Soya

Maryann... Do you see a difference with throw too! Or am I delusional? Ha ha

I added 3%(bought at Michaels) and 9% FO. In tin containers. Used Peaks...Juicy pinapple. LX24 wick. Poured at 115. Room was very cool...69 maybe. I put one candle in the bathroom. Cured one day. I went in about an hour later..after lighting it..and I couldn't believe my sniffer! I had absolutly no throw without the BW. So I would know the difference....havent had one candle with a decent throw for months that I've been candlemaking. After a week or so...maybe I would get a liitle something. But remember I just started using this version 1 a couple of weeks ago. I am in between wick sizes though. What do I do....find another wick Brand? Go down on FO?

I am using the Ecosoya Advance (original version). I really don't know how anybody can get a good throw without adding something to this wax. That's just my opinion though.

I've been having problems from day one with my cold and hot throws. I finally bought some beeswax this weekend. I made 2 candles using the BW. OMG! There is a big difference. I lit them today. WOW! Just thought I would share.

They are endorsed by someone famous...can't recall their name now. I was like....OMG. BTW...the wicks weren't centered... ha ha

Was in Walgreens the other day.....they are now selling soy candles. 5.99 for like 12 ounces. I can see Walmart doing the same soon.

How about your Dryer.... If ya had a load to dry that is and they are small batches.

Just so you know......I just checked on my candles...and 2 out of the 3 containers have no wet spots! THis is day 3. They actualy look perfect. I'm sure once they start to melt....they will start filling up the space between the container and wax giving it that Line though. The two I am talking about were made in thicker 3" glass tumblers. The one with the wet spot is thinner glass. This one pulled al the way around except in one area. I learned about wet spots from TOP!! We could also try mixing 135 with the ver2. I have some of that stuff too...or even eco pure soy. Somethings got to work with these waxes. I don't want to give up either. What temp did you pour those at Henry? Something just came to mind. I bought a so called soy massage candle once at the spa. It was not rock hard.....it appeared to have some kind of oil or something....maybe olive oil. NOW, THAT WAS A PERFECT CANDLE! So you may be right about adding some kind of oil.

Henry I would love to hear about your findings mixing the 2 waxes. I am placing my order for the CB135 on Monday and will also start mixing and testing. I also went out today and bought beeswax. Thanks for the info. I will post my findings as I go along. NICE CANDLE you have there!!! Btw...I pour CB (ver 1) at 115 and my candles come out with perfect looking tops. Also I just poured 3 different scents and 3 colors last night and have no WET SPOTS at all. I did make some the other day that are pulling little by little. My problem is the throw . Guess I do need to give it time. Maybe I have candle nose.

I'm not really happy with the scent throw....but the wax sets up really really nice! I was just thinking this morning that I wanted to try the CB135. Hmmm...I wonder if I can mix the two.

Thank You

I just got a sample from Peaks. This smells like strong cantalope to me....not Mango/Papaya. Any chance this may have been mislabled? Does it smell like that to anyone else?

I just found out my partner is adding steric. She didn't know she was not supposed to add steric to the new wax. Guess its back to the drawing board for me. The meltpool of my wax is 111. Thank you

Just ordered some from Peaks!! Can't wait to try it out.

A lady on another board told me Vybar helps her with seeping soy candles in the summer/hot weather. But I don't know... I'm a newb!

Hello I am between wick sizes on a container. This is the situation. LX 26 does not reach FMP in appropriate time. LX 28 Burns too fast. Can I add less FO to the LX26 to speed burning? or Can I add a hardener (steric or beeswax) to LX28 to slow down burning? Thank You HEY....It says I am a wax drip under my name! Ha Ha...That is too funny!!

I have a container combo doing the same as yours Jeana......I wicked it with an LX 28...what I did was make another one with a smaller wick (LX26). That candle now takes approx 4 to 5 hours to get a FMP. Not everyone burns their candles for 4 to 5 hours and I am concerned... if they extinguish the candle say after 3 hours...that it would start an ugly tunnel. I did not have any sooting with the first combo...just large flames and faster candle melt down. I read somewhere, someone said it was better to have a FMP at 4 to 5 hours. I am new to candlemaking.....and am not sure which is better or supposed to be.

Thanks Geek... We want the glass to heat up don't we........so the wax that clings to the sides comes down? I have some nice containers I want to wick that have thick glass. I will post my findings when I figure it out.

If glass is thicker would one need to wick up or down? I'm thinking thick glass doesnt get as hot? Just curious.

I'm interested in trying the pink peppercorn. Is it a masculine scent?

GREAT IDEA TOP!!! Thank you!

The CBA version 2 gave me grey hairs. I switched over to CBA version 1 and have made some pretty good looking/burning candles. The only problem I see with this wax is that I get water spots.... maybe there is something I can add. I think I'm going to try this wax and add something else. It just sets up so pretty.

I just checked the stats of one of the wicks (LX 26) and it says it has a flame height of 2.2 inches. Wow... I thought the perfect candle had to have under 1.5 height.

Thank you!

Hello Can someone please help me? Which HTP wick is most like a LX 28 or Eco14. Would it be a HTP1212? Thank You