grrrrrrrr I'm fighting with wicks!

[cybersix]

And I'm losing the battle LOL!!!

I'm trying to wick a 3" diameter tumbler, the soy I use is unknown brand but vendor told me it's pure soy. I used 1 oz pp of pink sugar by peaks.

I tried an ECO 12 and it didn't catch the sides.

Tried an LX 24 and it didn't make it after 4 hours, I still have 1/4 inch left.

Is it so hard wicking this wax lol!! I mean, an LX 24 should make it... or not?

I have HTPs, ECOs, LXs, cotton core, and waiting for CDs samples to test.

At the moment the wicks I like best are LXs because I get a nicer, quite flame, no mushrooming and no ashes on the melt pool. Also, the melt pool once is cooled looks a lot better than with any other wick. ECO to me burned too "violently" if this is a term LOL, and the wick was ugly to look at.

Any suggestion on wich size to pick? I have few of each wick left, so I'd like to go with care.

TIA

[tootie04]

If it is pure soy...that is the hardest one to burn IMO. Try a CD14 in it. Remember do NOT go for full melt pool in the first 1-3 burns. You want it close but not full. Often if you get a FMP on the first burn your candle jar will be way to hot by the time you are half-way down.

Hang onto your hair and dont give up...you'll get it!!:tiptoe:

[Meg_10]

POOR GIRL!!!

Try the CD, I just tested some candles and CD seems to burn so good

way better than other wicks I tried.

Hang in there, You'll get it.

Hugs

Meg

[1820house]

I agree, the cd wicks perform very well for me. I do not use 100 percent soy but it is 95 percent - the rest botanical / plant.

In that size jar I use a cd 14 or cd 16.

Just a note. Not all waxes are created equall and I only know since I have tried a few. In the beginning I had a wax that was so bad to wick that I almost gave up. If you continue having problems with the wick, I would try a different wax as well.

Good Luck.

[Marcus Daniel]

If you have a HTP 105, I would try that it worked for me!!! Since it is soy, you might look and see what the normal size for that container and then go up 1 size or possibly 2 sizes on the wick. Good Luck!!!

[Holly]

And I'm losing the battle LOL!!!

I'm trying to wick a 3" diameter tumbler, the soy I use is unknown brand but vendor told me it's pure soy. I used 1 oz pp of pink sugar by peaks.

I tried an ECO 12 and it didn't catch the sides.

Tried an LX 24 and it didn't make it after 4 hours, I still have 1/4 inch left.

Is it so hard wicking this wax lol!! I mean, an LX 24 should make it... or not?

I have HTPs, ECOs, LXs, cotton core, and waiting for CDs samples to test.

At the moment the wicks I like best are LXs because I get a nicer, quite flame, no mushrooming and no ashes on the melt pool. Also, the melt pool once is cooled looks a lot better than with any other wick. ECO to me burned too "violently" if this is a term LOL, and the wick was ugly to look at.

Any suggestion on wich size to pick? I have few of each wick left, so I'd like to go with care.

TIA

I sure understand your frustration. The soy I use is a bugger to single wick. I may not have tried as hard as you, but mainly because I use it in double wicked apothecary jars and did not have to use it in my single wicked jars. I could never get it single wicked well in any sized jar. I use soy/paraffin blends for single wicked jars and to me that is hard enough. I dislike testing for single wicks, but I have to for the spa line I am creating.

I don't have much help to offer other than to encourage you to keep plugging away. I have heard many have great results with the CD's for hard to burn waxes. So maybe when you get those, you will find those to work. I have tried them but I never ended up using them. You may find out that another wax would work better in that jar. Some waxes just are not right for certain jars. The Crissa jars look like a good kind of jar for the waxes that are hard to wick. They kinda have a look of a tumbler but are a little taller and narrower.

Good luck!

[Holly]

P.S. From my single wick testing I too prefer the look of the burn with the LX's over the CD's and Eco's. But every application is different. This was just for what I was testing. I also prefer the look of the LX wick. It does not have those lines running through it and are not as noticeable to me when the candle is new.

[cybersix]

thanks everyone for your help.

I'm waiting for CD wicks to come, and I'll sure try those, as many of you say they work well.

I can't switch type of wax because here in italy it's just a miracle having found the one I have.

And I can't double wick because it's not a jar, it's a tumbler, so in the bottom there's not enough space to allow two wicks.

This is for my personla line, so I could change tumblers and choose something less wide, but I'm working on a spa line for a customer also, and they have a tapered tumbler the opening is a tad larger than a 3", and the bottom is 2"!

I'm not sure why soy can't catch sides upon the first burn. I was aiming at that because my customer would like to have candles that burn like that.. so should I tell him it'd be better to change his mind?

Thanks a lot!

[pwillo2]

I finally got the wicking right on the small Libbey cube, the diameter is 3 and 1/8 inches with a LX 26 and a CD 14.

On both sizes there was some hangup on the first and second burns but it was good to go after that.

[cybersix]

I finally got the wicking right on the small Libbey cube, the diameter is 3 and 1/8 inches with a LX 26 and a CD 14.

On both sizes there was some hangup on the first and second burns but it was good to go after that.

thank you very much!

LX 26 is my next choice, while I'm waiting for the CDs.

Did you notice big differences with the two wicks?

[tootie04]

I would tell this guy to live with the hang up in the beginning. I will bet if you get FMP on the first burn your jar will be too hot at the bottom....especially if it is smaller diam on the bottom than the top.

tootie

[pwillo2]

Did you notice big differences with the two wicks?

I did not notice a big difference at all. I just prefer CD's, but I always like to have a choice in case I run out or who knows what might could happen...LOL

[Jeana]

I do a 2.75" tumbler. I wick some FOs with an lx 26 and some with an lx 24. I like to get a full melt pool on the first burn too with out having a large flame. One thing that helps me get a better melt pool with my first burn is to heat gun the tops flat for the first burn. If I don't my wax is higher on the sides, and it dips down toward the center. If I leave it like that to start it can seem like my wick is too small. Maybe this is something that is happening to yours too.

I also like CDs too but I get less bending with lx wicks.

[cybersix]

I do a 2.75" tumbler. I wick some FOs with an lx 26 and some with an lx 24. I like to get a full melt pool on the first burn too with out having a large flame. One thing that helps me get a better melt pool with my first burn is to heat gun the tops flat for the first burn. If I don't my wax is higher on the sides, and it dips down toward the center. If I leave it like that to start it can seem like my wick is too small. Maybe this is something that is happening to yours too.

I also like CDs too but I get less bending with lx wicks.

Thanks Jeana,

my 3" tumbler isn't making it with an LX26, so while I'm waiting for CD wicks I'll test with LX28.

The sides didn't catch even after the 4th burn. This is not my ideal of candle LOL!!

Besides I have to say I have no problem with sinking tops. They come out perfect with just one pour and no heat gun, but thanks for pointing this to me.

:rolleyes2 ah, joy of candlemaking!!!

[Sharon in KY]

If it is pure soy...that is the hardest one to burn IMO. Try a CD14 in it. Remember do NOT go for full melt pool in the first 1-3 burns. You want it close but not full. Often if you get a FMP on the first burn your candle jar will be way to hot by the time you are half-way down.

Hang onto your hair and dont give up...you'll get it!!:tiptoe:

When did this "don't go to a full melt pool on the first burn" start? I have been making soy candles 7yrs.+ and have never heard this before until lately. I totally disagree.

[tootie04]

Because 90% of the time the wick ends up being to big half-way down the jar. Then you have a 1/2 inch or more melt pool and a way too hot jar.

On tins you dont either cause tins will catch up in the last few burns and not get too hot.

To each their own and everyone has to do their own testing and can only go by the suggestions of others. In the end you make your own decisions on what is a good candle. Some think you have to have a deep hot melt pool for a great candle and some dont.

tootie