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Some people sell straight soy wax candles and say you can use the melted wax to rub into the skin. There are no butters or oils in the wax. Comments, please???

I have tried Candlewic and theirs is very good in soy

Ta, Stella. Lovely smooth tops. Do you ever get the wax lifting slightly by the wick? It looks almost like you moved the wick once it set up and it broke a bit of the wax.

Hope ya gals all get better soon!

RRD 29,34 and 40 depending on FO

Stella-You changed your picture. have been working so hard on my candles, I hadn't noticed, haven't been on the board in a while.

I showed the hubby the pictures you recently posted of your candles WOW I can't beleive you would change after all the work and testing they are beautiful.:yay::yay:I too will be trying that wax. Before you jump ship I might have to buy one of your beauty's to put on the shelf for an inspiration or just burn it:laugh2::laugh2:

Can't wait to see what is going to happen when this wax hits the Presto's.

Linda

Please tell me where these pictures of Stellas are, could not find them

What length did you trim the wick before the burns? 1/4" is plenty long enough. What's the inside diameter of the container?

Personally, I think the burn is looking pretty good. Because CDs & CDNs have a self-trimming stance, they burn hotter on the side of the curl. You need to keep the heat centered in the container to prevent a lopsided burn, which may require turning the container during the burn or recentering the wick at the end of each burn period.

From your photos, the flame doesn't look objectionably high, considering where it is in the container.

Keep on burnin'. How's the top looking after it cools? Nice & smooth? Any frosting around the edges of the MP?

Good job!

I agree with Stella, your candle is burning very well. I don't think the flame is too big and no big melt pool. What made you pour at that temp? Well done

Never had a problem with HT and essential oils, ever!

Well, the Vybar 343 sounds like it's specifically made for 4045H and IGI 1274, so I'd expect it would at least allow more FO or prevent sweating if it does anything. (Though, yes, I see you as much as said that it doesn't do anything...)

The other Vybars would be the first thing I'd try if using Yaley or other non-mottling wax, sure. The pits would be all the more annoying on an un-mottled candle.

Stearic didn't do much other than reduce mottling (even at 2%) in 1343 but it might be worth another try in the 1274. Perhaps since it's made to mottle, the effect will hold up.

Except for a few poured for special effect at 140-150, I've always poured paraffin at 175-185. That would be the easiest process change to try so I'll give that a go today. Esp since mold release has been easy, and burning almost perfect once I wicked down vs. 1343. Also, I'd rather not use additives with a pre-blend without trying other things first...

Vybar 343 does 1 thing and that is make the candle burn better without such a big flame

Not too long ago, I have bought diffuser oil from Natures Garden, 1 sample of FO and the reeds (Diffuser kit with box and glass too). You need to mix it the way they state on on their website. I only bought 1 diffuser kit and absolutely loved it and the whole room was filled with fragrance for 3 months at least. I only turned the reeds once a week. I will certainly be happy with results like that when I start making mine!!!

I am using ecosoya 135, 1/2 tbsp usa pp, 3 tsp Co pp, they are burning great.

The reason I'm asking is I too am trying a curved square jar, (not strait) but I am using the large wood wick from canlewick and I want to color these because I was told the crackle comes from the FO, Color, and wax combo, they are burning good but not alot of crackle, I'm worried about the frosting issue it of course shows more with the color, thats why the question about the tempering, making the jar adhesion and color better. I have learned (on this board) about putting a drop of black for a more vibrant deeper color and it works with the palm Glass glow. so I want to try with the wood wick combo. but the frosting yuk.

Linda

We use a curved round jar and do have some problems with complete adhesion to the sides on quite a few occassions, however, we like our jar and can live with a few wet spots. Many of the popular well known brands who use 100% soy have wet spots in their straight jars/glass!!

I love my naturewax C3 on its own, no additives, and We get lovely CT and HT. People bul.....t till the cows come home, you just have to do your research.

I'm happy with a milky residue on my glassware. Still get long burn time and not too hot a glass. Customers are happy.

Stella, doesn't the flame become very small for a period of 2-3 hours? Just asking as when I wick my palm pillars to get a shell, there is a bad stage where the flame is quite small and there is not much light coming through due to the thick wall. I love your pictures.

Perfect wax = no TESTING....

Yeah, right!!!!

Thanks, yes it does take a lot of testing and some FO are very thick so clog the reeds. I would agree that buying from peaks is good for testing and their products are good.

I reuse my test glassware many times, nver had any problems

Thank you for responding. I read some posts and visited Peak candle supplies. Their kits look interesting - I might just try some. I don't really like the pillars much as I like a strong scent so I probably will start with some container candles.

Pillar candles can scent a whole room without even being lit so don't be too quick to put them out of the picture. My pillars are always a topic of conversation when people walk into a room and they smell divine, they also have been known to scent peoples shops bringing in lots of customers!!!

Anyone know where to find reeds, bottles diffusers kits, etc that are for bulk purchase, ie manufacturers or the likes. Ta

Thanks all, I compared it to lamb fat from a roast lamb. Can clean up with soap and water, but definately not water soluble.

Companies/people selling soy wax candles say it is water soluble????? :confused::confused:

I agree, the wick sounds too big which will cause smoking with beeswax. The burn time should also be longer.

Wick down, your glass will get too hot.

It's really interesting that cream of tartar is a by-product of wine. This is totally unrelated to "candles" or "candies" but I use it to make apple juice. Throw washed, unpeeled, quartered apples in a bucket, throw in some cream of tartar, cover with boiling water for 24 hours, strain and process! Delicious! Oh yah, if it sits much longer than that, it gets winey.

Correct me if I am wrong, but cream of tartar is a fruit from a tree. It is found in a hard green pod, it is in individual fruits inside this pod. Grows on trees in zimbabwe.

Love your website. I agree, don't mention too many times about the benefits of soy. I agree that you should put care and safety on the same page. Well done.