Candleburgh Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I live near Early American and actually spoke with John right before he made this useful YouTube video on how to test out wicks. I was in there looking for a new wick to try out on some 3" jars I had with soy wax. Being new to soy, I'm glad I met him! He was able to hold my hand through the whole para-to-soy transition lolHere's a clever way to test out new wicks, and keep track of your discoveries http://youtu.be/esnBcoafKNQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I always enjoy videos like this and at the same time, realize that no matter how good the idea sounds, there is always more to the story.Keep in mind that while this is an interesting place to start, the addition of FO will alter the way the raw wax burns. Also, how the melt pool forms is also altered by the shape of the glass and the depth of the wax top. For example, the glass with a straight up open top will hold in a little heat, and a top that is narrower than the sides will hold in more. Likewise, as the candle burns down, it will hold in even more heat making the melt pool deeper.So while this might be an interesting way to get started, you should always test your candle build and burn all the way with notes to see if the initial selection was correct. I'll bet you'll be making changes before you finalize your selection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Oh boy is EricofAZ right, I'm testing one right now. GW464 in a 3 inch container and a CD-16 wick. Works well with most FO untl I tried CS Honeycomb. It a real wick killer and flame killer, may have to wick up 2 sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Thank-you sooo much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 (edited) This is a version of the slab test. From the Heinz-Verhaegh (CD wick manufacturer) site, you can scroll down to see their version of this using a slab of wax:http://www.heinzverhaegh.com/id79.htmlWhile this may be useful in general testing as a starting point, how that wick performs in a slab of wax is different from how it will perform in a glass container (or, for that matter, a pillar), so further testing is required to dial in the correct wick. Wax reflects and absorbs heat differently from a glass container. One 4 hour test is insufficient to tell how a wick will perform as a candle burns down into a container. The depth of the slab is different from the depth of the container, so, again, one does not get any useful idea of how that wick will perform as the candle burns down. Of course, the addition of dye and FO can change the performance of the wick, so that should be expected. Last, lighting up to 8 wicks in the slab of wax in the pan (as illustrated in the video) will change the overall temperature of that slab of wax and the air surrounding it - it's more like multiple wicking. The number of wicks lit will have an effect on the burn of the others.For people who are very new to candlemaking, I can see where this technique might be marginally useful for a starting point for wick testing, but once one has some experience under their belt, one should have a pretty good idea of a starting point for wick testing without using a slab test. I caution new candlemakers NOT to reply on the data from a slab test as anything more than a VERY general starting point, especially if only the wax is used (without additives, dyes, FOs, etc.).BTW, I can't imagine keeping the slab of wax forever as stated in the video. Take notes, record the diameters, even trace the MP onto paper and then one can remelt the wax. He must have a lot of storage to keep so many slabs so he can simply place a container upside down, to "fit" the diameter to the MP on the slab! A circle on a piece of paper would do just as well for that purpose.Sorry, but to me, there's too much room for error for this to be a very useful test, however "simple" it appears. If wick testing were that simplistic, no one would ever have fits with it!! The containers have to be tested more specifically for dye, FO, etc. anyway, so IMHO, this is a waste of time and wax (especially if you keep the slab forever). Edited July 2, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuminousBoutique Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 yeah the argument I hear most AGAINST testing is that it is a "waste" of wax (what?) So I dont see how this saves any. Unless you're making uncolored, unscented candles, I dont see this being of much use long term. Its a cool theory though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 you might as just use the published wick charts - they are tested with uncolored, unscented paraffin wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackiemoz Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 One reason I quit years ago making candles was because of wick testing. Why can't the candle suppliers have all this already tested. So we can just make the candle and enjoy it. Is this a big secret we are all trying to figure out, so we just keep buying products to keep testing. I think I will stick to tarts, still though my Ecoysoya PB, didn't give me the scent throw I was looking for... I used soy last time, maybe thats why. I have heard its tricky to get a throw with soy... Now looking at the IGI 4794 for tarts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Testing is a necessary evil to making ANY kind of product, especially a consumable. If people don't want to test, they should not sell or give away candles. It's as simple as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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