chuck_35550

My point was to glean all the different combinations that people are using and then test them to decide on a formula. I bagged all the different combos last night and labeled them by a test number with the formula listed. I have doubled these formulas by adding coconut oil and I plan to use the same fragrance on all testers for the purpose of determining best cold/hot throw, best appearance (using a heavy baker oil) and then begin changing out wicks to see which combo works. I have been selling candles for three years using clarus 70/30 (GL) and its time to switch to a local distributor for a cheaper bottom line. Thanks everyone for your help (I'll have to add Brenda's version later). I have enough of my old wax to fill orders (I hope) and then it will be on to test all my existing fos (a ton). Thanks Steve

That helps! Thanks bunches. Steve

I use Glad Press and Seal to protect uncovered containers. I cut a round piece out and stretch it across and form a seal. I have even left them on when selling and customers can lift the seal and put it back on. It does leave a residue around the side of the container but you can take that off easily.

I agree with Stella. People only notice how a candle smells they don't much care about the rest. I had some frosted flower pot containers that wouldn't sell at all. Still got a box full of them. Steve

Does anybody use the 70/30 J-223/415 blend? I have been advised that this is a really good formula for ht/ct. I poured at 180 degrees into a 12 0z room temp salsa jar with 8% fo and used a 62z wick. The ct is wicked but the h/t is just ok but there was 0 adhesian to the container wall and it really mushroomed. What am I doing wrong? Steve

Ok I did and thanks.

BW Sandalwood Cardamom is the same as Peakes Sage & Citrus BW Gingerbread Latte is the same as JBN Pumpkin Frapp Bert's Lemon Biscotti Pie is the same as NG Lemon Pound Cake BW Black Irish is the same as Flickers Green Irish Tweed

I know that fo distributors have to rename most of their fos but its such a waste when you get one that is obviously a well known and used fo. If it is really citrus and sage and you name it something else; at least hint that it is comparable to citrus and sage. I bet at least half of the fos are just the same formula floating around under a dozen different names that have gone out of popularity. Its different when I sell it to a customer as whatever I name it but man I wish these guys woudl give us a heads up on their formulations being similar to whatever. Sorry about the rant.

Get a heat gun. I remelted some candles that had been on the shelf for a while and they still had a strong ct but when poured into new containers had very weak ht.

Pouf for me. The soap lasts longer.

Who is your nearest supplier? See what they offer and go from there. If you are lucky enough to have a nearby supplier; you can gain a lot of help and knowledge locally.

Using Clarus 70/30 I used three LX 16s and got a good result. The 12s might work but you may need to wick down. IMHO.

Well, I used a bar this morning and it was great. Lots of creamy lather and had all the properties I ususally associate with goats milk soap. I took my soap out after an hour of 100 degrees and there wasn't an alligator skin look to it but a more translucent appearance. I did spritz the tops with 98 alcohol to prevent ash and this might have contributed to the appearance as well. Otherwise, I just might keep gelling all my soaps ( I have a Kelsei too).

Add .5 oz fo? or more? But yes that's the right mix.

You guys sure are right! I poured as directed and got a great looking, wow ct/ht candle. Thanks so much for that valuable information. Steve

Stella is right, as far as, she has established her wax formula and knows how her wax reacts to most fos in a particular container. It doesn't always work out but most of the time it does. Yes you will feel like you are going in circles with wick testing, but if your wax is not performing in the container you have selected; then you made need to make adjustments to your wax or try another container. You're looking for good cold throw, heat throw, and conservative fuel consumption with the type wick you have chosen. You just have to learn your wax first and that takes time and money. Stella is right when she emphasizes that this is what works for us. You will develop your own technique for testing that feels comfortable to you.

I take testers to the office and let the secretary burn them out front. During the day I collect data about the candle and get feedback from everyone who comes in and out of the office. Steve

Try a warming pad. You could put it on a timer and keep it on low for enough time to let the candles set up. There are all different sizes available and it should be safe enough. maybe?

let's say that my tumbler comfortably holds 7.5 oz of liquid. I measure out 7 oz of wax and add .5 oz of fragrance oil, mix 2 minutes of color and 2 minutes for the fo and then pour. No wick. Then after the wax has set up for about 24 hrs, I take a meat thermometer and use the metal spike to make a nice hole down the center. I cut off enough wick to fit down to the bottom and then light it and make notes on how the wick behaves with the wax and the fo. If I don't like that combination, I put it out. let it cool and put in another. HTH. Steve

I can't post a pic. My camera was stolen out of my house and I haven't gotten a replacement yet. I am interested to know why you gel yours and maybe you could post a pic of how your bars look. If it wouldn't be too much trouble. I apologize but I just don't have a way to take a pic. Steve

The soap looks nice maybe it will work out ok. Thanks for the freebie.

I would recommend starting with a votive set up. Votives are a good way to get started and relatively inexpensive. Just a word of caution....you can get addicted. No matter what the level. Don't say I didn't warn you. lol

Sorry about that. The basic question is: Do you gel your gm soap? If so, could you kindly give me some base line results to make a comparison with my own results? If not, that's ok. I don't post very often but usually try to provide a pic when one is needed. I know that most people don't gel their gm soap; so it was to be expected that there would be little response. Just fooling around. I do work a full time job as a counselor to troubled children and families; 30 years now. Snarky is kind of a cool word. Thanks for your responses. Steve

Just for kicks, try adding about 1/2 to 1 tsp of coconut oil per pound and see what happens (both with straight 6006 and with the 85/15 blend) and then report back.

Well, since nobody responded, I guess I'll have a monologue. The soap looks pretty good, real firm and strongly fragranced. I'll just have to give it a try in a week or so and see which way it works best. Thanks for the help guys.