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My First Glass Glow Container!


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Ok, I got my GG from Candlescience yesterday and I poured it...I think the pattern turned out pretty good. Poured hot and covered with a box. I just left the jar on the hot cookie sheet I used to prewarm the jar. The scent is Apple Blossom. I am trying a double wick CSN 7 since that was what was recommended in the layered glass glow tutorial. I guess we will start there. It's a 4 inch wide 10 oz apothecary jar. One problem I had was that I used an ez wick setter with my wicks, had wick stickums on them and when I poured the wicks came loose. What I ended up doing is just pulling them out and inserting after they cooled. Any ideas for getting the wick to better stick in the jars?? Did I do something wrong?

Anyway, it is beautiful and I really like this wax so far...now for wicking it. :P

Jamie

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Good job, especially for your first try! Showy, even crystal pattern. :)

Palm wax is poured so hot that the stickums don't stay stuck. Use high temp silicon rubber gasket maker by Permatex, available at auto parts stores everywhere. Don't use this for testers - just finished products (it's hard to remove).

You're really gonna enjoy how pretty and long-lasting these candles are! :) Good HT, too. :)

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Mini- Yeah it's supposed to look like that with the crystalization. (is that how you spell that?)

Stella- So what do you use to stick your wicks to the bottom for testers?? Thanks for the silicone tip. Also, I read somewhere that some people poke relief holes in their GG and do a repour to prevent air trapping...do you do this?

Jamie

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That is a beautiful candle! You did a great job! :yay: This is what I have found out with the wick stickums, when I would heat the container in the oven, the stickums would sometimes come up when I started to pour the wax, and for me, sometimes is one time too many. Now, I hit the container with my heat gun, and so far have not had one come loose yet.

I am with Stella on the silicone. Only use it on containers you're giving as gifts or selling. It is extremely hard to get them out with the silicone.

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I forgot to mention that I like to use cd wicks with my glass glow. I started out with the csn wicks, but I did not like the large flame and the mushrooms that I would get. I have not used that size jar, but you might order a sample pack and try a cd 8, or try a search and see if anyone has any other suggestions. :)

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Very pretty candle. I love palm wax.

Use high temp silicon rubber gasket maker by Permatex, available at auto parts stores everywhere.

Thanks for the tip. I'm finding some this week. Maybe, I'll do more palm container candles if the wick will stay put.

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So what do you use to stick your wicks to the bottom for testers?? Thanks for the silicone tip. Also, I read somewhere that some people poke relief holes in their GG and do a repour to prevent air trapping...do you do this?

Jamie, I use hot glue for testers. It will also let go sometimes under the higher temps, but it does better than stickums. The time this becomes critical is toward the end of the container when the candle becomes all liquid... usually that's near the bitter end. It holds up well for pouring.

I always make relief holes in palm wax, regardless of pillar, container, etc., because it creates cavernous holes within the candle as it crystallizes. Usually these are around the wick, but can also be located toward the outer shell of the candle (poked my finger through a few pillars before I learned...). I don't just poke holes because palm wax hardens very quickly and seldom fills narrow poke holes all the way down into the candle.

What I do is wait until the top has set up about 1/8" thick. I cut a circle about 3/8" from the outer edge of the candle with a sharp skinny knife. I sink the circle of wax back into the liquid interior of the candle as far down as I can. I repeat this, making the circle a little smaller each time (as the candle's walls harden inward) until I can't do it no mo'... Try not to be messy! It leaves the top looking like frozen colored boogers. :D I level off the largest boogers and hit the top with a heat gun - just enough to melt the top and smooth it. It will not crystallize the same as the rest of the candle, so be sure not to make a real thick liquid layer on top. If ya do this right, the top will look like smooth, fine crystals and the rest will look the same as it does now and the caverns will be gone.

The reason this is so critical is that when the candle burns down, the liquid wax in the melt pool will drain into the "underground" caverns, leaving way too much wick exposed and causing a flare-up.

I like CDNs for palm wax. I use CDs for my votives. GG has a tendency to make a larger flame than other palm wax, so it's important to get the wicking right to prevent sooting & burning off the FO with too high of a flame.

Palm wax really "likes" to burn slow and steady... don't be surprised if the hangup on the jar doesn't melt down until the last half of the jar. This is typical of palm wax. I really like that aspect with GG containers because one can enjoy the crystal appearance longer. The crystals WILL change as the candle burns down, however. Palm containers burn down, then out, so don't be surprised if the candle seems to "tunnel" at first - this is typical and usually works out on subsequent burns.

I LOVE palm wax!!!:yay:

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Not Stella, but I do about the same thing. I take a skewer when a thin shell has formed on top and basically bash in the whole top of the candle, stopping 1/4" or so before I reach the outer edge; looks like a rabid woodpecker has been at it:cheesy2: Don't wait too long to do this, or it won't work. Since you aren't going all the way to the edge, it doesn't affect the crystallization pattern that you see; only the interior and top are affected. I then hit it lightly with a heat gun to make sure the wax runs down; not too much, though, or you'll melt the outer edge and you don't want that. Sometimes I repeat this process a second time just to make sure. At the end, top off carefully (if needed), pouring only up to the original level to avoid a band of wax with a different pattern from showing on the outside of the jar. Sometimes no top off is required, just depends upon how much wax had to run down to fill in holes; in that case, just lightly smooth the top with a heat gun. This is time consuming, but in the end you don't have any caverns to worry about.

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