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Poll: What Temp Do You Pour 464?


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My box of 464 is dated 12-19-09. I called CS twice last month in reference to this. I understand that batches may vary and that a variable or two may need some adjusting. This batch needs more than adjusting, it needs to be buried!!!!!!!!!

OK now i am sick to my stomach....what is your 464 doing??

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I'm just thinking out loud here: I wonder if your problems are the result of the soybeans themselves and not the processing. I know in my area of the midwest last fall the soybeans were late in being harvested because of the wet year. It was getting late and the farmers HAD to get them out regardless and the moisture level was too high. I know our local co-op had to dry a lot of them. I'm wondering if what you're seeing is the results of the beans being low quality for oil. I'm probably way off track tho.

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Tootie,

I am experiencing every problem, sinkholes, rough tops, etc.....I went as far as pouring 10 candles at a 5 degree difference ranging from 115-160. So much can happen between the harvesting and final product being shipped out. I have way too much money and time invested using the 464. I will have to bite the bullet and order another box. I am testing other waxes just in case.

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OK my candles are fine.... lot number

A 12/19/10 03:06:57 924

I poured them at 150 and they are uncolored. I left them in the shop overnight and they are fine...tops a little rough but nothing the heat gun cant fix. With no heat in the shop they DIDNT even frost!

Mine came from Peaks

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I do not even use a thermometer anymore. The temp in my house and outside is so varied throughout the year, that it is dependent on appearance and feel for me. If it is warm in the house and outside, I pour more on the cool side. If it is cold in the house and outside, I pour more on the warm side, but just use the appearance and feel as my guide. When I first started making candles and someone on the board said they do not use a thermometer, I was wondering how they did that. After many many many candles later, I now understand. Sorry I could not be more help.

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None of the ones with 2 oz stearic per lb showed any signs of oil. While the other batch with less stearic did. Now to let them set over night and see if all is still ok.

The testers didn't leak so I made many more and they did. I didn't keep track of pour temps, just to see if it made any difference. I know it was about 145* to 165*. Most had frosty/crusty tops that when heat gun was used they opened up to holes under.

Today I'm adding 1/2 oz more per lb and going to do a range of pour temps. Always before I had to pour hot to get nice tops.

Also I got to thinking about temp of pouring room. Even though the tarts are and have always been moved from room to room and even to others homes to get wrapped. They were all dried in the pouring room first. I have been hot for the last ten years and have kept fans and window air on all the time. Although this past winter the heat hasn't bothered me as much so it hasn't been as cool. Maybe being cooler, tarts set up faster, locks the oil in??????? Sounds good although I'm sure it's just wishful thinking....:sad2:

So today the air and fans are back.

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Just got an email from Customer Service at CS (they really are great at Customer service). I had called them on the problem as My wax continues to make tiny bubbles and weird textures, and the oil and wax are not mixing. Mind you Ive been using this 464 wax for years as I mentioned so This new dilema with my last 2 batches has me mind boggled. Ive been making candles for 9 yrs so I have a had a lot of things to work through , but I have tried everything and it wont fix. Its weird that several of us are having the same issues:confused:

CS said that its just the nature of the wax , so I will keep trying. Please post if you found out how to use these newer batches of wax that seem to have a mind of there own. I do know I can not pour below 150 without disaster.

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I am also having a difficult time with my 464. I have tried pour temps from 125-170 and my tops look horrible. I have no idea if it is just this box or what. I've never had this problem with this wax. The tops look bumpy and it also looks like the wax and fo aren't mixing. I am adding fo at 175.

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I'm new to 464 so I don't have the experience that any of you have. If it helps, I've tried using CO, UA (long story), and my best results have been with Blending Palm wax. My two batches of 464 are:

11/10/09 14:50:19 817

11/10/09 17:33:18 009

My first batch, the 817, had a lot of white flakes in it (they look frosted). I have no idea how this might affect the candles so I mentioned this to the supplier and they said they didn't know what it meant either. They also said they didn't have anyone calling to complain from that same shipment. My newer box, the 009, doesn't have any white flakes in it, and by coincidence, I'm having better results. I have no idea if my improvements are due to the 009 batch, or using the Blending Palm.

As for pouring temp, I'm getting beautiful tops at 145-165. Frosting on the sides is still a problem... argh!

Edited by jonsie
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Hi everybody!

I never used a thermometer when pouring my soy wax. No matter what type of soy wax I use I always pour the wax when a thin film forms on top of the wax in my pouring cup. This way I very rarely have frosting and tops are always smooth.

Smiles!

Izabela

www.soy-breeze.com

The 464 was made to pour hot.

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The 464 was made to pour hot.

Do you mind if I ask how hot? :confused:

[Edited to add] *in Emily Litella's voice* Nevermind! I re-read back in the thread and found where you stated you poured at 150 degrees. :lipsrseal

Edited by mzpickles
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mz you crack me up:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:I just poured this wax slushy and had tops that were smooth as a baby's butt, I did add a little xcel to it. Just experimenting a little, and I might add the HT is great:yay:in Emily Litella's voice (who is that)?

Edited by soy327
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mz you crack me up:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:I just poured this wax slushy and had tops that were smooth as a baby's butt, I did add a little xcel to it. Just experimenting a little, and I might add the HT is great:yay:in Emily Litella's voice (who is that)?

lol! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Litella

I had to explain to my son the other day why I always say "never mind" in a funny voice. You must not have watched SNL in the early years! :P

Edited by mzpickles
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If you search back several years you can find the test thread when we tested the 464...3 or 4 years ago or so...anyway the big thing was it could be poured hotter than most all the soy waxes on the market at that time. It was formulated to be able to pour hotter. I remember when i tested this wax for Jason and I poured right around 150.

Last night I poured 3 8oz sq mason jar testers and I poured those at 155 with no color added and they turned out beautiful...smooth and no holes by the wick...I will test burn these to find the wick i like best and go from there. Strange how much nicer they looked in the mason jar compared to the 9oz hex.

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I don't use this wax but even if it is the "nature of the soy" I cannot see where the problems are all of a sudden popping up. I haven't done candles much in the past year after taking time off after a surgery but I can feel your pain. I sure hope that all of you are able to narrow down what the problem is.

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I use 464, with 1T CO per lb, I pour between 90-105 degrees. If I am rushing and pour before it turns cloudy, I get rough tops. 90-105 gives me smooth perfect tops. That is what works for me in my kitchen.

Kyme

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I poured 3 candles w/464 in DT status jars last night, 2 in BB's Pineapple Cilantro, and 1 in BB's Apricot Freesia. The Pineapple was poured @160, and the Apricot was poured @145. I had to heat gun the Pineapple candles this morning due to "funky" tops, the Apricot @140 was much better looking. Strange how this same wax can have all these different results.

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