xsami3000x

You could also try doing it as a watermark (somewhere in the graphics section) It would give you a lighter image that you could then print over and still be able to see the words. If you tell me what program you're using I might be able to tell you where to find the watermark option. I used this on some flyers and they really looked good. Sami

Well it was kinda like cookies, I used a "junk drawer tray" from walmart almost like a drawer divider but I dont know what I'd put in it. Poured the clear purple into the bottom only about a 1/2 inch thick, let it harden. Next I popped it out of the tray and used some small cutters I have that are for polymer clay, cake decorating that kinda thing and cut out the hearts. For the bars I just put the hearts in the bottom of the tray they were made in, I played around with it for a while to see how I liked them. Then I just poured in the blue colored opaque, let that set up and then poured the lavender color. Then unmolded and cut into bars. Hopefully that explains it, I should've taken pics of the process. Sami

The paper does play a big role, I just did a search and your's is an inkjet. I don't get the whole 6 color photo ink thing since there are only 3 colors in a kodak machine at the one hour photo. But I'd have to say if you don't think the color is great and can afford a new printer go for it. I don't have any recommendations because my printer has been discontinued but I have heard great things about the HP printers. Sami

Well I have a couple of questions, is it laser or inkjet? This will determine the type of labels you buy, laser printers don't seem to like inkjet paper and vice versa. Since it's a photo printer I assume you've printed color photos or documents on it already? How did they turn out? Nice uniform ink distribution? No white spots where there should be ink? Will you're labels have color on them? If it's inkjet, prints good looking color documents(color on regular paper), and your labels will have color, then I'd say go for it you should be good. I've never used an Epson but from what I've heard the "photo" printers will usually be much better than a printer that is not designed to print graphics. Hope that helps, Sami

I like it! Easy to read, memorable because of the flame. Sami

Thanks so much guys, the massage bars are great for that little bit of exfoliation before shaving you legs. The little hearts were actually cut using my polymer clay "cookie" cutter, stars are up next. The pictures were taken in a mostly dark room with 2 lamps directed at them, makes the wall behind go kinda blury. Sami

Some melt and pour I've been working on top is embedding and layers, my first layers! Bottom is some massage bars with chamomile pieces and scent. Sami

Hi, I use the "sticker" sheets from avery or if they ever had them in stock the cheaper full page label sheets and WordPerfect (similar to microsoft word). I'm making tins so to not have multiple labels or the dreaded round ones I have a single wrap around label that includes my logo, name, phone, made in, and a caution warning, scent, weight, and "hand poured soy wax candle". If you'd like to see my template I can email it to you if you pm me your email addy. Sami

Try looking at the jewelry making suppliers, artbeads.com comes to mind as they have pewter charms (cheap and who cares if it turns you skin green you wont be wearing them) and they also have free shipping! (takes a little bit but no more than ups ground and probably sooner). Sami

Hi all, I'm new and am now on my second test with the 4 oz tins from Peak. I figured tins would be good to start with a) no wet spots no color needed really c) that cute little line to tell you to stop pouring. Plus I haven't really seen them around here and I love labeling (weird yes I know) and I won't take away from the candle with the label. Next I'm onto these little 3 oz votives I found at target (no shipping 3 targets close by). I also agree I never really burn for more than a couple hours so why bother with a huge candle I'll never get to burn. Sami

Thanks for all the compliments, I really got lucky. So far the lx14 is still leaving a film, so I'm going to try one size up side by side and see if its too much. I noticed yesterday after having to terminate a test early that the little tunnel that had started caught up with the next burn. I like that!! Sami

Hi all, I poured my first candles this week. CB 135 peaks cucumber melon peaks 4 oz tin lx 14 wick (will be moving up 1 because of film on sides and length til fmp) I think they came out great smooth creamy tops, burns wonderfully. Any critiques? Sami

Hi everyone This week I poured my first candles. (I have to say they came out great). 4 oz tins from Peaks 2 1/2 in diameter by almost 1 3/4 in tall CB 135 peak cucumber melon lx 14 wick Heated to 150 =/- 5 degrees added fo at 125 poured at 100 They burn great but I'm going to wick up, there is a film of wax on sides and it takes closer to 3 hours than 2 1/2 to reach full melt pool. Should the lx 16 wicks solve these problems? Thanks, Sami (newbie)

Hello everyone, I am new to this, as in havent done anything but read yet but I am taking the plunge now. I bought some m&p soap "avocado and cucumber" that also is a suspension base, and a cool little massage bar mold tray. (There are little fingers around all day or I'd jump into cp). Questions: What is the limit of additives to m&p? I'd like to add some ground oatmeal and ground almonds and maybe some almond oil. Would this need a scent or would I just compound too many scents? The base itself really has no scent. Also what amounts of additives would be recommended? How do figure the amount that I need to make to fill my molds? Will a water measurement be accurate or close enough? Thanks so much, Sami