Clear Black

2 hours ago, rhoops said:

Thanks Trap!  That's a lot of awesome info!  You live in some beautiful country over there.  I had an aunt and uncle who lived in Blue Ridge for many years and I always enjoyed the drive and seeing the landscape.

I can second what Trap says. I have for a few years gotten all of my 444 from them plus I use about 13 of their FO and counting. I also use the same number of FO from Candle Science as well, they are both great IMHO.

If you want another good supplier of FO try http://www.candlesandsupplies.net/Fragrance-Oils/Fragrance-Oils-Listing for some great FO's. These are my favorite smelling out of the three suppliers I mentioned actually.

58 minutes ago, rhoops said:

CB, are you selling?

I sell locally at fairs currently. I own  an ecommerce website, but have yet to build that or an etsy page. Hopefully over the winter I can get the ball rolling on those things.

8 hours ago, Trappeur said:

Thanks Clear Black for sharing that info.  There are tons of people here who I have seen asked that question many a time and will appreciate what you just said.

 

Trappeur

Im just sooo glad I dont have to spend 3 hours, twice a week, lumping 500 cases of candles into the stores anymore. Im pushing middle age and my back isnt as young as it used to be lol

Ok, Im going to fill you all in on a little secret. Im a big rig truck driver when not making candles for fun. Thats how I pay my bills and how my daughter is going to college.  The single biggest customer for my company for the longest time was Yankee Candle. We had the sole contract for all of North America to haul their candles to retail stores, and then lump inside. This was the case up until a few years ago when the candle industry moved away from dry van shipping. (In laymans terms, thats just a regular everyday trailer) Why they did you ask? Because too many of their candles would melt en route and damage claims were through the roof in warmer climates.  So, the big candle companies set into motion a new plan and tactic of shipping the candles cross country.  From that point on, most candles, including ALL of Yankee Candles products, are now shipped via reefer trailer. Reefer trailers are "refridgerated" trailers that can maintain sub-zero temps or whatever temp the shipper requests.  Thats the secret to how candles of all viscosity, whether soft or firm, are shipped and do not melt.

7 hours ago, Sponiebr said:

NOOOOooooooooo!!! (hides under rock) We's likeses the darknesses doesn't we precious?  

 

Soot. on. their. walls?  From candles?   I mean I'm the guy that's got rather strange interior decor tastes, but notice:



no soot on the walls...

So, I'm speechless. I got nuth'n... (This is VERY rare) 

Sponiebr

Executor of Bad Ideas, and yanno what, I gotta see how many candles it takes to soot up a room... Mr. Owl? How many candles does it take... o.O 

Jeez mate, is that actually your place in that picture? Those exposed brick walls are spectacular!

18 hours ago, candyb said:

I think the salt you use is personal preference, big and chunky or fine. I am not familiar with the super soft but I know if after a few days it doesn't absorb all the oil just add more salt.

CB, are those your in that photo? If so may I ask what you use to color them and which salt you are using? They look so uniform in size, the ones I get from Home Depot are no way near that uniform and are the larger crystals.

1 hour ago, Trappeur said:

I''m thinking it came from Flaming...couldn't swear...I know its a golden color and if I'm not mistaken I believe she sent me some beads of honey also.  I'll have to go in the basement and get the box.....Glad this subject came up as I need to get an order of melts made as soon as possible.  I believe TT works with bees wax so I hope she sees this and comes and puts in her wide expanse of knowledge that I know she has on this subject.  What is the difference between white and the golden?   Also like you just asked, will the honey scent distort what ever fragrance oil we use?

 

Trappeur

Trap, the white bw is simply "bleached" in order to remove the color. From all my experience and info ive read its mainly for cosmetic reasons 

43 minutes ago, rhoops said:

Thank you sir.  I've just been told that I may not be using enough FO, as the 444 could handle more.  More testing!  Oh, and to let the candle cure for two weeks as opposed to one.

More isnt always good. It can actually be worse. It can drown the wick, cause mushrooming and all sorts of other things. Sounds like you are at 6.25% of fo, moat people stay within 6-8%. Myself I use 8%. Just because the supply companies say the wax can handle 12% doesnt mean you need to or shpuld go that high. Fo will be one of, if not the highest, cost you incur per candle. If you plan on re-selling like you suggested, anything beyond 7% starts to eat profits. 

But definetly 2 weeks on the cure, and as I said before, if it doesnt work at 7ish%, then it just may be a dud fo and move on to the next one. Try a similar one from another supplier. I went through 4 Black cherry fo before i found one that worked. I like that suppliers Black cherry so much i tried more of thiers and now I carry 8 of their fo...so you never know i guess

3 hours ago, rhoops said:

Thanks Tayl!  Well, we began our candle making just a week ago with the intent to sell.  We've made several small batches of different fragrances and conducted a burn test with just one size for now and that's the 8oz tin.  We took some samples into our respective day jobs and the response is incredible.  Our first two batches have cured a week and one just doesn't seem to have the hot throw to match the cold so now I'm curious.  I'm using the 444 wax, which I love, the rule of thumb 1oz FO to one pound of wax, heating to 185, adding and mixing FO for two minutes, cooling and pouring at 135, and using an Eco 12 wick.  The tops are almost always smooth as silk and the cold throws are great.  Is there something I could do differently to better enhance the hot throw?  Possibly add FO at say 150 to decrease the chances of burning it off at 185?  Use a hotter burning wick perhaps?  As you can see, for someone who has only been in this for a week, I'm constantly searching to improve my product because I want happy customers.  All help is greatly appreciated!!

Welcome rhoops! Im one of the few here that use 444 as well. Most of theses folks I think use 464 or another soy so feel free to ask any questions you may have

In regards to the missing HT on some...it just may be that the particular fo in question doesnt work well for soy. Once you start to wick up you have to make sure your tins arent burning too hot. TT and Trap off the top of my head use those tins so they may be able to answer whether wicking up will add new problems as far as burning too hot. The tins I use for 444 are much different so I cannot help there sorry.

Good luck!

10 hours ago, MarlaSinger said:

 

It is typically used in a 1:1 ratio with your fragrance oil. Mix the two together well and then add in your water. Note that a lot of FOs will turn the mixture white/milky when using P20.

 

Another option is Fragrance & Essential Oil modifier from WSP. This one does not turn white when used correctly and works the same way (binds your oil & water), however the ratio is 4 parts modifier to 1 part FO. And this really only pertains to body products but as a side note, when you use poly 20 you have to list it as an ingredient; when you use the modifier you don't because it is considered part of your proprietary fragrance formula and therefore is just listed as "fragrance" in your ingredients.  

 

If given the choice, I prefer the modifier because it remains clear when I make room & body sprays.

Its really a matter of cost. I use the modifier in my room spray but its a bit pricey. The p20 looks more cost effective when making water beads

On 9/1/2017 at 1:25 PM, Candybee said:

Those are just soaps curing. I also have cured soaps I carry around in huge plastic totes for the markets and craft shows I do. I usually carry about 300+ soaps in 10 assorted soap boxes plus baskets to my shows... and that's just the soap!

CB, have you ever thought about using sheet pan racks like they do in bakeries? Tons of vertical storage, and the racks are skinny so you can just put multiple ones next to each other. The sheet pans also would replicate your cafeteria trays and be stackable in these racks at the same time.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/45131/sheet-pan-racks.html

7 hours ago, Trappeur said:

Hi ya Clear Black!

 

So your jar is a 16 oz (pint ) jar?   It's not a quart jar?  That's what it looks like to me....What is that a mayo like Moonstar said?   A wide mouth or regular mouth?

The only reason I'm asking is cause I use a cd10 on my 16oz jars...Actually I just dropped down from a cd 12 to a 10 and now after testing a couple new oils today it looks like I could even go to a cd8...But now I'm using 464 which your not  so  that explains it...these new formulations on waxes are just disgusting....

 

Well anyways, it's a nice burn you have going there.  Hard to believe your using a cd20 cause I use that size for quart jars in the wide mouth...

 

Hey but it is what it is....Thanks for sharing!

 

Trappeur

Heya Trap!!  Isnt a quart considered a 32 oz jar? Even so, the pint jars I was referring to are my 16oz cans, not the jar in the photo. Although the jar in the photo is indeed a 16oz container, they call it an Economy Round from where I purchase them, not a mayo. And its a regular mouth, not wide mouth. If you can see the neck tapers in towards the top, and that is my weakest spot of the whole jar. It burns a bit hot at the top if I pour too high, so I keep it at 12oz of wax in the jar. Its a bit backwards being hot at the top I know, but it cools down to where you see it in the photo after that neck. After the neck its pretty smooth sailing for the rest of the jar actually

2 hours ago, Moonstar said:

Im still on a learning curve myself. Im wondering if it has something to do with the shape of the jar, it kinda looks like a mayo style jar ? Im hoping someone more 

experienced will chime in with some insight. I can't believe even after 2 hrs you don't even have a full met pool. What about other style jars have you tried any 

to see if a large CD wick is needed etc ? Which wax are you using so someone can offer better advise. I also get some hangup with CD wicks but not as much 

as in your picture. Someone on here told me CD wicks lean so they'll have hangup.

Its 444 Moon, and Im now at the 4hr mark after last trim and got a 1/4 deep full melt pool with about 1/5th left of wax. To me, that seems right on mark so Im happy for now.

1 hour ago, Moonstar said:

Wow this is interesting to me. So you use CD 20's on a 3"diamater jar ? What jars do you use + what wax ? I have a ton of vintage enamel camp mugs and they 

are about 3" in diamater and I use a CD10 in those and as the candle burns down to about 1/3 of the wax the flame is a bit bigger. 

I had a 16 oz glass tester burning so I snapped a few crude pics just to show you what I was referring to Moon.  This is about 2 hours after my last wick trim, which I didnt really need to do, it just had a few "mickey mouse ears" I call them. A few very small ones, but they annoy the crap outta me.  But as you can see, even with a CD-20 I still have hangup a bit at the bottom 1/3 and not even a full MP after a few hours.  Whne this jar is down to the last 1 1/2inch or so, that hangup is all but gone.  Id say thats about what Id want ya? Still learning and testing so feel free to tell me other wise

13 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

Wow this is interesting to me. So you use CD 20's on a 3"diamater jar ? What jars do you use + what wax ? I have a ton of vintage enamel camp mugs and they 

are about 3" in diamater and I use a CD10 in those and as the candle burns down to about 1/3 of the wax the flame is a bit bigger. 

I use 444, and 16oz paint cans which are 3w3d4h. And glass jars that are the same cept 5h. I never get more than a 1/4in deep mp and they stay fairly cool til the bottom 1/3. After that they heat up a bit, but not too bad. I tried CD-18 in these jars but I was getting way too much hangup. Even with the glass jar I have there is "residual" hangup on the sides until the very last inch or so of the jar

15 hours ago, candyb said:

Since I only do retail I had to look up exactly what a line sheet was. Googled some good material.

https://www.handshake.com/blog/what-is-a-line-sheet/

GREAT info Cb. GREAT info and a very good read. I didnt know a thing about this but its info that I would have been looking for in a month or two when I branch out into wholesale so TYVM

Ya, I use CD-20's on 3" diam containers, that cd22 may end up burning a bit hot down the bottom of that 7oz little jar. Unless ofc, its a wide 7oz container

14 hours ago, Elysian said:

I have had this fingernailing problem since my very first candle, and I have asked for help in another thread previously. Someone very kindly gave me a formula of adding Stearic and Vybar to my straight paraffin wax, and it has resolved the issue.

 

I am revisiting this issue (and also out of "scientific" curiosity as to what causes this) because the formula is not possible for a container candle as the shrinkage is too unmanageable due to the stearic. I have tried at least 10 different variations of stearic and/or vybar proportions but nothing works - it seems that 1.5oz of stearic is a minimum, added together with Vybar.  The straight paraffin wax I am using is 138F MP (which I am given to understand is a mid MP paraffin, flexible for either pillars or containers), vary 7 - 9% FO.

 

The attached picture shows a formula with a reduced amount of stearic (1oz) and vybar, which has given rise to the fingernail white chunks again, and the powdery parts are where I used a skewer on some of them to see precisely what they are. They feel like wax, but slightly powdery. The ones I had poked on are near the surface, but some of these white chunks are sometimes large and deep inside the wax. 

 

I can't find anything on the internet that talks about this particular issue - doesn't seem to be one of the common candle faqs/issues. Great to get some insight as to what fingernailing is, and what causes it. 

 

 

I cant answer that question, but im curious what container that is? It looks eerily familiar with what I have been using for the last 3 years. I am curious how you are liking them if it is what I think it is

10 hours ago, candyb said:

Funny girls. I am Candy Baker frequent lurker, infrequent poster. I make potpourri and home scents and usually hang out in the Fragrance area.  I have been hanging around here since 2006. 

 

It wasnt you we were worried about, more so our dear Candy Bee that troubled us lol

8 hours ago, TallTayl said:

 Have you tried any surfactants to get the oil in the water to blend? A surfactant reduces the electrical charge of the oil and water so polarity is no longer a factor.

 

Otherwise if you're set on an oil you can't beat fractionated coconut oil. It is MCT or medium chain triglycerides at places like soap suppliers. Super long shelf life. One of the lightest oils. Colorless. Practically odorless. Not sure if it will adsorb into the water beads though.

No im not set on it being an oil, wasnt sure if there was another method. But as Marla pointed out, maybe Poly-20 would work.

5 hours ago, MarlaSinger said:

Adding Polysorbate 20 would probably work

Any idea what % to add the Poly-20 in at?

Im experimenting with making some batches of water beads. Naturally oil and water dont play well together so my first test batch of fragrance oil and distilled water didnt go very far. I knew this of course, but still wanted to test and see if I could get them to play enough together to incorporate into the water beads. NOPE.

So, my next best guess is to just find some sort of oil to use as a carrier for the fragrance oil. This is where I need your help.  

* Looking for an oil that is clear, odorless and about the same viscosity as tap water.  Something that is also inexpensive as it will just be acting as a carrier for the FO.  I dont know much about grapeseed oil or any other oils so thats why im here asking. 

Any help locating an oil that is as close to water as you can, please let me know. Thanks.

18 hours ago, Sponiebr said:

What if... <GASP> 
What if it's THE SAME ONE in TWO PLACES at the SAME TIME!?  

TT!!!! What have you done!!!? The creation of clubs has created TWO Candy BEES!!! 



Think about this for a second... What are you gonna do if I spontaneously replicate? I mean *I'll* be having a blast... but, yanno.... OTHERS might not. (I'm just say'n) 

 

Sponiebr
Guru at Good Thoughts and Creative Positive Self Awareness


(LOL... Just mess'n with ya... I'm still THE ONE and ONLY  Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services)   

If you replicate God help us all. RIP Craft Server 

9 hours ago, candyb said:

Yes I would love to be involved, no technical expertise but love being creative.

Woah..wait a sec. We have two Candy Bees? I THOUGHT ONE WAS ENOUGH!!! 🤤

2 hours ago, Dorothy Mantooth said:

 

I'd love to help.

I've been a graphic designer for 20 years and know a lot more about design/marketing than I do about candles!

 

I'm also one who loves more simplistic designs.

I designed and maintain three websites for my current company so I understand the challenges of making things look right online.

 

Let me know if you want my help and how you want to proceed.

 

 

Same goes for me as well TT. I work with Adobe Illustrator everyday almost and can take any of your graphics or logos and turn them into vectors. This way you can scale up/down infinetly.

If Dorothy is a GD then she should have zero problems doing this as well..its mostly a hobby for me to design in AI, but it appears she does it on a higher level than me and thats good news for you and the CS boards

Just let us know a general idea for a Craft Server logo or "mascot" and whomever wants to help can start designing it. 

On 10/3/2017 at 9:32 AM, TallTayl said:

I have been testing coconut with white beeswax in line blends in 8oz tins. Have only made it through the first two burns, but the blend is promising. ratios in testing include 100% coconut, coconut:bw in 90:10, 80:20, 70:30 and 60:40.

 

using rrd47 wicks. When trimmed these all burn wonderfully, and throw well. Thinking of wicking the next st down to rrd40 because I KNOW people won't be diligent about wick trimming. 

So do you think this is the direction you will be going to stear away from soy TT? How would you deal with the extra cost of the coconut and bw since they are both generally more expensive than soy alone. 

Im very interested in which ratio above is working out the best. Any chance you could keep us posted as the burns go? Possibly make your own thread so we can keep track of that progress? Im standing right next to you in regards of being done with soy. I just got 500lbs of 444 in last week and the tests are all over the map as compared to last summers batch I ordered. I cant continue to trust soy if it will be like this