Circle

You should never burn a pillar right to the end as it is not safe. Even if you are watching it, it is not safe practice to burn to the end

Maybe candles and supplies? They have small glass hearts you could pour into or put tealights into

I don't use the HTPs so I can't say for sure. But I wonder if its not that the wick is designed like some others to curl during burning for optimal flame. Sometimes that can have the effect of the jar heating up more on one side where the wick is curling or even be why you have one spot of soot on that side. Even when the wick is centered if it curls while burning it will burn slightly off to one side.

I agree. Try also wick down.

I would start with a CD 12 with C3 and adjust for FO.

I agree, chuck the old and wait for the new, otherwise noone can help, sorry:mad:

My suggestion is to read as much as you can from this forum, then buy your supplies to suit whichever candle you choose to make, container or pillar.

RRD's are good in container palm

I would go with the CD 16 in the glass, I am totally satisfied with slight hangup like that, the customer gets a longer burning candle, not too hot and it hasn't tunnelled. I personally always have slight hang up left on glass with my soy and am happy and so are my customers. I never like full melt pools on any burns as the glass is always at risk of being too hot and of course burning much faster. The tin looks fine, you probably have a longer neck on your sustainer base for the wick which doesn't allow it to burn further down.

I really like the 415 and got excellent CT & HT with all my candles. I, however chose C3 for the following reasons: Makes a nice smooth, creamy looking candle at all times and you very rarely see the cottage cheesy look that sometimes comes with 415, most fragrances work well in C3, there is a less frosting, you don't have to pour at such low temps, thus having more time to produce more candles. I will also mention that if you were to work in a very hot environment, it would be difficult for the 415 to set up due to the low pour temp. I will mention that is my own personal opinions and may not be that of others:smiley2:

IMO I like palm but I believe that it is a harder beast to tame than soy in many ways!!!! Palm wax in the raw state is supposed to last only 1 year so you need to make sure that you use it up before then. Not sure how long it lasts in a candle, maybe Stella knows?

They look great, but I think you should fill them a little more as they look a little on the "ran out of wax" side and the libbey interlude is just lovely. Are you putting lids on them?

Palm and soy are different creatures, but parrafin is always going to have a good scent throw. I might add that I hate colouring the parrafin as it does sweat and cause colour all over everything. We are going the sustainaible waxes due to customers request. My personal fav is now soy as there is no cleaning of molds, etc.

As I said in the other thread, I chose veggie waxes because they are new and represent a challenge. That they come from readily renewable resources is also a big factor in my decision. I don't label my product as "natural" because there is nothing natural about the way most vegetable waxes are derived. It's a bogus term meant to trick people into thinking they are getting something more wonderful than they really are. It ain't "green" either.

The soy-palm wars are as full of disinformation as the paraffin-soy wars for the same greedhead, economic-based reasons. Palm oil (41.31 million tons) is the most widely used cooking oil in the world, followed by soy (37.54 million tons). Rapeseed (canola) follows (18.24 million tons). All are used for cooking, SVO use and biofuels. Using palm wax is no more likely to contribute to deforestation than soy or paraffin - they ALL contribute when unethical people damage their environments to make room for mega-operations which prey on the lack of economic choices of indigenous populations. Columbia, Nicaragua, Malaysia, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and the Philippines are the world's largest producers of palm oil. Orangutans are not indigenous to all of those places. Many wax suppliers are critically aware of the economic & environmental impacts and are producing their products wisely and fair trading it. Some are not. CandleScience, for example, took great care in choosing the source for their palm wax products.

Orangatangs are indegenous to Malaysia. Yes there are a lot of companies that are RSPO approved.

I find the liquid dyes much easier as they are quicker for high production runs.

For my own sanity, I always get a cheap napkin before I pick up a bottle. I keep the napkin around it till I finish it, then put it back in plastic shoebox. You see, I have a DH that is a disaster around liquid dyes. He gets more on his hands than in the wax. Carole

I do the same bar the plastic shoebox and DH is the same:rolleyes2

I have had the exact same dye from the same company and had a variation in intensity. You would need to recheck colour each time you open a new bottle and record any changes in the amount of drops etc you used.

We use essential oils in palm and soy wax and they kick butt with their hot throw throughout the whole candle. We have never had a problem with them being less potent or not lasting the whole candle. I think it is a bit of a myth that they are less strong than FO. An example is citronella 1oz per pound in C3 - the whole house hums with the smell rather than the mozzies!!

I like their fragrances a lot and their service is very good

Yup, I would hate for the glass to be too hot, thanks for your imput you 2

Hi all. We always test for 1hr per inch of candle diameter, then do a power burn once we have established the proposed wick. Here is a big question: Most customers burn for an hour or 2, so in a container that should be burn't for 4 hours, they are burning for a much shorter time, thus they end up with a lot of wax left in the container? I can get all the wax consumed in the above testing methods, but if they burn as they do, then they could be very disappointed that their candle doesn't do the burn time as stated and there is wax left. I hate to wick to big, but if I do as the customer does, then I am safe with a bigger wick. This is totally against the grain, but is something that I am very concerned with. Any comments in this regard?

When mixing 2 colours, never, ever leave the mixture until you have added both. Make sure you add all your FO too before going to answer the phone etc, you will have a ruined pink batch of unscented candles which are useless!!

Well said Steve. Maybe we can call it FMP obsession. You have to be able to read a newspaper through the melt pool in the first few burns or it's considered underwicked.

Since the burns tend to get so much hotter towards the bottom, you don't usually need that much firepower to use up the wax. What I call a clean burn isn't no wax left, but rather no black left.

You have to choose a good minimum burn time for testing too. If you burn a candle for less than 3 hours as your standard test, you're likely to overwick it. I can't think of any candle I'd test at less than 3 hours.

I never have a full melt pool till right at the bottom and my glass isn't 100% clean (much like a milk residue) but I am happy and so are my customers. The most important things are that it doesn't tunnel and there are thick wax sides, or that the glass gets far too hot and black soot around the sides.

I like RRDs in palm.

Bigass palm wax candles ARE a bugger to wick. Because palm burns so differently from other waxes, it doesn't lend itself nicely to multiple wicking (although one triple wicker I did turned out okay). Because it's so hard and melts at a higher temp than most soy, one would think that a bigger wick would be better; but I have found that palm burns best with a smaller flame than one would imagine. It takes a LOT of patience to test these because it is such a slow, steady burner. If one expects all vestiges of hangup to be gone by the third burn, it will drive you crazy because palm wax is slow to clear hangup and often does so during the last third of the candle when the container heats up. If you get a nice clean burn during the first half of the candle, it's even money that baby is gonna be a hot tamale at the end. For big 'uns, try using large single CDNs. I use a 22 for a 5" 16 point star pillar (4" diameter to the inside of the "v") and get a nice even 3½" burn tunnel straight down the middle... I realize y'all are talking about containers, but I've found there's a lot of similarity between wicking palm wax containers & big pillars that are designed to leave a shell. The shell acts a little like the container does except it doesn't reflect back quite so much heat.

Me either, although I have not tested it with a bunch of different wicks - I stick with CDs & CDNs mostly. I use square braid in some of our molded candles and they never made the candle smell odd either...

I agree with you Stella, the palm always burns down and then out, that is the nice thing about it in a container because you get such a lovely crystal glow through it. If it has a full melt pool too soon, then it is wicked too large and will have huge flames and lots of black soot on the glass. Sometimes it looks as though the flame is too small, but that is only for a short time, then the hangup starts to melt and the candle is perfect

Ivory should do the trick