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What appears to be my problem with these?


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I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for in the pics but it looks like the color of the wax from the melt pool is now a different color post burn? Or is it that the crystal pattern is not the same as the unmelted?

If there is color change, I gotta tell ya I had this same type of issue. In my case I was using Astorlite Q which is a palm container wax. I was making wickless at the time so soot couldn't have been the cause in my case. The candles went from a beautiful green to an absolutely nasty yellow/brown after the candle set back up after it's first melt on the warmer. I posted my experience on here but got very little responses. I honestly got so frustrated with the color changes that I just put it away and haven't pulled out that wax for almost 2 years now..ugh. :cry2: Maybe someone knows what causes this and will chime in.

If it's the pattern change, I'm assuming that's simply due to the fact that the wax is cooling at a different speed/rate than what the entire candle cooled at when you poured it. Hope that makes sense.

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Two things I can think of:

  • The wax from the original pour has all pulled away from the container, but when your meltpool sets back up that is stuck to the glass. Hence the two "colors". Compare this to "wetspots".
  • The wax that is in the meltpool cools at a different rate than the original candle hence the color change - compare this to a repour on a pillar candle - repour is cooling at a much faster rate than the original pillar.

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Thanks for your responses....some definate alternatives to soot seeping into the melt pool. However, I am now burning that candle as we speak and there is definately black wisps of something floating in the wax. So,I can't rule out the soot problem either. On the other hand,if you used a wickless candle and had the same problem then it could be what the Candle Science folks told me and that is that it is the nature of natural waxes including soy as I guess it happens there also. If it is the nature of a natural wax candle then I can live with it and if it's not then I need to try different wicks and try to lick the soot problem or not put as much color in them or fragrance oils as well.

Mike

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OK. Here are my ideas:

What you are seeing is the rearrangement of the crystals after being exposed to heat. The wax crystals will not reharden EXACTLY like they did when the candle was first poured 'cause the temperatures, wax thickness and other conditions have changed. In fact, they change somewhat differently each time the candle is lit - the colorant can get pulled differently also. The darker area on the blue one is where the wax was heated to a lower melting point than the original candle and you are losing some of the crystal effect, which makes the color appear darker. Because the candles are in containers, there is more heat trapped and conveyed to the outer areas of the candle. You would not see this effect to this extent on a palm pillar candle 'cause it is burning in the open - BUT if you look INSIDE that same palm pillar, you will see a difference in the structure of the crystals for each burn preceding the melt pool.

As the candle burns down in the container, you may notice some soot (even if the candle did not seem to be producing soot initially), particularly if the wick is not well-trimmed or the flame is not steady. There is also more jar surface to catch the soot particles, so if the FO concentration, wick size, etc. is a litle off, you would see it more as the candle burns down further in the jar. HTH :wink2:

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Homecomfort, the apparent color of palm wax can change dramatically depending on the temperature. If I pour a palm pillar at a low temp, the crystals will not form and the candle will appear more translucent and darker with jumplines. If I pour at a high temp and allow the candle to cool very slowly, it will have lots of interesting crystals and the overall color will appear lighter with more contrast between the larger crystals and the smaller crystals.

And everything in between. :)

So the original color may appear to change when the wax is melted and rehardens. The crystals arrange themselves differently and thus the color appears different also. I think this is most likely what you saw.

The effect of melting and cooling and remelting and cooling could also have an effect on the colorant - I always use the same colorants so I cannot vouch for this out of my own experience.

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Yup, that's what happens to mine too, except I don't color mine. I think it's the nature of the wax. I hate to bring Mia Bella into this again,but since they also use a palm wax and they are a major candle manufacturer, it happens to their candles too. Which in my opinion is why they have labels that go ALL the way around and from top to bottom of their candles. If you were to burn one, then peel the plastic label off their candle it does it to theirs too. So, I really think it's just the nature of the palm wax.

BTW, your candles are beautiful!!

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Just curious - what did CS tell you?

Hi Henry,

CS told me that they thought it was the nature of the wax....kind of like wet spots in soy candles....I may just have to live with it I guess. I really like natural wax candles but maybe my time has come to try paraffin candles too.

Mike

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the nature of the wax....kind of like wet spots in soy candles

Wet spots on soy wax container candles happen because the wax is not adhering to the glass. I haven't had a wet sopt in a C-3 container candle since I began ALWAYS cleaning the containers properly before pouring.

"The nature of the wax..." now THERE'S a non-answer!:rolleyes2

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Wet spots on soy wax container candles happen because the wax is not adhering to the glass. I haven't had a wet sopt in a C-3 container candle since I began ALWAYS cleaning the containers properly before pouring.

"The nature of the wax..." now THERE'S a non-answer!:rolleyes2

Your side of the world must be totally different than my side Stella, because I properly clean my containers too and still get wet spots. However, wet spots don't bother me. Just about every single candle I see on store shelves has wet spots.

What does bother me are the other side effects working with soy can cause. I will say, I read on this site about "tempering" - tried it - liked it. Now I just let the wax sit for a couple of hours, then re-heat till it looks good, and pour into my clean containers. I cover with a box insulated with additional cardboard and cover with a thick towel. Tops come out flat and pretty. Still get wet spots, but no matter. Of course, that all changes once it's burned.

I've had one test candle change colors on me similiar to the ones you had littlebrownbug. But mine was a 70% LP415 and 30% J223 mix, in a 4" diameter jar, double wicked with CDN 8's, scented with butter cream and dyed a pale yellow. Great melt pool, no sooting on jar or from wicks when burning. But when the melt pool set up, the wax was grey. It was the first time I had tested a CDN - wondered if it could have been the coating. But haven't tried making another candle with that combo again, so really couldn't say. The meltpool sets up grey with every burn. However, I have used CDN's single wicked in smaller jars, same wax, dye, FO, and no change in color like those.

I'll probably need to try the same candle and see if it does it again. And if yes, try different FO's and colors. :rolleyes2

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I agree with Stella about the melt and remelting of the wax losing crystalization. I noticed it on a couple of my testers. Upon closer investigation, the pattern was gone compared to the original pour and the wax was darker where it had melted and set back up.

If you look at the picture I posted earlier for my palm pillars, the pink one has a "jump line". I poured a little wax to secure the votive holder and let it cool for 5 or 6 minutes then poured the rest. Where I started the repour, there is a line. That line is darker than the rest of the candle similar to the area around the top of your candle.

It is the nature of the wax in that when it melts and sets back up, you will get a different "look". That look is different than when the glass was hot, the wax was hot and everything cooled slow on your original pour.

I wouldn't stress over it. Actually, pat yourself on the back that you are getting a clean burn to the glass like you are. I am struggling with that in my containers. A couple will do it then a couple won't grr lol

What combination (wax, wick and jar size) are you using? Enquiring minds want to know :grin2:

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Wet spots on soy wax container candles happen because the wax is not adhering to the glass. I haven't had a wet sopt in a C-3 container candle since I began ALWAYS cleaning the containers properly before pouring.

"The nature of the wax..." now THERE'S a non-answer!:rolleyes2

Exactly what I thought to Stella....it must be the industry's stock answer....I seem to hear it alot...

Mike

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Palm container wax, after burning and cooling the melt pool will be a slightly different color. Some colors it is more noticeable than in others.

Like Candle Science told you, it is the nature of the wax. No one has ever complained about it so I don't consider it a big deal.

Same with wet spots, they are caused by temperature changes and there is absolutely nothing you can do to prevent them from showing up at some point and time.

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OK, so let me add another variable! My friend does bath and body and some of her oils will actually change the color of the hot process soap she makes. Told me that vanillas are notorious for turning various shades of brown!

Something else to consider! :cry2:

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Hi Henry,

CS told me that they thought it was the nature of the wax....kind of like wet spots in soy candles....I may just have to live with it I guess. I really like natural wax candles but maybe my time has come to try paraffin candles too.

Mike

Maybe try BW then? (If you don't mind non-container candles).

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