starring Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 I'm making my first candles (I did take a calss first but they didn't cover much). I am using a star shaped container and after I poured my first layer, the soy cooled and pulled away from the star's points.So, should I have heated the container? Should I have heated the outside of the container after I poured the soy in, and if so, right away or wait until it cools?Edited to add, could I be pouring at too high a temperature? My melt point is 120 and I'm pouring at about 140 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perkyaim99 Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 If you're using 100% soy, you should pour when it gets slushy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 I am not sure I understand, but I'm going to take a stab at guessing in the absence of more information... If you were pouring layers into a container and the first layer became too "set" and pulled away from the glass, my FIRST question would be What wax are you using? It sounds like you allowed the first layer to become too cool before you poured the second layer.If you were NOT pouring layers, but simply filling a container, again, what wax were you using? A container wax should not pull that far away from the container. If it was a "wet spot," did you wash the container carefully with hot water & air dry before pouring? Residue inside the container from manufacturing will cause wax to not adhere well, creating a "wet spot."I do not know if you are pouring at too high or low a temp because you did not say what kind of wax you are using... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 If you are using CBA it is designed to pull away slightly from the container. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starring Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 Hi Everyone, I'm using Cargill C-3 100% container wax. I just made a new one waiting to pour when slushy and it worked great!!!I am making layers, pouring one waiting till it cools fully then adding the second layer.So far so good on my slushy poured one, however I am getting a little funky top, but hopefully the blower will take care of that at the end.How long to cure before I test these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starring Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 Okay, blower was a bad idea, didn't help.So what now? my two layers look good and are stocking to the glass container well, but the top looks all lumped and textured, not smooth at all! I did a repour on the top and it didn't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Do you have a heat gun, it will take care of the smoothing out the top. If not a hairdryer will work, but be careful that the melted wax does not blow all over the place. C-3 alone tends to do this unless you are very careful to follow the steps Stella gave here. Actually, I think most of the soy waxes do this unless you follow those steps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeana Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 It can take a few days to see if all of it will pull away from the sides or stay on there. Keep in mind once you burn it, it will look totally different. I haven't used a blow dryer to fix my tops before I think it puts out too much wind. You can pick up a heat gun for about $8, they are very worth it. If you are planning to make more candles, this is a very important tool. You can use them for fixing imperfections and other stuff, including what you have going on with your star candle. Just a little FYI, this will most likely be a very difficult shape to wick. For a quality burn you may want to think about working with a round shaped container in the future. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starring Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 Thanks everyone, looks like I picked a killer first shape to start with! I have no idea if my wicks will work, I guess only time will tell after they cure and I test!I don't have a heat gun but I'll definitely get one!Any ideas about the air bubbles as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 If you poke relief holes, the heat gun will take care of filling in air pockets as well. If you're talking about little tiny burst bubbles on top, the heat gun alone will take care of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fern-Marie Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Also, make sure that you wash the containers really well to get the 'polish' stuff off of them. That will cause a pull away as well. Some soys are made to pull away from the container...this characteristic baffles me in a 'container wax' product, what ev.A heat gun to warm the sides of the glassware will generally cause the wax to bond back to the glass.You'll be fine. I know it's annoying and frustrating at times. Keep at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I agree that you have chosen a difficult shape for your first attempts! If you are pouring layers, you should not wait until the previous one has completely cooled - only until it has just set enough to allow you to pour the next layer. When pouring layers, particularly slushy, pick up the container and rap it on the table a couple of times to settle the wax and allow air bubbles to collect, surface and break. If the tops look bad, you can add Universal Soy Additive (from JBN) to help with smoothing the tops. If the candles are cooling unevenly or in a draft, the tops will look pertty rough. C-3 produces a very nice, smooth top, so I think your difficulty lies with technique. Try cooling the candles under a large box or in the oven where the air temp is constant and can circulate all around the candle. If the tops cool too quickly, your chances of them lumping is great. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starring Posted August 8, 2007 Author Share Posted August 8, 2007 Hi all,I got a heatgun and zapped my three candles and they look great now!All that's left is to let them cure then do the test burns!!! I hope I wicked at least one correctly, lol!Thanks for all the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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