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geekrunner

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Everything posted by geekrunner

  1. IMO your MP should be full width and not more than 1/2" deep after three hours, but 3/8" would be optimal IMO. There are two schools of thought on measuring MP depth: measuring the depth from the outside of the jar with a tape, or dipping a knife or stick into the MP and measuring the wax on the knife/stick. The MP may be actually deeper than it may appear from the outside. Of course your don't want the MP to be too deep, since more hot wax in the jar may make the jar too hot to touch and allow too much FO to be released. Once again IMO HTH! geek
  2. It was 415 with 3% BW from MC. I've since bailed on MC soy in favor of a blend of two different GB soys with the Universal Soy Additive in it. It seems to work well, pours hotter than plain 415, and it takes color real well. Outstanding cold throw and acceptable hot throw. Price is right, too, and I can pick up all the ingredients at CStore, only about 3 hour round trip. geek
  3. This was a no-color candle. I'm guessing that it was the FO. No matter though, I have switched wax formulas and have one that seems to behave. Top you are too funny! Anyone who knows your opinions on soy will understand your post. geek
  4. Cinnamon Sticks from Millcreek will sting your eyes at anything over 6% load (ask me how I know ) geek
  5. Back just before Christmas last year, one of mrs geek's coworkers ordered two Dreamsicle scented 11 oz tureens. I had them tested and burning great, poured two for her and she was tickled to death! It was Millcreek's Dreamsicle in 415 with BW and UV. Now, five months later, I am at her house doing some handyman work for her and I see one of the candles I made. Being the curious sort, I opened it up to see how it was doing. Well, to my surprise it had not yet been lit, and it was all brainy looking on top, and the brainy looking residue on the top was very powdery! It still smelled great though. I've been playing around with soy for about a year, but I realize I'm no expert. Maybe it's the FO or the fact that she keeps her house so warm inside, but I can't figure out what causes that brainy cauliflowery powdery stuff to happen. I've had other candles sit without burning and not do that. Anyone else have experience with Dreamsicle or long term storage in high heat? TIA! geek
  6. I've had some luck with single wicking the 16 oz keepsake jar, which realistically only holds 12 oz but is ab 3 1/2 in wide. I have used the Premier 700 wicks in 464. However, I have NOT had much luck using LXs or HTPs in 415 in that jar single wicking, I have had to double wick. geek
  7. henryk is the first preson to give me advice on soy, way back when I had Astorlite S1. Thanks henry for all that great advice. On the 70/30, I poured exactly per Brenda's directions into 16 oz Melting pot jar, and had no air pockets, only the familiar parasoy dip in the middle. I however poured without any wicking, so that might have made a difference. geek
  8. Sorry I'm not much help with soy pillars, mine were disasters. Welcome to the board though! The paper core cotton wick shouldn't bend like that. When a wick is called "self-trimming" it means that it curls in one direction so that the wick does not get too tall and have too big a flame. In that regard, it is self trimming. Flat braid wicks are self trimming, like the HTP, ECO, CD, LX, and the numbered raw flat braid wicking used in pillars. One still has to physically trim some of the wick away, but usually it is restricted to cutting away any mushrooming. HTH! geek
  9. We like good service! And an excuse to use these smilies geek
  10. I have nothing to add, but I am enjoying this thread. BTW top I like your new Marvin avatar. Sabrina pet your kitties for me, dot and comma. Donita you are a bad girl. geek
  11. I have used either HTP93, HTP104, or HTP105 using 415 with 3% BW in the 20 oz tureen, HTP73 and HTP83 in the 12 oz. Double wicking in all cases. geek
  12. It's a long thread, but here it is and there are lots of comments on throw: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18739 geek
  13. I have used their 70/30 one lb sample in one jar and I like it alot, but you have to find the right temp to pour for good glass adhesion. If you pour exactly to their instructions, it will pull away some, but you can get pretty good adhesion by tweaking the pour temp. When I was done testing the jar I had I scooped out remainder, reheated just enough to melt, and repoured into a JJ and got only a few tiny spots pulling away. I too am apprehensive about this wax only available from GL but it is a very nice wax, and they are getting the mfg to tighten up their QC. I just received ten lbs for further testing. The two biggest drawbacks for me are the price ($1.50 per lb delivered) and it comes in slab form. I've been spoiled using flaked soy. geek
  14. I would also add to Bre's comment that all their soy is from GB. I've been testing their 415 and 402. They will soon carry the 464. geek
  15. I tried it and got a static page with wax listing and prices, and their phone number. It appears they are working on their site. geek
  16. Welcome Shannon! There's nothing I enjoy more than tasty noob for dinner. Noob is the Other White Meat you know We like to have fun and do big-time serious candle testing, so search to your heart's content and don't be afraid to ask us question. geek
  17. There definitely is a correlation between wick size and FO throw. I had been testing GL 70/30 with the melting pot jar using 2 x 740 and got great throw, but not quite cleaning the jar and the wicks were drowning after 2/3 of candle was consumed. When I wicked up to the 745, I had great MP, and good hot throw but it smelled different, almost a burned scorched smell. I can't single wick the melting pot jar, and I really like the Premier 700s, so I'm going to try some cottons and HTPs in the 70/30. Haven't yet tested the wicks in soy, but that is my next project. geek
  18. Once again Jason proves to be a valued member of the CT board. I think I could speak for many here that your generous samples help us become better chandlers. geek
  19. In general, you should weigh your ingredients rather than measure in liquid volume. Especially with FOs alot of them will weigh more or less than each other. Aloe in a candle? geek
  20. If you don't add anything to it, you could pour hot and let it cool in a preheated oven on warm, of course turn the oven off after putting candle in it. I have had only a few specks of frosting appear after that. geek
  21. :yay: Good job there! I had to have one stick out it's tongue to keep you modest geek
  22. I've blown chunks before too. Soy wax does not make good chunks for chunk candles, especially container soy. It's just too soft. You may get better results if you use votive/pillar but if you are REALLY serious about chunkers you shoud use paraffin. Much cleaner cuts and easier removal and breaking apart. HTH! geek
  23. Right now MC soy is $1.05 per lb shipped. 464 which I will switch to will run $1.30 per lb shipped. geek
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