Relief Holes question

[CareBear]

As my pillars burn I can always see clearly where I filled in my relief holes and I hate this.

How can I avoid it? I do my repour hotter than the original pour thinking it would help, but it doesn't. Maybe I should try the opposite...?

[Fern]

When you make your relief holes, you want to stop about an inch before the top of your candle. Make sure you make your holes about 1/4" wide and re-open them periodically while they're setting up. Once your candle has completely set up, do your re-pour.

How the heck are you seeing your relief holes any way? You do realize that the top of your candle is actually at the bottom of your mold, right? Some people who are new to candle making, make that mistake. Just thought I'd ask just to see if that was the case.

[CareBear]

Yes, I carefully poke so the hole doesn't go all the way through and I fill them once the candle has cooled.

The problem is that I can see where the holes were when the candle is burning and the wax is liquid and transparent. When the candle is cold it looks just fine. They are not holes any more, of course, since I filled them, but I can see where they were.

[Crafty1_AJ]

Yup, it happens. I know what you're talking about. The melt pool reveals the relief holes/repour. The candle burns fine; it just shows.

[CareBear]

Yup, it happens. I know what you're talking about. The melt pool reveals the relief holes/repour. The candle burns fine; it just shows.

exactly. Thank you for clarifying. Somehow I just could not explain myself.

And thankfully the candles burn fine but still it bugs me - especially cause I don't see them in other folks' candles.

I use CBL-141. Is it my wax do you think? Or my technique?

And will I EVER be satisfied?

[Fern]

I always make rustic pillars. I use 3 heaping tablespoons of stearic per lb of wax and never see my relief hole re-pours. Using the stearic will increase the opacity of your wax so you won't be able to see through your candle while it's burning.

[CareBear]

they are evident when I look down through the melt pool, not from the side.

[Scent Cellar]

What pillar wax are you using, Carol? And do you add color to your pillars?

[CareBear]

Sorry - guilty of not giving any information :embarasse The wax is CBL-141 from Candlewic. And yes I've been using colorant - the liquid from Peak and from Candles & Supplies (at their recommended rate).

ETA: FO at 6%

[judyvega]

I always see my relief holes while burning, also - doesn't bother me, though.

[Scented]

they are evident when I look down through the melt pool, not from the side.

Quit looking.

Sometimes you'll see them and sometimes you may not. Waxes may make a difference, but I doubt it. You need the hotter pour on pillars. How much hotter have you gone?

The hotter pour helps to bind the waxes together. A cooler pour won't necessarily work and it won't necessarily not work. You could try pouring at the same temp as your regular pour.

I don't use your wax, but I know that a cooler pour isn't necessarily going to melt its way into the crooks and crannys formed.

[CareBear]

I usually do a repour about 5- even 10 degrees hotter than my main pour. Can't get any hotter so might as well try cooler

And if ONLY I could quit looking...

I'm not really liking this wax anyway - maybe I'll find myself a new one.

[Oh-MYo]

Yep, I know exactly what youre talking about. I used to have that all the time. Just another reason to use wick pins:D

Oh and for what it's worth, my "wick pins" are pieces of copper rod that I salvaged from a dollar store garden whirly.

[Camay]

Why do wick pins make a difference? I use pins and poke relief holes. Sometimes I see the holes and sometimes I don't.

[Oh-MYo]

Why do wick pins make a difference? I use pins and poke relief holes. Sometimes I see the holes and sometimes I don't.

As I understand it, the purpose of poking relief holes is to stop the wax from pushing the wick off to one side as it cools. So not only does a wick pin not move, but it also gives the heat another avenue for escape.

The wick pin itself is the relief hole I suppose. Wax will bind to a wick but not to a wick pin. I only pour pillars in aluminum molds so perhaps that matters too.

Now that's just my understanding and my experience. Perhaps someone can say it better or explain better.

And for what it's worth--I got air pockets only when I poked relief holes. Maybe it's just me:tongue2:

[Camay]

"And for what it's worth--I got air pockets only when I poked relief holes. Maybe it's just me:tongue2:"

I am going to try not poking a hole on the next pillar I pour. I have always poked the hole because I thought it let heat escape, as you said, but also to release any air bubbles that were incorporated while pouring. I now use the seamless aluminum molds with wick pins, but for years I used the traditional tin seamed ones from Pourette with unprimed wick.

Maybe I need to pour slowly down the wick also to decrease air incorporation.

Question: does anyone use a water bath to cool with the seamless molds?

[Scented]

As I understand it, the purpose of poking relief holes is to stop the wax from pushing the wick off to one side as it cools. So not only does a wick pin not move, but it also gives the heat another avenue for escape.

The wick pin itself is the relief hole I suppose. Wax will bind to a wick but not to a wick pin. I only pour pillars in aluminum molds so perhaps that matters too.

Now that's just my understanding and my experience. Perhaps someone can say it better or explain better.

And for what it's worth--I got air pockets only when I poked relief holes. Maybe it's just me:tongue2:

Poking relief holes is to relieve the tension of the wax so it doesn't collapse in on itself, cave in, pull in, cause surface dents/craters whatever. I get them using wick pins and pouring layers and if I don't have something that anchors my wick pins (helps keep them center), they will move, particularly if I tilt.

I use the seamless aluminum, so I don't support your theory.

[Camay]

Ah yes, the surface tension of the wax must be relieved. I knew there was another reason to poke.

[CareBear]

plus it's somehow satisfying...

[Camay]

Poking things is fun...

[Oh-MYo]

Poking relief holes is to relieve the tension of the wax so it doesn't collapse in on itself, cave in, pull in, cause surface dents/craters whatever. I get them using wick pins and pouring layers and if I don't have something that anchors my wick pins (helps keep them center), they will move, particularly if I tilt.

I use the seamless aluminum, so I don't support your theory.

Not a problem. I just do what works for me. I dont tilt and my wick pin is anchored at the bottom wick hole, at the top with a jar lid that has a hole poked in it and fits perfectly on the mold.

I pour and let it sit. I can see how tilting and layering as you do may create a need to do relief holes.

[cybersix]

I see them too. not always, but sometimes it happens and I hate it!!! I use a common paraffin with stearic or vybar added, I guess it's more a temperature question than the type of wax.. more heat, more holes filling... maybe??

[Scented]

Not a problem. I just do what works for me. I dont tilt and my wick pin is anchored at the bottom wick hole, at the top with a jar lid that has a hole poked in it and fits perfectly on the mold.

I pour and let it sit. I can see how tilting and layering as you do may create a need to do relief holes.

I like the sounds of that kind of wick pin. I slide mine through the opening, press into place and can't make the bugger stay put sometimes, unless I use a doo dad that was made to keep it center, but even those have pulled up at times.

[topofmurrayhill]

It doesn't matter what temperature you do the repour. When you pour hot wax on cold wax there's always gonna be a seam and you'll still see where the holes were through the melt pool.

As it goes from hot to cold, solid wax shrinks more than just about any other substance. That means a lot of empty space where the wax was. The purpose of the holes is to make sure the empty space only happens where we want it and can easily fill it up with more wax. We also want to make sure the stretching of the wax due to shrinkage doesn't bend the wick.

As long as you know WHY you're poking relief holes, you can accomplish the purpose any way you want. Cut a circle around the wick and push the wax down the center if that looks better to you. Regardless of how you do it, you don't have to poke down all the way to the liquid wax, just close to it. When the candle is cool enough you can stop.

You may find that different waxes and additives cool and shrink differently. Mottled candles for instance typically stop shrinking shortly before the mottling starts, so continuing to stab at them doesn't accomplish anything except make deeper spaces for muck to accumulate.

With some formulas you might even be able to avoid poking relief holes by doing multiple repours as the candle cools. Approach that with caution because you could get air sucked in to create hidden pockets.

[CareBear]

As long as you know WHY you're poking relief holes, you can accomplish the purpose any way you want. Cut a circle around the wick and push the wax down the center if that looks better to you. Regardless of how you do it, you don't have to poke down all the way to the liquid wax, just close to it. When the candle is cool enough you can stop.

Thanks for the explanation Top. This is what Stella has taught me to do with palm and I love the result - so I'll give it a shot with paraffin as well!

And when I have a breather I'll continue to explore other wax options as well.