Everito Bandito

At one point in time you could type a phone # into a google search and get the addy. They have done away with that feature = good riddance!

I think I'd just tell them all to go to hades.... Seriously. I'd also let them keep thinking that my site had viruses, trojan horses and anything else that they don't want.

I never deal with a company that doesn't provide a phone # and a street address on their website. That's an immediate red flag to me. Unless I'm just not looking in the right place, I can only find a phone # on her website. No street address.

How hot was your wax when you tried stirring in the oil? You may try raising the temp and stirring more.

Freaky!

That one looks pretty darned good! Looks like you're well on your way!..

The only time I've ever had that happen was with the 4625, I'm glad I only bought 10 lbs. to play with. I won't be buying any more. It really sux when you make a nice looking candle and then a few days later you look at it and it's got the fingernails. Once before when the subject of fingernailing came up, someone suggested heating the wax to over 200 and letting it cook for about 30 minutes before doing anything else with it. I never tried that. I just blended my 4625 (at about 10%) in with some of candlewic's CBL 141 and that particular batch of CBL 141 was doing the brainy thing, so the blend cured both the fingernailing and the brainy thing..lol.I had much more of the 141 hence the 10% cut of 4625.

Very Pretty! Hoepfully the nails will stay away and even if they don't maybe they'll be more difficult to see..:smiley2:

Yea but, where's the fun in that? You don't get to play with ice cubes or hot irons...:neener: ...LOL.. ...

Maybe these would be what you're looking for. Maybe not. I have not used them, but they do have a deep red cinnamon block. http://www.jepolish.com/dyes.htm

Basic instructions for making container candles can be found by clicking on the button, "Basic Instructions "of candletech page. http://www.candletech.com/containercandles/ If there is a simple way to tell whether a jar will stand up to the heat, I don't know about it, but here's a good article "Safe Containers". It can be found by clicking the "General Information" button on left column of the page. http://www.candletech.com/safecontainers.htm

I thought she said that she didn't really do it, but just used that as a way to get her point across to her customer, that the candles were already maxed out with fo.

A new creation! What to call it? Ice Orb maybe... Looks pretty cool!

I kind of like that! Reminds me of ice cream...yummy!

He probably doesn't know ya well enough to dislike ya...that didn't sound right did it..LOL.. , also considering the hour (5:10am est), he might not have felt like typing anymore... Or may not have had time before going to work..many possibilities.

Chances are Top and/or Donita (just to name 2 of course) will have some experienced info on this..

Probably none. I bought the 1260 (just one slab to play around with hurricanes) from Aztec over in Knoxville. It was around $14 and with shipping it cost me 20 dollars and some change. The 1260 definitley cost me more pp even if I ordered a case of it than the 1343 does. Here's the link and description of it: http://www.buywax.com/product.asp?specific=jonrioq8 I gather that it has no additives such as vybar or UA or oils, but I don't know what if anything was used to give it the higher melt temp. It must be something because it seems to be harder than 1343. eta: It just might be that whatever is in it to make it a higher melt point temp may also adversely affect mottling. Like maybe micro 180 or something other along those lines. IGI's website and 1260: it's at the bottom of the list and the pdf file doesn't really say anything about what makes it a higher melt point, but that doesn't neccessarily mean that much to me..lol..because I'm not real sure about what I'm reading there anyway.. http://www.igiwax.com/resource/Paraffin_Waxes However, here's a pretty cool article from IGI about mottling that you might find to be educational (you may be familiar with all this stuff already) or at least a fun read. Just click on mottling technical paper http://www.igiwax.com/resource/Papers_Articles Anyway, I'll be watching your thread for other's ideas and to see what you come up with. If I experiment with the 1260 and I probably will unless you beat me to it (and find out it's a no go)...I'll let you know what if anything I find out.

I see. Well maybe a CD wick will give some better results...:smiley2: I've often wondered what would happen if I cut some IGI 1260 into the 1343, in regards to reducing bulging since the 1260 has a higher melt point. It might be worth a try. I'd really like to using a smaller wick than the CD18 and 20's just to reduce flame height if nothing else, but every time I tried a 16 or lower I got bulging pretty much the same as in your pics above. I tried many of the LX series (Like 28 all the way down to 20) also, and just never did get the results I wanted. As far as I know the 1260 is a fully refined straight wax, but it may have some hardeners in it that could possibly effect the mottle. I don't know. I've got wax in my pots right now but I may just experiment with the idea later this week. It would be nice if the 1260 would reduce the bulging and not hurt the mottle.. and allow me to wick smaller. While I'm wishing I might as well wish for the whole package...lol.

You might want to try something like a cd 18 and see if you like it better. I still need to shorten them up to keep flame height down but my wax doesn't tend to bulge as much. Also I'm using 1343 but it's very similar to 4045. 1343 definitley has a tendency to bulge like your 4045 is doing. One other thing that I can think of that you might want to try is to pre-wax (Prime) your 30 ply. Some ideas on that can be found here:http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1997 Here is a rustic candle that I power burned with a CD 20. You can see where some soot collected on the inside edge, but I never had to touch it regarding bulging or hugging. It was scented with amaretto nog. (fwiw) I've often gotten basically the same results with a CD 18, sometimes a little bulging but not a whole lot.

Lower the temp to about 170 or even down to 150 if you want to. You can still get mottles at lower temps. I generally pour rustics at 150 - 155 and they mottle most of the time. The snow flakes might not be as big or spread out as wide, but they're usually some there. The screws are to put in the wick holes when *not * using wick pins.

1343 is a versatile pillar wax that is fully refined and is without additives. You can add your own additives to make mottles and rustics with it or even mottled rustics.. It's a good wax. Have fun with it.

LOL - that's pretty funny!

One thing's for certain LemonJelly, you don't give up easy. I'm pulling for you and I think some others on this board are too. Hopefully you will be able to post a pic or two of some of your first candles when you get them done. I have no doubt in my mind that you will get some done. Keep asking questions and doing what you're doing. With the desire that you seem to have to succeed, I can't imagine that you will do anything else but succeed...

I think that it would be best to try to identify the wax first and foremost. Is it hard to the touch or sticky. If it's more of a silver gray in apperance and real hard it's probably optimal for pillars. If it's more of a white color then it's possible that it's optimal for containers. Thing of it is, even if it's designed for pillars you can still melt it and put it into a container if you want to. Wick it and it will burn and be a candle..:smiley2: It just might rattle a little if you shake the jar. I would'nt add crisco thinking that it will make a wax that's optimal for pillars into a wax that's going to become optimal for containers.

Leave the candle in the mold whilst you're leveling. If using wick pins, put the wick pin in upside down to keep the melted wax from running up the wick hole.