soapermom

Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifying agent that allows oil to dissolve with water. here is a good site with recipes. http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_sprays.html

I think that is a common misconception. oil=clogged pores. not always, and most acne breakouts have little to do with oils and everything to do with hormones and bacteria and even PH... proper & frequent cleansing is key more than what you are cleansing with I believe.

this is an acne formula soap my good friend uses, i havent used this one yet, she sells a lot of it though.. might be a springboard to work from. Olive Oil 525 g Palm Kernel Oil 525 g Rice Bran Oil 150 g Grapeseed Oil 300g Sodium Hydroxide 210g Water 225g French Green Clay 3 tbs Lavandin Essential Oil 25 g opt Niaouli Essential Oil 25g opt

ehh too much sugar... gotta keep away the cavaties and the yeasties beasties:shocked2:

actually anything you make homemade is great.... most commercial soaps are full of chemicals, and a lot still contain tallow( like neutrogena) which is pore clogging, go figure... so whatever clean good wholesome soaps ypu make yourself are great for teenage skin!!, clays as additive are awesome for oily skin.

I use one from sunshinesoapworks. I havent had a discoloring prob, but I havent used in white soap, I use this combined with jasmine for a musky jasmine soap and its always tinted light purple.

how is the feel of it?? I imagine it to be very SLICK is it?? right now most of my lotions are very creamy and almost whipped feel to them.. which I love.. but I am intrigued by this stuff..

Most of my recipes are trial and error type:smiley2: , some of my ideas came from HERE!! (maryann is a good inspiration) and some came from http://www.halderman.net/soap/index.html.... lots of good info here and http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/recipe/recipes.asp?category=11 I use WSP all natural white base..I do get the clear for some things, but not much.. and I have used the clear with added titatnium dioxide.. and its NOT the same... I prefer the white base.

are you planning this for personal use or sale? for personal use you can use the distilled water/vodka recipe.. my grandma made her own without alcohol.. (she used rain water and fresh lavendar;) ) if you are planning to sell.. you need to check out cyclo or formulators alcohol.

I have researched everyone who has this.. it runs about 20-30$ a lb, which isnt bad considering how little is used... the 2 places I know who caryy this are the buying group and scent santuary

and be sure to list by order of concentration....

oh gosh.. the list is long.. I have added most every common oil.. I always add castor oil to boost the lather, vit E, I add cocoa and shea butters, dried milk, I add my own lotions to make a really creamy lotion bar similar to dove( mines better though:whistle:) oatmeal,honey,cocoa, cornmeal, apricot kernel and coffee(for scrubby bars) the trick is not what you add.. but a good balance of amounts and retaining hardness and lather.. when I first started with Mp, I had everyone telling me what I CAN'T do with MP, I worked long hours.. proving them all wrong LOL!!

I have has same experience with Clear MP... I dont do any only clear bars anymore.. I do opque amd I add everything under the sun to my MP;) , I will use clear with an opaque for things liek confetti bars.. and they have the added moisturizers in with the opaque curls and other color blocks I throw in.. but on its own.. I dont like this soap.

heres some info I have been reading about it.. The product description from manufacturer literature: Liquid Polymer (LP), contains three main ingredients: A dispersed polymer phase; a continuous carrier phase; and an activator. The polymer phase forms around 50% of the product, with the carrier phase comprising 35%, and an additional 7% is a high HLB non-ionic surfactant. The surfactant activates the LP when it is added to aqueous systems, enabling water molecules to move into the small polymer particles (via osmosis), allowing the polymer particles to swell to 2.5 to 5.0 microns in diameter. The activating surfactant remains outside the polymer particle throughout, allowing emulsification of further oils, silicones, and similar co-ingredients. LP provides effective thickening at levels of 1% with maximum swelling capacity in aqueous systems at 4-6%. The viscosity of LP is not significantly affected by increasing temperatures, and all dispersions are stable after storage at elevated temperatures (up to 85° C.) Even long periods of homogenization do not affect the stability of formulations containing Liquid Polymer. The natural pH of a 2% dispersion of LP is around 6.7. The effective pH range for this polymer is between 5.5-12. Liquid Polymer is not recommended for use in acid conditions. LP is compatible with a wide range of raw materials including: aloe vera, allantoin, proteins, botanical extracts, and vitamins. This thickener can be used to produce cold process emulsions with reduced manufacturing time, and two phases can be mixed in one vessel prior to addition of the thickener. On application to the skin, Liquid Polymer provides a smoothing effect due to the decrease in surface roughness from the polymer particles, coupled with the slip properties observed as particles move over each other. My product description: This stuff rocks!! The first time I used it, I made 3 batches of lotion in less than 15 minutes with NO HEATING and NO NEUTRALIZATION!! (If you're using herbal extracts or herb-infused oils, it's always best to heat that phase so that you kill off all the nasties.) It was amazing to see a dropper of LP swell up 4 cups of water and oil. Used at the lowest concentration of 1%, you get a lotion that's perfect to use with a dispensing cap or a pump. 4% gives you a thick, whipped cream (like body yogurt.) You can actually just drop some of this product into a cup of water and get a nice looking lotion, but you miss out on the great properties and moisturization of oils if you do that. It's fun to watch, though!

anyone used this in their lotion.. I am dying to try it, and wondered if it was worth it, it sounds too good to be true, results wise...

try here http://www.tayloredconcepts.com/

seems the same too me..I am a j223 user.. I have been using the same wax from WSP for years, I havent noticed anything different..

I havent had this problem. I would think if its the candles, the jars as well as walls immediately where you burned them would be covered in soot.. not dispersed through house.

another cute thing, water soluable bags.. I do these wit bubble bath and bath oils& bath milks.. you throw in whatever you want ,seal.. and you toss whole bag into the bath and it dissolves..

I haven't heard of adding beeswax. I never have a prob with soft bars, normally.Sometimes my cocoa butter and shea soaps are a bit softer I use stearic in those bars.

my daughter is not allergic to citric acid in natural form.. like in fruits, or if she is she has no reaction, BUT she is allergic to citric acid as an additive.. she will break out if she eats skittles, or any sour candy that contains a lot of citric acid...

anyone know where I can find some?

I mix my own... I do 1 pt lavendar, 1pt vanilla and 1 pt coconut:eek: but thats a secret.. shhh;)

the kitchen. cannot wait until we get moved.. i wil have a workshop with its own "kitchen".

I make an edible body frosting... I use most of above ingrediants, minus the shea. I do whip it like you would whip shea .