Circle

CB advanced has nice overall looks but to us it has a very bad Cold throw and hot throw. FO and EO have to be added in very high percentages to this wax and we still battle to get the scent throw we are wanting

Have learnt to accept the nature of frosting and customers dont mind. It is the wet spots that are something that is a bother for us, but customers dont seem to mind

Lovely, once again

Very pretty candles

Which of the jars are you looking at?

Part of life, same as wet spots.

As long as your wick doesnt drown and your wax is used up towards the end, that is good. I think a full melt pool on first and second burn can be a bad thing later on when the glass becomes too hot

I like the EVO dyes carried by CandleWic & JBN. They mix into the wax very well with no grains of undissolved dye (especially if mixed with the FO before adding to the wax); they meet California standards for environmental safety; they do not contain petroleum products; there is no odor to the dye or in the finished candle.

JBN has a new REACH compliant type that I will be testing as soon as my shipment arrives. HTH

I like them too. They don't stink like some others, You also get good rich colors

Natures garden worlds best fresh brewed coffee

Have seen it before in natural soy without colour, just the nature of the beast.

We have great results with EO and don't find them weaker than FO by any means. C3 is a great wax with excellent CT and Ht so cant see what the problem is here. With the other mixtures, maybe you are using too much beeswax. Maybe leave them to cure for a longer time

Question to pillar makers: Do you also do a power burn test all the way down without extinguishing?

Only if you are watching it the whole time. Light it in the morning where you are and extinguish it when you leave the area which should give you at least 7 hours power burn

I know that I shouldn't leave a candle burning unattended and I will have that on my warning lable when I do start selling. I just cannot test that knowing that there are people out there that will burn their candles unattended and while they are sleeping. As a candle maker we are supposed to make our candles safe for even those "stupid" candle burners. No, I'm not going to stick mine under my curtans to make sure my candles don't start them on fire, but I am going to make sure they are safe if they are burned from begginging to end without "blowing them out." Its a risk I'm willing to take to ensure the safty of my consumers. (even those that may accidently forget to blow theirs out before going to bed or leaving the house)

Just my opinion

If you have them wicked correctly, container candles are pretty safe to leave while you sleep. Pillar candles are the problem and should be watched at all times

They have good FO

The crystal structure is changing in your candles during storage and the new phase takes up more space than the original. This issue is a type of frosting because it relates to the polymorphism of soy wax. Not all soy candles exhibit this issue. If you take measures to control frosting, this will not occur, or at least to this extent. It's also VERY important to understand that soy wax is very sensitive to temperature - when pouring and during storage. Keeping the candles consistently cool while stored is extremely important if you don't want changes in the wax structure. Be grateful that it simply expands and does not go on to form the "cauliflower" crystal phase - looks like BRAINS eating the wick! I've had that happen on a couple of occasions and it really looks scary! Somewhere in the threads here, there is a photo of someone's candle that formed a giant bubble under the wick... soy wax can do very...ummmm.... INTERESTING things sometimes! :laugh2:

If your candles do this all the time and you don't want to change any of your procedures or ingredients, try to move them more quickly. Soy candles are best served fresh.

I looked in my melter the next day and was horrified at the brains that had invaded it, scary stuff!!!

Fantastic FO and CS

I think stay with the CD14 IMO

I believe they are the same

Without going into details, I have mentioned in a previous post that CBA is the base for our proprietary blend....90% is CBA...I highly doubt that the remaining 10% is giving us the excellent results we are obtaining. IMHO, CBA does give great HT given the right formula of wicking and FO load. Enough said.

10% is HUGE, if you put 10% beeswax in (for example) you would have a very, very, different candle. Firstly it would fall out of the glass when you turned it upside down, secondly it totally changes the size of the wick?

Being a "CB Advanced Lover" is a temporary condition. What most people learn is just not to use it. Here and there you might find a candlemaker in denial who continues to insist it works. Or maybe they've never experienced a strong scent throw and don't know what they're missing.

I totally agree, Top

A very expensive hobby but once you turn it into a business, it takes away all your time but is self satifying and you can make small money if you go about it the right way. We love it

You can never tell on new accounts in the area, so sell to those that want and when it comes to repeat orders, then you can determine who has that territory or not based on their purchase amount. A prime example is if you have a stall at a gift fair or simillar, you will sell to anyone you feel that qualifies to buy, you don't distinguish between areas. People have to realise that the world is a small place and some may stock the same as their neighbour store, FACT. They might have to order lines that the other stores don;t have for eg

No, the adhesion, HT,Ct etc is the same if you use frosted or clear

I think I use a 8:1 ratio red/black

Me too

I made 8 candles with same ingredients and poured 4 at normal pouring to get the crystal effect and 4 at a reduced temp which gave a smooth and crackled effect. the 4 at reduced temp were burnt in conjunction with the other higher temp 4 and all with the reduced temp pour had a burn closer to the sides and used the wax wall up as they burned down, much like a paraffin candle. The shell wall was thicker on the ones poured at higher temp. This was something that was quite interesting to us in that the wax, fo, wicks etc were all exactly the same. Stella, do the test it is worth it just for the fascination of it all.