mzpickles Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 (edited) OK I'll give that a try next time. I never thought that candle making was so scientific! LOL!Yeah, it's definitely more complicated than melt, mix, pour & burn! All I can say is do searches on the boards and read the back posts here, and TEST TEST TEST!! lol! I've learned LOTS since I started posting here! Good luck! Edited March 31, 2010 by mzpickles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Hello...I have been making candles for 14 years and still sometimes have to fight with wax,wicks,fo and coloring! lol! I have found for myself that the C3 works best for soy and I don't usually color my wax and I use CD and HTP wicks..depending on the style of container I am using. I tested 444 a couple of times and loved the hot throw but hated how ugly of a candle I got, no matter how cold or hot I poured.(these are jars).When I did make votives I used straight paraffin...best scent throw and I loved the mottled look. Good luck..Not much advice just throwing it out there that I feel your anger!lol Patience is very hard to come by..I know! lol.Good Luck...Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I never thought that candle making was so scientific!Science is part of everything we do - including cooking and candle making. If you think uneven cooling is "scientific," just wait... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlechic74 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Thanks everyone for all your input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribalvixen Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I tested 444 it has a wonderful ht, ugly as sin. I found the best was to pour when it was really slushy. I think it was about 35C when I poured it. For me with 444 its either frost or craters I couldnt get rid of both. I use cb 135 now and am happy no frost no holes no bumps great ht. Tammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadiap Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I just finished a bag of Ecosoya CB 135 As already mentioned the CB135 is a container wax, and not really suited for votives - you should be using a pillar wax for votives - that's probably why it stuck to your mould and wouldn't release.Not used the B444, so not sure if that is a pillar or a container wax. You need to use the right wax for the whatever candle type you are making Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonsie Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I use cb 135 now and am happy no frost no holes no bumps great ht. TammyTammy, where do you get your CB 135? I've been working with GW 464 since I can just drive over to ACS and not pay for shipping. But the 464 does drive me a little crazy at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribalvixen Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 pmed you Jonsie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadiap Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I probably get mine at the same place that Tammy does - and I'm afraid that I much prefer the CB 135 over the 464. I did try it, but didn't get anywhere near the same results I do with the 135 :-)I still have some 464 here and will play with it again, but I'd rather keep testing various containers using the 135, even though it can be a little finichy at times, but my best results have been with the 135, so I'm sticking to it - at least until they come out with the Xcel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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