Judette

I have to agree on this one.

Washcloth here.

Thank you, CB. I am new to CP. I have used silicone for tarts and such so I thought that is probably how it would work. So, this type is easier to work with than the Logan Bear type, which I think is like some type of cutting board plastic? At least my cutting boards look like they are made out of the same stuff. I have read several posts that these types require a lot of seasoning. I am new so I do not want to purchase something that I am going to be frustrated with. Plus $ for $ they are about the same.

I have 3# of this. I am not much of a B&B person. Just for my own use. Can I use any of this up in CP soap? If so, at what %? What, if any qualities does it add or not add to soap? TIA Judy

I also had read this in a lotion my DH uses in the winter. I read and then it slipped my mind. Over 50 ya know. Anyway this lotion was from Tractor Supply Store. He uses udder cream in the winter because his hands get so dry and cracked and this was like the 3rd ingredient on the label. ??

How long should I expect the liner to last? Does this liner require seasoning? I am hooked on CP now and getting tired of lining molds. Tried high heat mylar and my last batch wanted to stick to it. The first batch came out easy. I have seen other molds where some never did get the soap to slide right out.

Check out the Dish. I mentioned that I use fresh GM. Got blasted for doing so. Actually using any milk in MP got blasted. Apparently a rancidity issue. Some said that after a brief period of time the soap smelled like vomit. I don't make a lot of MP but I have used fresh GM and it does make for a very creamy bar. I will continue to make it and continue to use it. I do not sell and there might be an issue of selling with it [unpasteurized] in it.

I am not on the defensive. I had followed suggestions by PA of adding raw GM to M&P. Her suggestion was 3 T per #. I merely stated that I had incorporated more with no ill effects. I do know that I can purchase raw GM locally. I do not have to, it is given to me. I do not know all of the effects of adding it to any soap product. Could the overall use of it be harmful? I believe you are reading more into what I have stated. Although I do not sell, for those that do, if it is legal in my state and an end product containing this ingredient was sold out of state, that was not legal, could there be ramifications. Does their label state that they have added unpasteurized GM? Also this is why I am asking if it is okay in non-gelled CP soap. I am not a chemist and do not pretend to be. However, if the milk does not go through a heat phase, could it still possibly not be a good idea to use. Should the milk be heated prior to use? I also did not say I used 7 T. I stated 5-6 T.

Apparently there is a question of the legality of it being unpasteurized, and then selling, which I do not do. I, personally, see that there is no problem, since we are not injesting the product. Alot of EOs and infused weeds and such cannot be injested but they can safely be applied to the skin in varying amounts.

Begin to say that I do not sell soap. Under the recomendations of Prarieannie I have added canned and fresh from the goat milk to M&P base. Which I guess is not recommended, according to another forum. Now I have a question now that I have started CP. If I add fresh, unpasteurized goat's milk to CP and prevent gel, so temp never gets hot, added milk at trace or not to lye water is this okay? What is the long term effect on the soap? Say after cure of 4-6 months?

Apparently we should not be adding liquid milk to any M&P product. Very active discussion on another forum. I do not sell my soap. What I have made I have used for immediate use. PA chime in if you will please.

I think it was the silk powder. I will have to check the site or my invoice. I just always hear of peeps adding just a pinch of silk so I didn't really know. And yes, it turned the water very dark when I added the lye. Kind of like lightly steeped tea.

My silk was from MMS. It comes as fine little shreds, not liquid. It was at least 2 T. Like I said I dumped it in, like an idiot. So as far as exact amount, I do not know. I will cut a bar in half this weekend and use some of it. I have sensitive skin,,so if is going to be irritating I will find out fast. Does silk added to the water always make it brownish? Or was it because I added wayyy too much? Judy

Very nice video. Nice swirls. I am newbie too. I think I have been getting too thic of trace to have end result like yours. Your swirl color looked very thin compared to mine. Thanks. Judy

I did not use liquid silk. It was silk fibers from MMS. Just wondered if by adding too much might be irritating to the skin. I will try the misting with alcohol. I had only one batch with ash, this is water condensation. Maybe I am removing the mold from towels and such while it is still too warm? Should I allow to cool back down completely before removing. I have this fear of overheating. I have seen what can happen on other forums. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have AC set at 68-70. So maybe house is too cold. Judy

Trying to do 10 things at once the other night and trying to save steps. Anyway, I mix my lye/water in garage. I forgot to bring my little spoon out, so instead of going back into house to get it, I tried just shaking a little silk into the water. Bam. About 2 T went in. Could not dig it out - so I put required lye amount in and mixed anyway. That was some brown water. Made the soap anyway. Unmolded yesterday and everything looks okay. No pockets of anything. Will it be okay? It is 3 days old. Should I just rebatch? I hate to, there are some pretty black and red swirls on top. Also, I forced gel in a 2.5# slab mold. I had AC on. The soap had condensation on top the next AM. Tested for zap. Definitely was condensation. This is the 2nd batch out of 8 that has done this. Is there away to prevent this? If I put saran or wax paper on top, it will mess with the swirlies. ??? TIA Judy

PEAKS !!

I would not break the weld if the weld is centered. I would bend them so they are centered. Gently. But sometimes when you move the pin so it righ in one votive mold - it might not be right for another. So be careful, but I would not break the weld. I think you will end up with bigger problems. JMO

I have been ordering supplies to take the plunge into soapmaking. Michigan can get hot & humid in the summer months. I will not turn the AC until I have to. I waited all winter to be able to have my windows open. Should I store my oils and butters upstairs where it may get a little warm or in basment where it is cooler. Also, can I store in refrigerator? I read where someone stores their butters in frig to extend shelf life. I do have a small frig in basement that pretty much is only used for soda & water. Also, if I can store in frig what should temp be? We keep that frig very cold. DH likes very cold water. I put this in this section because I know a lot of same product is used in B&B as well as soapmaking. Also I will probably begin to have million ?? I have made some B&B already. Nothing elmulsified. Straight butters & oils recipes. You guys are such a gamut of knowledge. I finally have ooooo and ahhhh long enough in the gallery, I am going to try the CP soap. I am starting with QuietGirl's recipe. Is that a good start point? Or should I go even more basic?

Ditto to this. It is also how I clean my pillar and votive mold. Anything stubborn gets goo-goned.

I put mine in a .75z twist tube. Looks like a big lip balm tube. I just ordered the 2z ones from Elements. These have been a hit for me. I don't think just using soy wax would give them the right firmness. The beeswax makes them about the consistancy of a lip balm maybe a little firmer. Just go ahead and make the recipe as written like I did and you won't have any problems with it. Then if there is something you don't like about it tweak it for yourself.

If you heat the wax hot enough, you should be able to incorporate the oil into the wax without the vybar. Some heavy oils mix harder - eg, vanillas. Sometimes I heat the harder oils first then add to wax. I mostly use 4794 (preblend) with whatever container wax I have. Container waxes tend to hold a higher scent load than pillar/votive waxes and since I am not putting a wick in the wax I sometimes use 1.5 z per pound of melt wax. Don't put too much in or it will just leak out of the wax and if you are using aluminum tart molds, they won't come out worth a darn. Ask me how I know? Also the FO will eat the coating on the mold.

In other words they don't want something that is going to cover up the smell. I know of no frangrance oil. I use CS's Odor Eliminator in melts and works great, esp. when frying something or made a whoops in the bottom of the oven and it is burning, lingering stink. I just bought an ionizer for my car, works great. $11 at Wal-Mart

Any one order from here? I did a search but not much info. They have some good prices on some items. They ship by $ order amount, apparently not by weight. Click the order form and shipping costs are displayed. ? on CS and order turnover time. FO's any good? Any info appreciated TIA Judy

I make lots of tarts. I add 2 ounce of container wax - any that I have extra of - to 1 lb parafin. I personally would eliminate the vybar. It could be locking the scent. Or reduce it a little. HTH