Clear Black

I use the large presto pots for most small runs.

I just found a link to one of those Presto Pots with a built in spigot. 

http://www.prestopotwaxmelter.com/index.html 

priced around $60, seems like a good starter melter for a hobbiest

I wouldn't assume that the decision to use 464 means people are unhappy with 444. The choice to use one wax over another wax is probably nothing more than 'I tried it, like it, and will stay with it'. I've been using 464 for many years now and I am comfortable with it. Why should I test a different wax if 464 is performing nicely? Seems like a waste of time and resources to try to fix something that isn't broken. Maybe you are overthinking it.

Oh Im sure I am over thinking it. My only issue was that on so many websites Ive been visiting lately, in all the customer review sections and all forum articles, hardly ever a mention of 444 but tons and tons of "help me with this" articles on 464. I will most likely continue with 444, but I am about to re-order another 10lb bag and was considering getting the 464 this time and see if I can notice a difference.

444 threw better for me and a few others, but was much 'uglier' after burning. 

This is an issue I have been noticing after my candles have burned for a bit and I wake up the next morning. i will have cave-ins on the surface with frosting that wasnt there initially after pour. I had thought that I was turning out bad pours as I am still new to all this. I might just decide to hold any further testing of 444 and give a 10lb batch of 464 a try this next week.

They are both blends if you want pure soy you need to look at I believe it's 402 and 415.

I don't use GB waxes so I can't help with those other questions.

Yes, but the 415 and 402 will require a re-pour. The 444 and 464 do not. I just dont understand at this point why so many are using 464 rather than 444. it feels like I am missing some critical piece of info since I am currently testing with 444.

While we are on the topic, I am testing with 444 and found that heating to 180* and pouring at 100* leaves me with near perfect adhesion and tops. In the latest test batch I also added my FO at about 105* and poured soon after. How does temp play into throw when added at different temps? Meaning, will i get more hot throw if I added my FO at a higher temp, or is it the same as if I had added it at 150* or 105*?

 

Great info. Thanks a bunch. I wasnt exactly sure if wax kept its original properties after a heat/reheat.

 

As long as you don't go over the max temp that the mfg suggests, it will be just fine.  Mine is 200 degrees, however I have gone over that just don't keep it at 200 or over for very long.  I use

electric melting pots to melt my wax so it's hard to get an exact temp until you know your pot and how much wax is in it.

 

Im also researching melting pots so I can, when ready, make a bigger batch than my current 1lb a a time. Any chance you can link me to what type of melter you use? 

this is according to GB website:  464 has a lower melt point and gives better adhesion

                                                    444 has a higher melt point which allows a higher fo load and stronger scent throw

Ok, call me crazy, but why arent more people talking about 444 then? Most people here and other sites dont mind adhesion/wet spot issues but are always after better FO load and hot/cold throw. Yet, the majority of the discussions Ive read are about 464. This leaves me with more questions than answers! 

While pour temps are very important, i find my candles are glossiest with a rapid cool. The crystals set smaller with fast cooling. When cooling slowly i can watch them agglomerate and grow, leaving a dull surface.

Since your wax is uncolored and unscented remelting should not be a problem - so long as it was not overheated at any step. I often make a vat of wax, let it cool completely, then reheat. It behaves the same IME regardelss.

I always heat my wax, allow it to cool and reheat before I make 1 candle with it.  I use C3 but doing that to the wax actually makes it perform better for me.  Also if there is any wax left in my

melter I leave it in, fill it up and melt it before I turn it off for the day, that way it's ready when I remelt.

 

Most people leave whatever wax is left in their melters and add new to fill it.

Great info. Thanks a bunch. I wasnt exactly sure if wax kept its original properties after a heat/reheat.

Can you kind folks please give me any insight as to the difference between the two? On the web site I buy my wax from, their own explanations of the two are almost identical. The only difference being that the 464 has a lower melt point.

It just seems that everyone around here and other candle sites seem to only use 464. Ive only come across very few people who even talk about 444. I purchased a 10lb bag of 444 and have been doing some test batches ever since. Im making progress and each batch is getting slightly better. I just dont know if I should be using 464 rather than 444.

What I plan on using the wax for is 8, 12 and 21 oz Elite jars and Lip balms. Although I dont have a recipe yet, Im shooting for 2 parts 444, 1 part bees, oils, Vit E and flavor oil. Eventually some clamshells/tarts but thats all.

Im having a slight issue with the wax, GB 444, sticking to my wood wicks when I pour. Meaning, as they cool, they seperate from the wick slightly, leaving a small but noticable tunnel the length of the wick top-bottom. It doesnt matter really what temp I pour at seeing as its done this at a pour temp of 150*, 125* and 100*

Should I be priming these wood wicks before I pour?

Im using 2 wicks back to back in each candle. I can never seem to get one wick to stay lit, but two wicks seem to do just fine.

New to soy candle making, so new guy question here. Everywhere I read or every video I watch the gospel seems to be "double boiler" How exactly do these turkey fryers accomplish a safe wax melt? It seems to me, again being the new guy, that having the heating element directly contacting your wax is the complete opposite of the double boiler method? This confuses me.

I ask all this, because I plan on making candles as gifts and as a general hobby. Id like to make more than 1lb at a time because at this pace I can only make 2 candles per batch. TEDIOUS to say the least. So this turkey fryer idea seemed brilliant. Cant find any though! Well, affordable.

I then stumbled across something this: http://www.homebrewing.org/One-Weld-9-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Pot_p_1683.html 

What would be the difference between your Turkey cooker, and using this on a hot plate or electric stove top?

Oh disregard that first reply. I misread your comment. Beut yes GG. This is EXACTLY what i am testing for. If my FO changes the behavior of my wax. I know it does, I just need to figure out my pour temps with FO added. Pouring at 100* with just pure Soy seemed to leave with with a glass top. I was very happy. I will add my FO and again pour at 100* and see if it changes. I just didnt know if I could re-use the first batch of pure Soy that I heated, cooled, and will re-heat again.

It was pure soy. As the title states. No FO, just the GB 444

As a side note, I am starting my testing phase over again. The first 3 batches of candles I made came out with some pretty flawed tops and air pockets. 

The first batch i made I put in 1.5oz of FO to 1lb 444. Melted to 180, added my FO, poured at 125. The tops came out horrible and I had cavities/cave-in everywhere. Also, after added in my FO at 180* I realized this particular FO had a Flash point of 140. The wa looked aweful and the hot throw was non-existent.

Second batch I made, different scent, FP of 200, I again melted to 180, poured at 125. Again the tops looked horrible and I had air pockets and "tunnels" throughout. I test burned them and the wax pool had many tiny little bubbles from the air leaving the pockets. Cold throw was spot on, but now the hot throw is minor. I can go upstairs, and return again downstairs and get a "HINT" of Lilacs. I want more than that. 

It was at least point I decided to start over and begin with just testing the soy in a jar. Period. So again I melted to 180, but this time I poured one at 150* and the other at 100* The 150 pour had wick seperation and cave ins. Overall top looked nice, but I was unhappy with what I saw. The 100* pour on the other hand was SPOT ON. Like glass. No flaws on the surface as far as I could see. Both pours had very similar jar adhesion, so I wasnt concerned there.

Which brings me to step 2. Pour at 100* and add scent, wick.

Im using wood wicks by the way. Two sand whiched back-back. 5/8" Original Crackling Wick by http://www.woodcandlewick.com/in a 12oz Elite Jar. I tested the 1/2" wick, and the burn pool eventually got to the outsides, but left a "ring" of unburned wax around the edge. Plus scent throw wasnt as noticeable as with the 5/8. (Even though I wasnt happy at all with the hot throw from either)

Anyways, that was more than I planned on typing jeez. Any tips or anything I typed that stood out as a red flag PLEASE step in and say so. I need all the help I can take.

-Cheers all!

Can you re-use soy GB 444 after its been heated and cooled? Basically, i was testing pour temps. I decided which one I liked better and melted the wax I had poured into my two jars, then poured back into my melt pan. I am, as of writing this, re-heating the wax to do a pour test with scent added as a step 2 type process. Will the original pure soy GB 444 behave the same on this second re-heat?