Lightning Bug Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hi. I have a book that shows how to do this and then a finish pour in paraffin. Do you do it essentially the same way? It says to gently make a circle around the wick with a popsicle stick about 1" deep. It sounds like you do this while the inside of the candle is still liquidy (is that a word?) About how long would you wait to do this on soy? I tried when it was fairly set up, but not sure of the proper technique. TIA for all lthe help. Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hi. I have a book that shows how to do this and then a finish pour in paraffin. Do you do it essentially the same way? It says to gently make a circle around the wick with a popsicle stick about 1" deep. It sounds like you do this while the inside of the candle is still liquidy (is that a word?) About how long would you wait to do this on soy? I tried when it was fairly set up, but not sure of the proper technique. TIA for all lthe help. BethHey Beth. Thanks for posting this. I was wondering the same thing. I am thinking that if I can't fix my problem any other way without having to zap those darn tops and messing up the beauty, I may have to resort to a re-pour. I am DESPERATE to make this work. I look forward to the answers. My main questions are when you poke and pour the second round. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DolphinLVR Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hey Beth. Thanks for posting this. I was wondering the same thing. I am thinking that if I can't fix my problem any other way without have to zap those darn tops and messing up the beauty, I may have to resort to a re-pour. I am DESPERATE to make this work. I look forward to the answers. My main questions are when you poke and pour the second round. Thanks!I use Calwax CB10 for my votives/pillars and found that I must poke relief holes. I poke the holes with a bamboo skewer after there has been a film developed on top then I do my re-pour (10 degrees hotter) after the candles have cooled completely.If this thread is pertaining to container wax, then pardon my post as I have yet to start on containers although I just purchased a case of Calwax CB30 and anxiously waiting to begin my testing.Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightning Bug Posted November 2, 2005 Author Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hi Jeff, I guess I didn't get all the info in the question. Yes, it is soy container wax I'm having troubles with, but probably the technique would be about the same? Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I wait until the candle has set up either most of the way or all the way, then poke my holes and hit it with the heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I use Calwax CB10 for my votives/pillars and found that I must poke relief holes. I poke the holes with a bamboo skewer after there has been a film developed on top then I do my re-pour (10 degrees hotter) after the candles have cooled completely.If this thread is pertaining to container wax, then pardon my post as I have yet to start on containers although I just purchased a case of Calwax CB30 and anxiously waiting to begin my testing.JeffThanks Jeff for the info. I may give this a try instead of using the heat gun method as much as I hate to think of a repour. ~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I wait until the candle has set up either most of the way or all the way, then poke my holes and hit it with the heat gun.Hi Kaybee,This is what I have been doing, but I hate messing with the pretty tops even though I have too. I thought that if I resort to a repour I can have the nice tops back. But what a pain in the you know what to do a repour. ~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 They are a pain and I would like to not have to do them. But every time I don't, I end up with little caverns around the wicks. :embarasse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattle70 Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 I use Calwax CB10 for my votives/pillars and found that I must poke relief holes. I poke the holes with a bamboo skewer after there has been a film developed on top then I do my re-pour (10 degrees hotter) after the candles have cooled completely.If this thread is pertaining to container wax, then pardon my post as I have yet to start on containers although I just purchased a case of Calwax CB30 and anxiously waiting to begin my testing.JeffDid you ever test this wax? Is seem so tempting. Air pockets are driving me nuts. Let me know how it pours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Did you ever test this wax? Is seem so tempting. Air pockets are driving me nuts. Let me know how it pours!Hi Seattle,If you mean the CB-30, I tested it. It is a very pretty wax and easy to use. But, it burned too fast for double wicking in the jars I use. It was a little hard to wick for me -- got weak flames a lot. However, I only tried zinc, LX's, HTP and I think I may have tried the ECO's in it. I use the RRD's and sometimes the Hemps now which work great in the CB-3 Calsoy and maybe they would work better in the CB-30. If you single wick you may not find it hard to wick. It has been awhile since I tested it but I remember it having a good scent throw. The scent throw was not really the problem. I am not sure which one would win at this point -- Calsoy CB-3 or CB-30 -- too long since I tested the CB-30 -- maybe the CB-3. I never got any sinkholes or airpockets. Oh, I did get some soot -- not real bad but the dreadful soot none the least. I have the kind of jars though that tend to cause/collect soot. Your jars may work fine. I don't get soot at all with the Calsoy C-3 Soy. I think the CB-30 would be worth your try. HTH~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quietgirl2004 Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 http://www.candletech.com/metalpillarmolds/step7.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 I am reading through these posts totally perplexed! Poking relief holes in soy? Doing repours? Soy container candles? I have NEVER done this with my candles. I don't have air pockets or sink holes- and I have literally poured a soy candle in a pringles can, peeled it away and sawed it in half to check for these issues. I scan thru this section and see alot of posts with issues on the C series waxes. What gives? It seems like there are nothing but frosting and sink hole issues. Correct me if I am wrong. Why do people keep buying this wax if its so troublesome? My recommendation is to cool slower and make sure the room you are working in is warm. Very warm- soy doesn't not respond well to cold or sudden temperature changes. After you do the pouring and the candles are about half way congealed - tap your jars firmly on a counter or flat surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siberia Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Ditto what Mystical Angel said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quietgirl2004 Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 I thought she was doing pillars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siberia Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 I think both were being talked about. For the record, I do poke relief holes in soy pillars...just not in my containers. Sorry for the confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattle70 Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Hi Seattle,If you mean the CB-30, I tested it. It is a very pretty wax and easy to use. But, it burned too fast for double wicking in the jars I use. It was a little hard to wick for me -- got weak flames a lot. However, I only tried zinc, LX's, HTP and I think I may have tried the ECO's in it.....~HollyI like the CB3 but got some sinkholes which are really time consuming. I looked at Swan's website and they really tote this as a miracle wax so I got curious. I only use 9 oz mason's so I may have to give it a shot. They also say it already has all the additives which would also save me some testing. I have been using CD14's and they seem to work pretty good. I also use the Eco 10/12. They seem to work fine for the most part. I have also resorted to repours out of sheer frustration. Poking holes seems to do nada.Again, thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 I like the CB3 but got some sinkholes which are really time consuming. I looked at Swan's website and they really tote this as a miracle wax so I got curious. I only use 9 oz mason's so I may have to give it a shot. They also say it already has all the additives which would also save me some testing. I have been using CD14's and they seem to work pretty good. I also use the Eco 10/12. They seem to work fine for the most part.I have also resorted to repours out of sheer frustration. Poking holes seems to do nada.Again, thanks again for your help.Regarding the Calsoy CB-3, yes, the sinkholes/invisible airpockets are a pain in the butt. But I have heard that many soys can get them. I hate it because it is not only time consuming but when you go to fix it it ruins the pretty tops -- No longer unfrosted and smooth. I mean what is the point of a wax that gets smooth tops if you have to ruin them to fix the airpockets. I too have resorted to a repour -- actually a partial repour then I zap. Even if you do a whole repour it never seems to come out as smooth. The frost is not great but it is not what drives me the most crazy. Frostop helps tremendously with some of the really bad frosters -- but have found that it does not help with all of them -- really weird. The CB-30 which I tested last year was really easy to use -- no sink holes, airpockets or frost. If I remember correctly it did not get wet spots either -- at least not bad ones that are really noticeable. It had a great scent throw to my nose at the time. It is a pretty wax. It just burned too fast for my jars with double wicking and I got the weak flames. Also, you will get some soot in certain circumstances -- depends on the jar, double wicking or not, etc. If I were you, I would try it. You may not have the same problems. Robin in OR uses it. Good luck with the testing. ~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marilyn Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Mystical Angel, do you mind mentioning what kind of wax you use that you don't have such problems? I've had enough problems with my wax, I'm ready to trade it in!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Mystical Angel, do you mind mentioning what kind of wax you use that you don't have such problems? I've had enough problems with my wax, I'm ready to trade it in!! I actually formulated my own proprietary blend. :smiley2: Its a mixture of about 4 different kinds of natural wax. No ECO, Calsoy, Cargill or Ez Soy. I take a big tote and mix it in 100 lb quantities so I don't have to play around with different waxes when I go to make candles.Many moons ago I used to use plain 415. With all the crop issues and changes in quality I decided to mix it with different kinds of natural wax so I could pour hotter and not have a ton of "fixing" to do with the heatgun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 I am reading through these posts totally perplexed! Poking relief holes in soy? Doing repours? Soy container candles? I have NEVER done this with my candles. I don't have air pockets or sink holes- and I have literally poured a soy candle in a pringles can, peeled it away and sawed it in half to check for these issues. I scan thru this section and see alot of posts with issues on the C series waxes. What gives? It seems like there are nothing but frosting and sink hole issues. Correct me if I am wrong. Why do people keep buying this wax if its so troublesome? My recommendation is to cool slower and make sure the room you are working in is warm. Very warm- soy doesn't not respond well to cold or sudden temperature changes. After you do the pouring and the candles are about half way congealed - tap your jars firmly on a counter or flat surface.That is great that you have found a soy that not only meets your other criteria, but does not get the airpockets, etc. I for one, who uses the CB-3 Calsoy, use it because out of all the soys that I have used so far, it gives me the best scent throw (like the way the fragrances smell in it) and I can get it close. I did not notice the hidden airpockets until I started to make my final candles with wicks adhered and ran some tests -- after testing many with no wicks adhered when wax is poured (poke holes and stick them in before burning). It seems that when I make one without the wicks I will get the dip and circular crack but do not seem to to get the hidden airpockets. When I adhere the wicks and pour the wax into the jars with the wicks I do not usually get the dip and crack but will usually get a hidden airpocket. I think that it must be that the wicks add leverage and does not allow the top to sink down towards the center and causes more gaps in the middle where there is shrinkage. Whereas, when I make the wickless testers the top sinks down and maybe that helps fill in the gap in the middle (airpocket). This is the only thing I can think of. I am pretty sure that I have never expereinced a hidden airpockets with my wickless testers (after I poke two holes for wicks and burn). I do know that usually airpockets form around wicks and maybe this is why I do not experience them when I make my test candles with no wicks when poured. I do pour cool and I even have a heater in my kitchen since the rest of my house is pretty cool. I have not tried tapping the jars firmly on the counter. I may try that. Thanks for the input. Which soy do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 I actually formulated my own proprietary blend. :smiley2: Its a mixture of about 4 different kinds of natural wax. No ECO, Calsoy, Cargill or Ez Soy. I take a big tote and mix it in 100 lb quantities so I don't have to play around with different waxes when I go to make candles.Many moons ago I used to use plain 415. With all the crop issues and changes in quality I decided to mix it with different kinds of natural wax so I could pour hotter and not have a ton of "fixing" to do with the heatgun.You answered my question as I wrote it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Your welcome.I see you have figured out one of the waxes I use. I'll give you another one- I use the Superior Soy from Southern Sensations as well.Well thats 2 out of 4 I have revealed.... LMAO!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Your welcome.I see you have figured out one of the waxes I use. I'll give you another one- I use the Superior Soy from Southern Sensations as well.Well thats 2 out of 4 I have revealed.... LMAO!! Thanks for the second one! Ok, I assume with the four that you blend you have a great scent throw. How is the frosting issue with your blend? I would rather have no sinkholes or airpockets than no frosting. I can live with some frost but the time consuming "fixing" is a pain in the butt!! I will have to hang in there for now until I either find another blend that is better or have the time and desire to try to mix my own. My candles are great for the most part for the customers but a lot more work for me. santa roll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Frosting can occur with any wax- including paraffin.The usual culprit is temperature change. Red and purple are notorious for the frosting issue. I don't experience alot of frosting with my candles. I usually pour and store them in a warmer room of the house when dealing with those two colors. If frosting and or jump lines are present in your finished candle, you can put them in 175 -200 degree oven and remelt them completely and cool slower in a WARMER area and this should alleviate the problem. When I say cool slower I mean placing the candles on a piece of styrofoam and placing a box over them to slow the cooling process down.Make sure you watch those candles- if you leave them in the oven too long your wick sticker will release the wick and u will have a wickless candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marilyn Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Wow, SS wax was one I am ready to throw as far as I could. But you have given me hope and some ideas! Thanks Mystical Angel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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