Is Glass Glow..

[cybersix]

a real one pour wax?

I read so on CS site, but wanted to ask to all of you users of this wax!

TIA

[anabanana's candles]

IMO No, You could, but then you would have air pockets all over. The top hardens pretty quick and air gets trapped underneath. I always do a second pour, if not I find that the wick drowns out.

[cybersix]

oh... that's not what I wanted to hear LOL!!

I thought it was formulated as a one pour wax..

thanks!

[Karen B]

I have to agree with ana. It doesn't get "sink holes" but every single GG jar I have ever poured when I check it an hour later I find air trapped right under the surface. It's really not that big of a deal, really.

Karen B

[cybersix]

but you stll have to poke holes and refill.. is the repour line visible?

[Karen B]

Yes I poke holes, you need to get those air pockets out. When I do the repour I kind of do it like the bottom of a pillar. I get the melt pool as close to the glass edge as possible without creating a repour line that is visible from the outside of the jar. (make sense?)

Karen B

[sharig]

Hey Cybersix,

Some people on here do repours, others do not. It just depends I guess.

There are some people on here that are what I consider the "experts" and have tested and tested some more. (Hint Hint, STELLA AND JAKALEX!!!!!)

These ladies have great advice!

Anyway, I've poured GG several times in about 3 different types of containers. The hardest part I had with this wax is the wicking. It's tough to wick in my opinion. But, I seem to be getting the hang of it. Of course, I'm testing and testing some more.

As for your question, I've not yet had to repour the GG and have always used it as a one pour wax. But......I also cover them and let them sit in the oven for hours after I pour them. It takes them forever and year it seems to cool. But so far, it seems to be working, haven't gotten any air pockets yet.

I guess it just all depends on the person. Sorry, I couldn't give you any more definitive answers.

Shari

[jakalex]

For the most part this was is a one pour wax. I have found though that most containers 3+ inches do need to be double wicked.

Layering the containers does help with the air pockets. I also have found that if you do want to poke relief holes and not want to have a re pour line do this:

Pour your main color and leave about 1/2-1 inch space. Poke relief holes several times during the cooling process, then once the candle cools poor a contrasting color to fill. I heat the top layer with the heat gun to obtain the crystal affect. They look really nice too!

[Sharon in KY]

For the most part this was is a one pour wax. I have found though that most containers 3+ inches do need to be double wicked.

Layering the containers does help with the air pockets. I also have found that if you do want to poke relief holes and not want to have a re pour line do this:

Pour your main color and leave about 1/2-1 inch space. Poke relief holes several times during the cooling process, then once the candle cools poor a contrasting color to fill. I heat the top layer with the heat gun to obtain the crystal affect. They look really nice too!

That's a good ideal. Even with the same color it would look good. How hot would you pour the layers so it didn't get between the glass and the wax? Or is that not a problem?

As for your question, I've not yet had to repour the GG and have always used it as a one pour wax. But......I also cover them and let them sit in the oven for hours after I pour them. It takes them forever and year it seems to cool. But so far, it seems to be working, haven't gotten any air pockets yet.

Sari

Sounds like a great ideal since I don't pour many at a time. What are you covering them with and what temp is the oven? Thanks

[Stella1952]

Is Glass Glow a real one pour wax?

No, not in the truest sense of the term. I have not used any kind of palm wax that did not require employing some relief technique for air trapping, which messes up tops considerably. Layering DOES help with this, especially if one is pouring thin layers. The thicker the layer, the more chance of air trapping. It depends upon HOW you finish the candle. Some folks prefer to second pour after doing the air trap relief work, but I hardly ever second pour... I use other methods to finish off the tops.

When pouring layers whether in containers or in molded candles, there is a certain "sweet spot" to hit between when the wax has set up enough to support the layer that will be poured on top of it without melting, and when it has cooled so much that it has contracted from the side of the container or mold (which would allow the wax to seep between). Because Glass Glow is formulated for containers, it doesn't contract from the container much, so it's much easier to pour layers with it than with molded candles made from votive/pillar blends. Sometimes the little bit that may seep between the two layers looks cool; other times it spoils the effect. It just depends...

I don't generally second-pour after relieving the air traps - with pillars and some votives, the messiness of the relief technique is finished off when the candle is wicked and the bottom is leveled. With containers and molded candles where the top IS the top of the candle, I use a heat gun to smooth the top off. The crystal pattern is not quite the same as the rest of the candle, but it looks neat and nice. HTH

[cybersix]

thanks to everyone! I'll skip this wax, then.

I have to make (maybe, tomorrow I'll know for sure) candles in containers for a big company.

They saw my palm pillars, and I played with the idea of using glass glow.

But since the work is huge I want something easy and fast to work with. No slow cooling, no repouring, no finishing with heat gun or almost nothing.

I'll explain them all the possibilities, and see what they think, because if they want me to work fast I have to find a reasonable middle point.

Thanks!

[Stella1952]

I'll skip this wax, then....since the work is huge I want something easy and fast to work with. No slow cooling, no repouring, no finishing with heat gun or almost nothing.

The more you do with any wax, the more cost-efficient and less labor-intensive it becomes because (hopefully!) you get BETTER at it and develop your own techniques that work for you. Describing things in words ALWAYS takes more time than just doing it! I'm sorry you don't think it's worth the time...:undecided

ALL veggie waxes are a PITA from what I have read... I'd rather take the extra time and make something unusual than make production-line items... but that's just me.:undecided

[cybersix]

The more you do with any wax, the more cost-efficient and less labor-intensive it becomes because (hopefully!) you get BETTER at it and develop your own techniques that work for you. Describing things in words ALWAYS takes more time than just doing it! I'm sorry you don't think it's worth the time...:undecided

ALL veggie waxes are a PITA from what I have read... I'd rather take the extra time and make something unusual than make production-line items... but that's just me.:undecided

I really don't know what to decide.

They say they are in a hurry.

I never worked with glass glow.

So, it's not easy. But as you said, I'd like to do something unique. I don't know if I can. Also, everything to me it's more difficult, I can't have a small quantity shipped for testing, I have to buy large quantity, then there are customs duties.

Everything becomes harder and takes longer.

Thanks for your advice, it's true, everyone of us find the way to get better.. just don't know if I have the time. They don't even think I need time just to test their containers and fo!!!!

[jakalex]

That's a good ideal. Even with the same color it would look good. How hot would you pour the layers so it didn't get between the glass and the wax? Or is that not a problem?

I let each layer cool completely between pours and then heat each new layer with the heat gun until liquefied. I still pour at the same temp b/w 195-200. The wax does not shrink like palm pillar wax so no seeping b/w layers.

I have found if I do not let each layer cool completely the colors do bleed slightly.

[Sharon in KY]

I let each layer cool completely between pours and then heat each new layer with the heat gun until liquefied. I still pour at the same temp b/w 195-200. The wax does not shrink like palm pillar wax so no seeping b/w layers.

I have found if I do not let each layer cool completely the colors do bleed slightly.

Doesn't shrink, that's great to hear. What did you mean that you "heat each new layer with the heat gun" is that the next layer's wax you heat with a heat gun till 195-200*, then pour? Or the layer that has cooled?

[Sharon in KY]

Thought of something else.. When doing the layered candles. What do you do, because I've read the jars need to be heated, with each layer since getting the jar warm again will melt the already set up wax? I'm going to heat a little wax right now and try something. Thanks

[jakalex]

Thought of something else.. When doing the layered candles. What do you do, because I've read the jars need to be heated, with each layer since getting the jar warm again will melt the already set up wax? I'm going to heat a little wax right now and try something. Thanks

I heat the jars for the first layer. Once this layer is cooled I then pour the next layer @ 195-200. The glass is not heated so once I pour the next layer I heat gun the layer I have just poured, turning the glass until it releases from the sides of the glass and liquefies again.

Next time I make one I will take pics of the process and post.

[kandlekrazy]

I heat the jars for the first layer. Once this layer is cooled I then pour the next layer @ 195-200. The glass is not heated so once I pour the next layer I heat gun the layer I have just poured, turning the glass until it releases from the sides of the glass and liquefies again.

Next time I make one I will take pics of the process and post.

Maybe a class in layered GG?

[Sharon in KY]

I heat the jars for the first layer. Once this layer is cooled I then pour the next layer @ 195-200. The glass is not heated so once I pour the next layer I heat gun the layer I have just poured, turning the glass until it releases from the sides of the glass and liquefies again.

Next time I make one I will take pics of the process and post.

Got it. I know what you mean, heat the top of the just poured wax so it turns liquid because it starts setting up as soon as you pour. I do that with soy when I'm doing a repour and it's a little too cool. Thanks

[jakalex]

Got it. I know what you mean, heat the top of the just poured wax so it turns liquid because it starts setting up as soon as you pour. I do that with soy when I'm doing a repour and it's a little too cool. Thanks

I actually heat the glass at the new layer until it releases from the sides of the glass. It does not take long so the container does not get hot enough to affect the cooled layer.