7 Pawz

I love the Igi 1343 for pillars and votives, the scent throw is great and they are a pretty candle too.

What kind of wax do you use? soy, paraffin, blends, etc? Container waxes are generally of a lower melting point than pillar wax. That means the pillar wax will not melt as easily as the softer container wax and the scent throw won't be good because there will not be a big enough melt pool to reach the edges of the container. The pillar wax would probably burn a "tunnel" in the middle of the container. The wick would probably drown out. Brightness of color is determined by the wax, scent, and possibly other factors. You should not have to poke relief holes in your container candle if you use a container wax for that purpose, maybe just top it off. I would suggest using a wax meant for containers--testing your wax,scent, wick, dye, etc. There are many types of wax that you could test, maybe order a sample of a particular one. Some may suggest wicking up if you use the pillar wax, but as for me, I don't feel comfortable with that, why do that when a container wax blend, paraffin, soy or whatever you choose to go with will work the way its intended. Good luck and htp

And to think I thought about switching to soy:D Considering there are more cons than pros, think I'll stay with paraffin,palm, or beeswax. But, thats not to say that i won't try soy anyway, I like to play with different types of wax, just because i love to make candles in a variety of ways.

agree with illuminated gifts, maybe you should add the FO around 170-180. I don't use this wax, but that is the temp that I add the FO. How long do you cure the tarts? so many things could be affecting the scent throw. hope you get it worked out:smiley2:

From my research, square braid is the recommended wick for beeswax, however, I have a local source, 2 miles from me:cheesy2: I am testing votives now, using a lx wick.

GloryBee Foods has one:cheesy2:

Well said, Candle Man; I have used stearic + 1.5 fo in that wax, when it comes out of the mold, it has some fo on the sides, after a week of curing, that's gone, so far, i've made votives this way, and the burn has been good, but with the pillars, they tend to foliate.

LOL:laugh2: Oh well

You're not the only one:) I brought 12 the day after christmas from the Yankee Store in the mall, couldn't resist the scents I told myself it was just for comparision and research!

I am using mason jars, apothecary,tumblers, etc. can't seem to settle on just one type of jar:) some of my customers have asked for something besides the mason jar, so I've tried to use & test other containers. I've been testing the Lx's & cd's wick lately with the J223, not sure about them yet. So far, the zinc and htps's work for me now. hope all works out for you:)

They look great:cheesy2:

I keep unscented, undyed wax in my presto, when I transfer the wax, I preheat my pouring picture and measuring glass.

top: i use the htps, I never thougt about the ECO, I may like them better. I've tried the cd's in J223, and liked the fact that I had virtually no soot, no matter the burn, but the cd's seem to "snake"? looked like they'd move off center.

I use J223 and htp wicks, and love them:cheesy2: I also use the htp's in high density gel.

I've received 2 issues so far, and think I will like it.

congratulations!

The wax should still be good, as long as it was stored properly. I am using beeswax that was stored at least 10 yrs and made votives from it and the votives are burning great!

I have the OV ww in clean cotton and love it! it's a light scent, yet powerful enough that it scents the house so far, the burn is clean on this one, trimming the wick is easy, just let it cool, turn candle upside down over the trash can and with your finger, just flick the wick lightly and that's it. maybe other scents will soot, like some will or won't if I use cotton wick, the wax has not made a full melt pool, but the scent throw is great, and if any wax is left, i'll just put it into a burner.

I like the woodwick candle, just something different; ordered the small woodwicks from c&s and plan to make them for personal use. I'm sure your mom loves all the candles you've made for her. Being a candlemaker ain't easy:cheesy2: ever notice that those who don't make candles are so happy to tell you how to make them? It won't be the last time either:cheesy2:

I use Bergamont & Spruce from Alabaster, no fuel smell, one of my best sellers:cheesy2:

I'd like to know how you've managed to learn the craft and test burn all of your fragrances, all the way through in less than 2 weeks while trying to figure out the right temp to pour. It appears to me that you came here for quick answers to just make a candle and sell it. In other words, you appear as someone that is here to use the advice of professionals who have spent alot of time, tears and money to perfect their craft to allow you to make a quick buck. I hope for your sake nothing bad happens to someone that purchased one of your candles. Do you have insurance or is god going to tell you where to find the infamous pot of gold under the rainbow when or if you're sued? __________________ Christine Can I get an AMEN?:smiley2:

No, they are not. They are used primarily because of their rigidity. They also burn cooler and mushrooming is common behavior for zinc wicks, regardless of the fo or wax used, so I have read. Heck, if Y makes it acceptable, what can I say? If you'd like more info, go to candles.org and the international guild of candle aritisans. I may be mistaken, but I thought that I read that zinc wicks contain about .0006 per cent of lead, which is the gov. accepted levels. All lead wicks were banned in the U S and in 1974, they(candlemakers and various assoc.'s) agreed not to use Lead wicks, then I think sometime in 2000 or 2003, it became law. I THINK:D

Candlewic has a liquid white dye.