candlemaker74 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Hi,Does anyone know what, exactly, causes the thin circular cracking and sinking in soy?Trying to come at this a different way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vio Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I'm starting to think it's almost like when you make cooked pudding. It cools from the outside in, then the outside skin, dries a little faster. If you let it sit, it cracks open as it sinks. That skin on top sticks to the side of the pot though. The adhesion. You see sinking as it cools off. Cooling makes things shrink, heat makes things expand. I think glass adhesion being really good, and the cooling where the wax solidifies, makes the sinking thing. You really have to explain a few things I think, for anyone to troubleshoot your problem. I asked you in the other thread, what you were doing. I think it would help others if they knew a few things. From other thread...What are you using to melt your wax? What kind of thermometer do you have? What FO are you using? What dye are you using? What is the lowest setting on your oven and have you checked it for accuracy? Are you using the rack to let them set up, in oven? How far are you spacing them from each other while cooling? How much wax are you melting at a time? Where do you live, and what's your weather like lately?It could be the larger the area, diameter of jar, the more you might get sinking. Bigger area solidifying, makes sense it might sink more. What is the diameter of the jar you're using? I know I get the same thing with my C-3, but it's nothing drastic. I did as others said a few times with the finger rub thing, and the crack was gone. If the sinking is too much for me, I zap it really quick on low setting with the heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlemaker74 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Hi,I have a Presto pot and am using a digital thermometer.I have poured the wax at 130, 135, 140, 145, 150, 155...I have heated the glasses before I poured the wax and I have not...I have put the glasses in the oven on 170 (lowest setting), taken them out, turned the oven off, poured the wax in, and returned them to the oven to let them cool in the oven...I have put them in a cardboard box...I have put them in a cardboard box and cut a whole in the box and turned a hair dryer on low...I have let them cool in front of the fireplace...I am running out of ideas...I am just using the wax so far, I have not added a FO, dye, or wick yet...I usually melt 2 pounds at a time and pour four containers each time...Makes sense that the outside would cool faster than the inside and that is why the sinking center - thus the thin crack around the sinking center...Now, how to get the outside and inside to cool at the same rate.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vio Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Things naturally cool from the outside in. I guess the most you can do is bring the wax temp down as evenly as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Things naturally cool from the outside in. I guess the most you can do is bring the wax temp down as evenly as possible.Or decrease the brittleness of the wax so that it doesn't crack as readily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vio Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 *taking more notes and thinking* "Decrease brittleness". OOOOO OOOOO OOOO Tempering! LOL Crystal structure!!!! That's got to be why I have more luck with this. I temper! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 ... but C3 really will cool without the dreaded C3 Circle if the temperature is right and the candles are cooled evenly - not too warm, not too cool, just right with no drafts. A big box helps. I used one last week that was too close to the candles and it messed up the tops (no C3 circle, though LOL). Space out the candles on a cookie rack (so the air can circulate underneath) and carefully place a big box over the candles. I have used styrofoam coolers and the oven with success also. HTHOMG - I just noticed that you are using straight C3 with nothing, not even a wick in it. Man, no WONDER you are frustrated! Hang in there - you'll get it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlemaker74 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Or decrease the brittleness of the wax so that it doesn't crack as readily. Ok, ill bite, lol... how do you decrease the brittleness of the wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Nothing will help straight C3 if the candle isn't cooled evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlemaker74 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Or if there was a way to keep the top of the candle from cooling so fast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 When all else fails, chock it up to the wax gremlins... kinda like soaping faeries, but different!!! Sad, but true!!!-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racolvin Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 The right ambient temp and humidity can impact it as well. I don't use C3 but I would get that "C3 circle" effect you describe on occasion when I didn't pour hot enough compared to the ambient temp.It's true that things will naturally cool from the outside in, but it's also true that it will happen from the bottom up. The hotter liquid wax will stay on the top, so if you sit and watch it, it should cool from the bottom and sides first - sort of a reverse melt pool Anyway, I get my best picture perfect results when I see it starting to cool evenly from the bottom up. If it starts to set up randomly throughout the candle or if the sides cool too quickly, it usually means that the ambient temp in the workshop is too low and/or I poured too cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 You can try pouring at a lower temp, it does seem to help some with the circular cracks. I pour between 110-125. Also adding Universal Soy Additive has helped tremendously with the cracks. Don't overheat the jars either, they shouldn't be higher than the temp of the wax you're pouring into them. I use C-3. I've never tried to cover my candles with cardboard or put them in a box, but I've heard that helps as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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