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Beth-VT

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Everything posted by Beth-VT

  1. When we flew to CA (Valium in hand for me, lol) we sent them ahead via Fed-Ex. If that isn't an option, the tins (not breakable) will be fine in your checked baggage. I would wrap them well in bubble wrap or foam, something to help with dings in case the bag is opened and searched (they don't always put things back in the same spot ) and for insulation as well.
  2. Danielb is correct. 3 parts 'A' and 1 part 'B' = 4 parts. 10ml divied by 4 = 2.5ml for each part. 3 parts 'A' = 7.5ml 1 part 'B' = 2.5ml It's just like percentages. Take 100 and divide it by however mnay parts you have. 100 divided by your 4 parts = 25...or 25% for each part
  3. Like Sharyl said, I would burn it all the way down before you decide. I'm getting a bit fuller melt pool across the flats than yours appears to, but the corners still don't catch up till I'm about 1/2 way down the container. I'm using a para/soy blend and diff. wicks, so that's probably the difference. Keep burning
  4. Oh thank you!!! That is too funny....I was trying like mad to find this last night. I knew it was there, but was going through the link for CP tutorial from the Candletech page and it was only going to Robin's home page. I knew she had there somewhere
  5. Those look great!! Think I might try my leftover Astor Q in them. I think a crystalized wax would look awesome in them. 1 wick should be plenty for these...I really can't see having to use 2. You may have some hangup on the first several burns, but by the time you get a bit further down the container the corners will catch up. Come on peeps, I'd like to see others who got these in the co-op post some pics as well
  6. Try the wick-stickums (available at several suppliers). As long as your jar bottom is clean (free of dust and oil or wax residue) they stick like mad and don't come off. To get down in deeper jars, put a stickum on the end of your tab, slip a straw over your wick (cut the straw just short enough that you can grab the end of the wick) and stick down to the center of the jar. Be sure and then push firmly on the wick tab with something like the end of a wick bar, or a wooden spoon, etc. Press firmly in 2-3 places and those babies won't move HTH.
  7. I get all mine at Foose as well. Best selection and best prices
  8. I've never found parchment labels as I've a need for them too and have looked and looked. Your next best bet would be to insert a parchment background graphic into your label itself as the back layer, then it will just print out on regular white labels. I do this and it actually works well...you can then adjust brightness or whatever to get better match. HTH.
  9. The wick pins can go either inside or outside. I have seamless alum. molds that allow an inside fit, but my two piece molds are a tad bit smaller and they won't fit. When using them on the outside (for concave top molds, not flat ones), I've found it works better to use the next size up at least. I mean: for 2" pillars the 2" wick pin is too convex for the mold to sit flat w/o wobbling, but if you use a 3" pin, it sits nice and flat. Same thing for a 3" pillar...I use a 4" pin. Of course using sealer around the pin too.
  10. Oooo....I trhought it was 140° or below. Check on USPS's site, they have it listed I know cuz I just read it the other day
  11. In cleaning out my office I came across a publication I received at a large show I did last October. It's called ACF News (Arts, Crafts & Festival News) and covers the Eastern United States. It has write up's on various shows and festivals, tips for vendors, but more important contains listings for craft shows (6 months in advance) in eastern states and gives: Dates & Times Brief show description Requirements for submissions (such as jury req's, pics, etc.) Booth fees Show attendance General range $$ of items sold at show ...and more... It covers states from Florida to Maine, Indiana to the East Coast It does not include every small local home town show, mostly larger establlished stuff, but I think anything that is submitted is listed, roughly about 1200 listings. This may not be helpful to most, but maybe some. Here's the link that gives contact info and sub's rates, etc. HTH. ACF News
  12. Good advice given above. Mottling is displacement of oxygen molecules by the oil as it migrates out of the candle...the whitish effect you see is actually little teeny tiny air pockets/cracks where the oil no longer is. Think of a worm farm, lol, all those skinny little tunnels left behind . Higher %'s of oil cause more mottling, but you WILL have to clean up the bleeding. 4045H is a great mottling wax and I find it very consistent once you find your groove. Not all FO's react the same, and some won't mottle very well. You can add 2-4% of Vybar-343 to increase to load and help control the bleeding without affecting the mottle. HTH.
  13. If it's any help, they measure 3-1/2 across the corners. I told HS that I dont use zincs so can't help there, but I use a CD-8/10 in a para/soy blend and it works great. There's no way you'll need to double wick these, once you get the MP across the flats the corners should clean up from the heat of the tin.
  14. You guys have all gone blind from......lol! I see the pic just fine As for the wick, I tend to agree a bit with 'Dat'. I use a CD-10 in mine and get no hang up at all, but also no soot either. It will depend a bit on your wax and wick type as to your results. Having said that, the hangup you have isn't bad at all. If it burns good and doesn't smoke or soot, you could call it good, but I would still test again with a larger wick, or a different type. HTH.
  15. She wanted to try something that I had, so I sent her some, and in return she sent me some wonderfull stuff (much more than she should have). Have to say I got the better end of the deal. If any of you get the chance, her soy lotion is to die for !! Thanks again Carmen, you're a doll!!!
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