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CD10 to CD12-A little nudge or big boost?


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Please, yes & thank-you. I believe I pull a wick too quickly instead of letting it run its course. I see your pics, read the comments & understand mine better. Now if you could start using 4627 & status jars!

Ha ha...Don't think I'll be changing wax anytime soon, just the thought of trying another wax makes me shake:) We will start the status jar test in the next few weeks though, we're trying to narrow our scope to (3) jar sizes per line, (3) lines, so still lots of testing but I will be happy to share the results. I was very close to pulling the CD10 in the 8oz jj until I went through the test. I still have to complete the burn but the CD10 is STILL winning.

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I've been talking (to myself mostly) about making a pour sheet. I always forget to write something down in the notebook.

I would be LOST without my notes, way too many variables. The pour sheets are priceless, at least to me. If I have not poured a particular jar in a while I pull the binder and look it up. Make the pour sheet, get a binder, you will be so happy that you did! My notes are a MESS which is why I developed our pour sheets.

Alwayswondering, give it a try, you will be hooked :)

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How is the test coming along for you Sisters? Is the 10 still performing well for you

Mornin Moonshine!! The testing is coming along great. I am traveling this week with my real job but brought both the ECO 10 and CD 10 candles with me. I thought that I would post more pics this afternoon since we saw the first part of the candle now the second half.

The CD10 is still winning hands down, great HT. The ONLY negative I have found is that the jar (after a 4 hour burn) yesterday was just a bit warmer than I would imagine it would be, but no worries, still acceptable. This is a keeper FO for the 464 too!!! I think after today we can put the CD10 and the 8oz jj together as a winning wick/container set.

I will be starting a new test on Saturday, the cute Libby jars from dollar general (love them, just a buck). I have not even attempted this jar and have not tested anything over a CD10 yet. So....I think I will jump right in with a CD14, sound right to you? 7.5oz and 3" diameter.

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For the 10 oz Libbey Status jar (3") and 464 I use a CD-16 but the 14 would be a great place to start.

Super, thank you very much for the vote of confidence in my "jumping off point", I really what to become well versed in choosing from my CD wicks, they seem to ADORE the 464 :)

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That's great now I can learn from you again! The DT jars are the ones I use if its the same. They are the 12.25 status knockoff unless they sell a different size in different states. I found the ECOs so far are working the best for me with 464 & 444. Now if you would only use the 4627! LOL :rolleyes2

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That's great now I can learn from you again! The DT jars are the ones I use if its the same. They are the 12.25 status knockoff unless they sell a different size in different states. I found the ECOs so far are working the best for me with 464 & 444. Now if you would only use the 4627! LOL :rolleyes2

Ha ha....I'm still a "one wax kinda gal", still, after over a year, getting know my 464 and all its surprises :) With the DT jar it won't be a head to head battle between CD's and ECO's I'm diving right in testing the CD14....However, I might try another test, (2) ECO 4's in the same jar, just to complicate my life :)

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Ha ha....I'm still a "one wax kinda gal", still, after over a year, getting know my 464 and all its surprises :) With the DT jar it won't be a head to head battle between CD's and ECO's I'm diving right in testing the CD14....However, I might try another test, (2) ECO 4's in the same jar, just to complicate my life :)

I believe I've tried most of the wick series in that jar. I'm on my last lbs of 4627 & hate to give up but enough. Especially after finding wicks that burn well so easily in the soy waxes I'm testing. Thanks again & good luck!

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The 'shroom that the CD 10 has developed is increasing the temperature. Note the depth of the MP... How hot is the container around the liquid line?

This is the point where that 10% FO load (how many ounces per pound was that, anyway?) is beginning to tell on you. While you may have a great HT, the wick isn't burning it cleanly. When there is too much FO in the wax, the wick will struggle to burn it all off cleanly, particularly with heavier, more viscous FOs, resulting in the "mushroom" of material that is not fully combusted.

Using more FO is NOT the key to a better HT in most cases.

If I were testing this container, I would start testing with 1 oz. pp with the CD 10 and see what happens at the mid-end of the container. Just because a wax will hold a higher FO load does NOT mean that you should use that amount. Without additives, I know that C3 will only hold about 6%, so I can't imagine that 464 (a very similar formula) would be much more than that.

People frequently shoot themselves in the foot by using too much FO when doing their initial testing. I always suggest starting with 1 oz. PP and only if the throw is weak with a clean burn, would I think about increasing this amount. People forget that a candle is a SYSTEM and that the more crap you put in with the wax, the more crap the wick has to burn off. MANY new folks discover that when they back off the FO load, and the wick burns more efficiently, they lose NOTHING in the HT, and often even gain a little because the wick wasn't burning the FO at peak efficiency with the higher load.

Edited by Stella1952
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Hi Stella, thanks for the input! The container is fine on the CD10 (around the melt pool) is further up the glass that is a bit warm for my taste. My FO load is coming down. The 10% FO was a "knee jerk reaction" to a low HT candle....MY BAD...that has changed and especially now with your information on how it affects how the wick burns. Thanks so much !!

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Sisters-

I agree with decreasing the FO load- believe me I was one of those that couldnt and still really can't grasp that less FO can still produce strong HT and give you a better burn- I always thought the more the better, I started with 12% if you can believe that!

As far as the 10 getting a little hot- I run into this on some FOs as well but the 8 for my jar doesnt cut it at all and the 12 gets hotter- I am seeing an overall huge difference with the CDN wicks in this wax if your interested in testing those

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Thanks Moonshine! I'm glad that I'm not alone in the "more is better" thinking...at least we know now :)

I would love to test the CDN wicks. I get my CD's from C&S, the Heinz CD's, when I called and asked for CDN she told me that they are the "Natural CD" wicks. At this link http://www.candlesandsupplies.net/Candle-Making/Natural-Coated-Wicks

Is this correct?

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asked for CDN she told me that they are the "Natural CD" wicks

What she may have meant is that she stocks Heinz Stabilo (CD) wicks which are primed with Ecosoya's wick wax (175°F MP).

Wicks can be ordered in many different ways - raw on reels, primed on reels, precut, primed & tabbed wick assemblies, etc. One can order wicks with one of several priming wick waxes - high & low temp paraffin & veggie wax. Some blends contain beeswax; some do not.

If you want to learn more about wicking, read up at manufacturer's & distributors websites.

Understand the difference: the manufacturer is the braiding company that actually manufactures the wicking. A distributor buys the wicking, usually raw on spools or reels, and then primes & tabs the wick assemblies to order for suppliers and large candlemakers.

Examples of manufacturers are Heinz Verhaegh, WEDO, Atkins & Pearce, Fil-Tec, etc.

Examples of distributors are WickIt, Wicks Unlimited, Precision Wicking, etc.

Examples of suppliers are the folks from whom you buy your supplies.

I prefer CDNs with high temp veggie wick wax. It can be ordered from distributors in high & low temp veggie and paraffin wick waxes. Some veggie wick waxes contain beeswax; some do not. I have always used the high temp veggie wax. Works great in both soy & palm waxes. The wick wax matters, so when you are ordering wicks NEVER ASSUME that CDs from any supplier are "the same" as from another supplier. They start out the same, but different priming & tabbing machinery & priming waxes can make a big difference in how the same exact size wick will perform. Buy wicks from one supplier when possible, but test the same wick from other suppliers in case your usual supplier is out. ALWAYS test wicks purchased from a new supplier. ALWAYS test a new batch of wicks from the same supplier in case they changed something... test, test, test...

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Hi Sisters,

I have 4 sizes of CDNs that I bought off the classies. 8, 10, 12, 14. They're from JBN. I'll be happy to send a few of each size. your pics helped me immensely, I'd like to return the favor. Tracey

Thanks Moonshine! I'm glad that I'm not alone in the "more is better" thinking...at least we know now :)

I would love to test the CDN wicks. I get my CD's from C&S, the Heinz CD's, when I called and asked for CDN she told me that they are the "Natural CD" wicks. At this link http://www.candlesandsupplies.net/Candle-Making/Natural-Coated-Wicks

Is this correct?

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Hi Sisters,

I have 4 sizes of CDNs that I bought off the classies. 8, 10, 12, 14. They're from JBN. I'll be happy to send a few of each size. your pics helped me immensely, I'd like to return the favor. Tracey

WOW, that is so nice!!! Thank you very, very much. Let me figure out how to PM you.

Susan

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