Gbhunter

I do not do palm containers so I cannot possibly say anything about how it works there. I did talk to a person at we do and they stated the stabilo/kst wicks are very similar to csn,. Don't shoot me I'm just repeating the info.

45 ply is winner so far for me and the environment of my home. Wicks unlimited has charts and it seem that the. 25 cunsumption rate is what works best with a 3 " palm the #5 and 45 ply have the same consumption rate but the build seems that wicks are not created equal when it comes to soft container wax that I noticed the CSN and stabillo are wonderful for the softer stuff, but I have no numbers. I keep a log so now I will compare the biggest stabilio 20 vs 45 ply vs #5 directly in 3 burns then crown the winner.

I got my Csn wicks last night. 16 was the recommended wick...and drum roll please It....failed miserably tunneled straight down. A smaller wick just made a small tunnel. I tested square #6 was a bit ovekill. So the best wicks so far is #5 and 45 ply. Do not get me wrong the CSN and CD are great for my soy candles. But no different for my palm candle. I called several sources many did not agree with CD,CSN are a good choice but not for uncented palm pillars. These sources stated these are great for scented soy/parafin or a mix or both. Paper core failed horribly also. Cotton core might be a selection I will try. But 45ply and #5 are still best for my case.

The stabilow wick performed rather great. When they give you burn result charts like at wicks unlimited. Why is it that you can have two wicks and get drasticaly different results. How did they get those numbers? I know they use one type of wax bet it still bugs me how different they are from the numbers on. The chat.

I'm sorry I saw a bunch of threads for this very topic. Please deleate this question. I also don't add f/o so its useless for me thanks. I would add it to my soy once I figure how they work without it.

Does this worth getting for veggie or palm candles? Also in the description it states it increases the f/o load but does not state the amount.or is this a waste of money. I have never used anything other than steric. So help would be great?

This thing was wrong with this wick it almost created an "O" it had to be over wicked the wax was a 70/30 soy/parrafin. It did not tunnel it melted a small amount of wax it just did it so fast. Now that I look in the light of day I see the black soot. Bah! I am getting the diffrnt wicks this week. Also the self trimming was totally absent the flwme became huge. I guess this is a part of testing btw if I did not mention it before it was a stabilo size 6 wick. Usually I use 24-27 ply for these jars and they work well. My web page is acting up it takes a lot of work to get an image in.

Other than soot an a huge melt pool how can one tell they are over wicked. I got an 8 oz far and it just at ad under 3 inches. I wicked it for a test with stabilo 6. No sootining no huge melt pool but in burned out in like 8 hours,. My CD and cns wick are coming his week so I look forward to testing those. On the tstabilo there was no self wick trimming I could see.

sorry the the first pic is the heavy stirene, the second is low stirene levels.

Here are the pics the first is with low amount of stirene its easy to see the glow. The second is with about 15%. All that can be seen is the light coming out of the mouth of the candle. I did these photos in the same fashion. I have been doing photography for 10 years so its not a whit balance issue, the set up for this test was the same in both images. Just the location changed slightly.

I will see if i can grab a few with the high % and ones with the low %.

Well I made a starburst palm candle and added 15% stirine it made the color so opacue that it made the candles "glow" almost invisable. So now I know and knowing is half the battle! :rolleyes2

Was just curious that's all. I get about 1/4 inch shells as well maybe a bit thinner. The only problem I get is the wick leans, I have been told this is an issue in every wick to some extent except zinc core. Someone recommended twisting the wick may have been you ,I do not remember. Well thanks for all the help. In my 18.5 OZ 3.75" dia. Soy 125 jars I just went dual wick with so many people suggested it. I will just need to find the two wicks that will work 24 ply Was overkil, but not too much. Quality wise is it better to use beeswax to mix into soy or just do parafin? I did like the way it burned when I added 10%bee/90% soy it worked much better than straight soy. I have never researched vybar.

The last statement was a question to the person from BCN or BCS. I looked at their site and once you make a wick selection this list that states this wick for this diamater candle pops up. I did not see that this list was wax specific. Sorry, I do not mean to be troublesome. But thanks for answering my question anyway. What if 15% of the wax is replaced by palm steric?

I used the recommended wick. And it tunneled have used small,square,stabillo,ply,lx,rrd and htp all tunnelled. Sorry about the spelling English is not my primary language. I can only speak from experimenting. I talked to Candlewic and with a rep from Wicks Unlimited, both confirmed #5-#6 for starburst palm both also had different opinions of what wick was best one stated stabillo the other lx and rrd. Both had a basic consecus stated that the flame in the smaller wick would be too cool to create a pool large enough to consume the high MP wax, therefore it would tunnel and drown. I can confirm that the wick bitter candle suggested failed terribly,. I am not being hostile just sort of frustrated. So far the 45 ply worked best. But after I removed the scent it seems this wick creates a large shell now as well. I have not tried CSN, I will order some. I will post a pic of a candle burned out with a #5 once my wife burns it. The wick question is a non issue as to which square will do what, I have tested them more then once. Odds are it is a wax issue. Nothing personal I have never bought wax from bitter candle. So my question now is since palm steric has a MP 156 and the wax is about 170 what would the effect be of adding it into the wax? Also does any one have picks of what a palm pillar candle burn should look like. Ones bought at stores burn terribly leaving huge chuncks behind or terrible burns that leak all over. Google yields mostly adds and pics of candles that were just lit. I am doing all the writing from the small tablet my search abilities are crippled. On a side note I do like the EZ Wick Setter Multi that bitter candle sells. By the way do the recommendations of pillar sizes specify the wax its for?

First I really take issue with companies that put one thing in their descriptions of things such as wicks and then say something different when speaking to them. I am currently testing square braid wicks in palm wax, every time I mentioned that ,I get the support that this wick is better for beeswax..OK then why do none of the places I go say this wick is better used in besewax and not other waxes. Second after talking to their support I know they are full of it. For a 3" palm pillar they reccomend the 0/1 wick....uhm #5tunnel but leaves a very thin shell so its/a good burn. However I have tried smaller wicks they all tunnel. I have no idea where they get 0/1 from. Even their site recommends larger wicks so do scores of others. I am in the process of getting some stabilo wicks to see if they do better. I also know that 45ply works very well for this wax. The guy stated that a wick too large will tunnel just as a wick too small. From doing burns I know thats &*-#$+ . In the palms at least the tiny wics tunnel then drown ,the huge stuff looks like its burning great until 1 hour later you get blow outs a 1 foot flame and wax allover. Ugh its like they ant you to just buy spool after spool of the wrong stuff so the last spool you buy will be the correct size. They also recommended raw unprimed wicks for palm.... this I'm testing today with two identical candles one wick primed one not. I have heard that due to the open structure of the cotton square wick works better with no primer. As for the srabilo wics I get mixed feelings from people some say its the only wick you will need others hate the in favor of other wicks.

OK so I have a spare crock pot. It would need a ladle to pour the wax. The question is does wax break down if it is repeadly re melted? I would use this for soy only as palm hardens too quickly. Thanks.

What's c3?

So if you heat soy to 190 you can add this scent wait for it to cool then pour? If so I am goining to have a hissy with candlewicks videos! I have many hobbies, bonsai in the sumer candles in the winter. I have always been a perfectonist. I like to understanding things. I am a spiritual person and know some things are far beyond human understanding...I should say I believe some things are beyond understanding. I'm 34 and at 32 was diadnosed with cancer in a very strange way , they could not find its nature except to perform two massive 11 hour lung surgeries(first one failed) find one lymph node.....ONE! (each of these surgeries put me in ICU for days I saw several people die and a 12-14 kid become a quadropeligic, not fun). And at the end of this the good news.. I have lymphoma stage 4. They also proceed to tell me that the tumor that incased my right lung would have died on its own if left alone...sine that time things have not been the same. Chemo therapy robbed me of ever having children, unless God steps in that's how it stays. I always wantes to be a father so much(but that irrelevant now have to get back to what I wanted to say).So if sometimes I sound like I'm talking nonesens. Incomplete senteces, fragmented ideas and such it may be a bad day for me don't take offence or think I have lost my mind. God bless have a Marry Christmas...on the west coast And a happy new year.

I'm going to paste a link to a F/O https://www.candlewic.com/Store/Product.aspx?q=c92,p30,fScents Given the temperature indicated I can only see this in palm piller wax. So my question is to satisfy me and my....<sigh> other half Can someone point me to a site with more soy friendly f/o for her And molds for me! 180° for a f/o... holy macaroni! No wonder my fav black cherry f/o never worked! I don't even think you have many if any parafins at this temp...maybe beeswax...even container palm is lower temp then that.

Me and my wife went at each others throat today. I personal enjoy color and maybe just maybe faint f/o. But I rather have no F/O and play with the design or colors...half my %%$*%*%*% wicking problems would be solved if I just pulled f/o. I like parafin but I noticed the prices are almost double then veggie waxes so I switched... plus I hate the slab thing, don't get me wrong if parafin drops in price I will one again buy it. But I like palm pillers for the way they burn,I like container candles for the ambiance and color. I don't like the F/O, for several reasons. 1. It makes wicking a pain in the ××× . 2. You have to figure what wax wick combo has the best heat throw, this take money and a lot of time:angry2: 3. Finding this mix takes a ton of time. The only reason I try to do F/O is because my wife likes it. 3. The CD wicks are my last hope to stop the wick from mushrooming,also all the waxes I use have a Max load of 6%. 4. Not a fan of blends unless I make them. 5. Most F/O stinks to me, very few produce a smell that I like and those usually have the worst throw. That's about it. Am I so wrong?

I should be getting some CD wick soon and I will see what it can do for me. For now I will experiment wth mixing palm and soy just to see what happens. I will post results here.

:grin2:I Agree with you on this also- I will see if add in palm stric or palm wax gives similar reults. I realy want to see what happens with brittllewax and soft wax together. I will decrease the distance between both wicks. 15 ply in this wax will drill a hole even with 24 ply the wax pool was very shallow (less than 1/8". 21 ply should just get to the edge. But putting them this close together is a great idea. I am still waiting for a package of sample CD wicks so I can see if they are as good as people say,. I have a smal sample of CD wicks but they are the smalest sizes so I will test those on the 8oz candle jars I also make.

Stupid cut and paste here are the 3 photos http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111224_131616.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111224_131643.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111224_131715.jpg Last photo is of the #6 wick which failed terribly.

Here is the result of a test burn,7 hour burn. This candle was 20% beeswax 80% 125 soy. A #5 wick, it has small mushroom but it also needs trimming. There is 4% f/o by weight. http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111224_131616.jpg This is the dual wick both are 24 ply wicks, I think 21 ply will work also. This setup caused the jar tob super hot. No f/o or color. http://www.angelfire.com/on3/shellandpaulsphoto/candles/IMG_20111224_131616.jpg The last two photos were straight soy 125 only the first one was a mix. I will run more tests. As for the 7 hour burn someone on the forum mentioned that that to do a through test the candle needs to be burned for 8 hours.