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Very strange CB advanced


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How bizzare. We used 5% chanel no 5 type (taylored) CD 12 and ecosoya advanced CB. Glass is 2.5" diameter. The wick is probably too small. NO Colour!!! but when it burned for the 1st and 2nd burn times of 4 hours each, the melt pool was a very dark grey, almost black!!! what the hell is going on??

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Reminds me of some of the candles I've had do that. It was soot in the wax for me. The flames would bend over instead of burning completely upright and there would be soot and soot rings in the wax when the candle rehardened. Whenever I did all white candles, the wax would be anywhere between a light gray to a dark gray depending on how it burned and what # burn I was on.

hth.

Kimberly

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I dont use your wax or that FO, so I might not know what I am talking about. But to me it seems your wick is to big. For my jars that are 2.5" (when I was doing just soy, 415 & EL) I used a CD 8 and I colored my candles. So I would say wick down and see what happens.

Also did you trim the wick? So times if you dont trim it properly the droppings will get into the wax and make it look nasty.

Well I hope this helps some and sorry if it doesnt. GL

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How bizzare. We used 5% chanel no 5 type (taylored) CD 12 and ecosoya advanced CB. Glass is 2.5" diameter. The wick is probably too small. NO Colour!!! but when it burned for the 1st and 2nd burn times of 4 hours each, the melt pool was a very dark grey, almost black!!! what the hell is going on??

I don't use that soy, but I do use soy. It can happen with paraffin blends too. Some fragrances will do this and do not make the best fragrances for non-colored candles. Amber Moon and Casaba Mist will do this in my non-colored candles. It is a reaction from the heat. Amber Moon will turn a dark grey color and Casaba Mist will turn light blue! There is nothing you can do about it. I have found I either have to live with it (which I won't) or use it in a colored line. I have also found that if the color is two light, it will still get a dingy looking meltpool. It is best to use a darker color. Right now, I don't have a line with colore other than my wickless so I have not been able to use these oils.

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P.S. again. I have also found that double wicked candles will make it worse because they usually get hotter than single wicked candles. When I was testing the Palm wax, I had this happen with some oils more than in other waxes, but it mainly happened when I was trying to double wick it vs. single wicking. You can still have the problem though with some even if your jar is a single wicked jar. It definitely is a reaction from the oil, wax and heat.

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I vote for overwicked. Try an 8. :)

This is not always the cause unless what she is talking about is soot residue. For example.....Amber Moon double wicked in the soy I use (4 inch container) which is NOT over wicked got discolored. If I wicked down the flames would be way to weak. The flames were nice and would not want them down in size. It was not soot discoloration but a discoloration from a reaction to oil, wax and heat which will cause discoloration. However, if a candle is over wicked and is real hot, the discoloration will be worse. Casaba Mist was actually worse in a paraffin blend single wicked than it was in my soy double wicked. It would turn blue in the single wicked paraffin blend jar. Most oils in a non-colored soy candle and even some paraffin blend candles will leave a bit of discoloration in the resolidified meltpool, but it is usually a little more on the yellow tan side. There is no color to hide it. I notice that some waxes are worse about this than others. There are oils though that won't leave much discoloration at all. I am not talking about soot discoloration in the wax. I very seldom ever get that with my soy candles unless I do a marathon burn and never trim the wicks and it is still not real bad. The soot "discoloration" I speak of is more of a residue on top.

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How bizzare. We used 5% chanel no 5 type (taylored) CD 12 and ecosoya advanced CB. Glass is 2.5" diameter. The wick is probably too small. NO Colour!!! but when it burned for the 1st and 2nd burn times of 4 hours each, the melt pool was a very dark grey, almost black!!! what the hell is going on??

Did you notice the grey/black color when the meltpool was still liquid? If so, that to me that would be soot in the wax. Or, are you talking about a discoloration after the meltpool hardens that does not look like soot residue but just looks different in color? What I have noticed is, when it is caused from soot, not only will the meltpool be ugly after it hardens but there will be actual soot particles on top. The discoloration that I was talking about in my post and what I thought you were talking about was just a change in the color in the meltpool with no soot residue.

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I vote for overwicked. Try an 8. :)

Actually, I take that back!! For some reason, I was thinking 1.75"...:rolleyes2 A 10 or 12 should have done nicely... With the black melt pool, I can't believe that more heat would help. Have you used this same wax with any other FO from the same source? I am curious if this is an anomaly of THAT particular FO, as many folks here use CBA without such problems...:confused:

What is the SHAPE of the container? Is it straight-sided, taper in or out or does it have shoulders (like an apothecary)? Different shaped containers present different wicking challenges...

Your testing period is a little long - 1 hour per inch of diameter to the end of the container is generally what's recommended until you get the wicking dialed in - DO trim your wick before each burn during the initial controlled testing. Once you have a good test burn all the way to the end, THEN do a powerburn to ensure the container doesn't become too hot or the wax discolored.

I don't blame you for bailing before the end of the container on this test, however, because it's obvious something is very wrong, either with the wick size or the FO itself.

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Thanks for all your help. I don't think it is overwicked as it would drown if I went smaller. I actually don't really like working with CB advanced as I have a lot more troubles than with 415 and C3, but one has to test other products. I am doing as you said, Stella about burning it for less on the first test. I usually burn so they are idiot proof right from the beginning. Very ugly melt pool and definately not from soot, must be FO. I use this FO in paraffin pillars and colour and don't have any issues. I am going to test this FO in C3 and let you know (when I get a gap to do some testing)

Ta again for your replies

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Hello...I used to use CBA..I loved it..but I ended up going 50/50 with 415 for a better throw..and it worked.Got the best of both worlds..although I didn't test all of my fo's..as i went out of business...I was pleased with the end result of the two together.Just thought I would share.:smiley2:

Kimmeroo

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