Jump to content

realmarcha

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    329
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by realmarcha

  1. Welcome aboard Rocky: Bittercreek Candle Supply is in Ashland, Wisconsin. When I order from there, their shipping starts out in Ironwood, MI. (Upper Pennisula). Not as close as you would like, but it would save on shipping costs. I am about 22 miles northwest of Ann Arbor and can drive to Southern Scentsations. Beth and Doug are great to work with and have excellent products too. Still close enough to you to save on shipping costs. You will find as you experiment that one supplier will NOT be enough since there are so many products out there to have fun with. Website addy for Bittercreek: http://www.candlesupply.com/ Hope this helps you out!
  2. Try the link below. I do not know if any of the suppliers are close to you, but it is worth a try. http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/Suppliers_by_State.html Hope this helps!
  3. Welcome aboard Mary and to the wonderful, frustrating world of soy!
  4. First off, what soy pillar wax are you trying to work with? You can reheat the wax, but will have to add a bit more fragrance since some of it will be burned off in the reheating process. Also, keep in mind, the wax that is reheated may, and I say may, not burn the same as wax that has not been, but is worth a try. We need a bit more information to help you! Specifically, the wax used.
  5. I do not use the C3 wax, but have tested it. If my memory serves me correctly, I used a 60-44 cotton, or a 62 cotton in a 3" jar. HTH
  6. You could try the LX30, but I am pretty sure it is a cooler wick than the 62 cotton. I have been using the cotton wicks for years and still have not found a wick line that is hotter. A wick line that is comparable to the cotton wick line is the Ultra Core wicks from Fil-Tec. The Ultra Core 2.6 and 2.7 are comparable to the 62 cotton, and the Ultra Core 3.0 is hotter than the 62 cotton. Other wicks HOTTER than the 62 cotton are HTP1212, HTP1312, CD22, and possibly the HTP126. I have play around with the Premier 700 wick line, and their hottest wick almost compares to the 62 cotton. Hope this helps some.
  7. Try the links below, they may help you! http://members.iinet.net.au/~campbell1/links.htm http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/Suppliers_by_State.html Have a Happy New Year!
  8. I am not sure about the TM ones, but I think the TM would mean their fragrance is Trade Marked, not the name. Not sure though, so I would call The Scent Works and ask them if is OK to use the scent name. Hope this helps. Let us know what you find out!
  9. There are a few things to look for: 1. The wick putting out black smoke 2. Your melt pool becoming to large. EX. a 3" container having a full melt pool within an hour, or two...should take at least three hours. Your melt pool being to deep. I like mine to stay within 1/4" - 1/2", but no deeper than a 1/2" even after burning for 5 to 6 hours. 3. Your wick jumping around to much...you will usually see puffs of black smoke coming off the wick when it is jumping/bouncing around. Most wicks will flicker some in a jar since the oxygen level becomes less once the wick burns down into the jar. This is acceptable as long as there is no black smoke/soot. 4. Your melt pool burns down the middle instead of spreading out towards the sides of the jars. A good burn should melt the wax down and out; not straight down leaving wax around the jar diameter. I know I have probably missed something so hopefully someone else can jump in here and help too. Hope this helps some.
  10. If you do not want to rename the fragrances, you do not have to. I use some of the supplier's fragrance names and have changed some too. Whatever you choose to do is fine. HTH
  11. Finally, I am back...got shot down by a nasty flu bug and had a flu shot this year on top of it. I haven't had time to test much, but do have an update on adding the 100% 415 soy wax to the 449. I added the 100% soy at 10% and at 20%...both candles came out just awful. The tops were all bumpy and cratered, but the scent throw is fantastic. So back to the drawing board. After seeing my post about adding the 100% soy, Jason contacted me and asked me how it went. After telling him my awful results, he suggested I add 5% - 10% of the 402 soy, which is a lower melt point soy. I have not had the time to do so, but will be testing again within the next couple days. I will post my results. As far as wicking this wax, I have found the cotton wicks do very well. In a 3" container, I am using either a 60-44 cotton, or a 62 cotton. If I need a hotter wick, I use the HTP1212, HTP1312, CD22. In some of my fragrances, I can use the same cotton wick I always have, but in others I have to wick up one size. Hope this helps someone. More to come! Happy New Year everyone!
  12. What happen to my other posts about the 449? I cannot find them! Update: I love the cold/hot throw and the NO frosting. However, I am having a hard time getting a smooth top . I have poured at 130, 140, 160, and now 155; the 155 are still setting up. I am hoping I can achieve a smooth top since this would be my NEW choice for wax. I have read all the posts and am trying all pouring suggestings. I did add a bit of 100% soy tonight to see if this would make a difference: one candle with 10% and the other with 20%. I will keep you posted on my testing results for these new testers. The burn on my other 3 testers couldn't be better. The cold and hot throws are wonderful. I use 10% fragrance for the most part; cotton wicks, and color flakes. More to come! Happy Holidays santa chee
  13. Hello Lizzie: You will probably get more responses to your question if you post it on the Vegetable Wax site. There are pros and cons to all waxes. I have used soy wax for almost 6 years and have had great success with it when it comes to the hot and cold throw. You just have to test, test, test. What may throw in paraffin; may not throw in soy, so buy small fragrances testers and test away. I am testing a new soy/veggie wax from Golden Brands (449) and am really liking it. I have not completed my testing yet, but am leaning towards changing to this wax since it does NOT frost with color. I have to get the pouring temperature down to a science so I can get a smooth top, and if this is possible, I will probably change waxes. There is alot of information on the Vegetable Wax site right now on the Golden Brands new waxes and a ton of other information on all kinds of soy/veggie waxes. HTH Have a Merry Christmas santa big
  14. My 449 test results so far: Honeysuckle Jasmine: Heated to 175*; added yellow color flakes and 10% fragrance. Poured at 144*. It set up with a bit of roughness around the wick, but a very nice looking candle. The cold throw is GREAT! The hot throw; after only 12 hours cure time is also GREAT. Decided to pour another fragrance at a higher pouring temperature 161* with Country Clothesline. Heated to 180*; added navy blue color flakes and 10% fragrance. It is setting up now, but already has a hole by the wick and is sinking. Next tester I am going to pour cooler than 144* and see what happens, since the higher pouring temp, 161*, gave me a worse top than the 144* pour temp. I will keep you all posted. If I can get the 449 to pour with a smooth top, I am leaning towards this one since the cold and hot throw are GREAT and just what I am looking for. Also, no frost! The 444 is also a good wax, but the cold and hot throw, in my opinion, is not as good as the 449. Hopefully, suppliers will carry both since there are so many different opinions on these two waxes. Have a great day! santa wink
  15. I use Southern Scentsations' Patchouli...very true scent and a bit easier to wick than others I have tried. In a 3" diameter jar I use an HTP1212 and it works GREAT!. www.greatcandle.com HTH Edited to say: This Patchouli was tested in soy wax before Southern Scentsations decided to carry it.
  16. Check out Wholesale Supplies Plus. IGI has renamed the J50 and J223 waxes, so it looks like IGI will continue to carry them, but under a different name/number. Website addy: http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/Product.aspx?Tab=2&CatalogID=3&GroupID=319&CatalogTitle=0&CategoryID=436&CategoryName=IGI%e2%84%a2 Hope this helps!
  17. If so, I would appreciate your opinion of the wax. Any information will be useful. TIA
  18. If so, I would appreciate your opinion of the wax. Any information will be useful. TIA
  19. 444 testing update: Burned the Apple Jack today for 7 hours straight in a 2 3/4" jar...had a +1/4" melt pool and good hot throw. I have a bit of candle nose right now, so am thinking the hot throw is probably better than what I can smell right now. Burned less than 24 hours after pouring. I am going to let this one sit now for a couple days then relight to give it some cure time. I am pouring another tester tonight since I did get a circular crack pouring at 130*. After speaking with Jason today, he told me, since I did not have a wick in my tester this could be a part of the cracking problem. He also suggested I pour between 135* - 140*. I am going to try the hotter pour and put a wick in it. Also, for those of you wondering about wicking, Jason suggested I use the same wick I am using now in the Kysoy125. When I test burned the above mentioned Apple Jack, I wicked it the same as my Kysoy125, and it is burning just fine. HTH The jury is still out on this wax, but so far I am liking it! Still need to do more testing for the final verdict!
  20. Something I learned about shipping from S&P. If you have your own shipping account: UPS, FedEx, DHL, just give them YOUR shipping account number and the shipping cost is practically cut in half. I learned this the hard way. I called S&P about the HIGH shipping cost, and they informed me of the above information. Now, I ask all companies about their shipping rates and how they process it to make sure I am getting the best rate possible. HTH
  21. Actually the 126 is SUPPOSE to be the hottest HTP right now according to the Atkins & Pearce catalog. I have found it to be cooler than the 1312, but hotter than the 1212. The 1212 may be too hot also for a 3" jar depending on fragrance. I do use the 1212 in a few 3" jars for my real hard to burn fragrances, but mostly use the 60-44 and 62 cottons. If you have any, I would try a 60-44 cotton, or a 62 cotton depending on the fragrance you are using. I switch between HTPs and cottons for my inbetween sizes. HTH
  22. Just poured my first tester with the 444 and am waiting for it to set up. I heated to 180*; used color flakes at one measured Pinch; used 10% Apple Jack fragrance. I will report further results tomorrow. Jar used: a 6 oz. tumbler. Anyone getting ANY frosting with the 444? Would really be nice if there is finally a soy wax out there that does NOT frost! :highfive: Edited to update test results: Once the candle set up I did have a circular crack in the middle of the top. Will try pouring a bit cooler and pour one a bit hotter tomorrow to see what happens with the cracking.
  23. Wick It website is: www.wickit.net Phone number: 866-3WICKIT Owner, Joe Blythe. Edited to say: Actual company name Wick n' Clip, Inc. HTH
  24. Been using soy for almost 6 years. It does sound like you need to wick up. What soy wax are your using and what size container? Are you using color, and what percentage of fragrance? Can help more if I had these answers.
×
×
  • Create New...