now so I will have results soon. Its candlewicks soy 125. I was informed that CD wicks are for hard waxes like palm. Not for 125 soy...that was what I was told any way. Here is the link to said jar https://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c54,p1304 Is there a time limit of how long one should burn a glass candle? They are shrooming quickly only with f/O. I use raw wicks and I coated them with palm wax. I don't get the pre tabed wicks. I personal hate F/O but my wife want it. A shroom is visable in 45 min. Its small, I will post a pic after 3 hours.

In my scented jar candles I use square #5 after a few hours it gets a shroom on it I will add image later today. The container is 4" in diameter in the thikest part. I have used this wick with palm pillars that are unscented and no shroom. I have tried rrd,lx,htp and all sorts of other wicks. Once the f/o is added it mushrooms at one point or another, the longerv the burn the bigger the shroom. Htp wick was the worst offender. #5 square in the 125 soy has amazing throw and my wife loves them(I have been told that if I try to mess with them I will have my hand brutally removed ). My wife yelled at me for complaining too much about it and brought no less than 3 Yankee candles with shrooms on them as well. What gives. Oh yes the lx wicks did not shroom very much but had no throw. When I get throw I instantly get a shroom no mater what wick I use. I'm just worried about health I do not see a lot of black residue on the jar when its done its barely visable. Most of the Yankee candles the jar is visably black.

What benifitgWhy do people mix parafi,and beeswax or mix. Palm also what are rge brn

I have seen a new wooden wick it looks like a cross. As if two wooden wicks were attached in a perpendicular fashion. I cannot find any one that sells them. I do not know if thy burn better that the standard wicks.

If using spooled wick for palm pillars what wax should be used to coat the wick? Palm hs a rather high melt point and in pillars the wick curl akes the wax pool off center making the candle burn unevenly.

I have read a lot on this site about wicks. But can someone explain on what basis does someone choose a flat braided wick vs say cotton or square braid, if all the wicks burn properly what then is the deciding factor on which to choose? I have seen square wicks come recommended for bees wax. But I am sure other wicks could do the exact same thing. Currently I made a 3" pillar from palm wax I used #3 square braided wick. It worked very well, but so did the 45ply flat braid. When you compare the data tables for those 2 wicks they are virtually the same in every catagory. I have never had success with htp or lx wicks. I use them from spools so they are not soaked in any wax. Also following the 3" palm wax example would soaking the wick in a high temp wax(higher then the one used) change the way the candle burns and why? If any one has links with the why answer please share them I love data , I know that "candles by numbers" takes the art out of the candle making process but that is just the way I think of things, art is difficult for me. Thanks to all that respond.

well can some one at least answer the first question?