C3 pour,container and room temps to get a smooth top & 100% adhesion in a single por

[Wick-it-up]

Hello All,

I am using C3 after testing several waxes. I am having inconsistant tops and side adhesion and would love any input that is out there. Last week poured several dozen 8 oz. straight sided jars with approx. 7oz C3 with 6% FO and .002% dye flake. Heated to 165 F , added dye and FO and poured at approx. 160F. Jars and room were at approx. 81F. This batch came out perfect. Smooth tops, perfect adhesion. Trimmed wicks, capped and boxed them 2 days later. Today I noticed that almost all of the candles have had the wax pull away from the jar (no adhesion). Room temp in storage area is about 60F.

Earlier this week, did a batch, same size jars, 6% FO, .0012% dye flake, same melt and pour temps but room and jars were at 74F. There were sinkholes and "ugly" tops within an hour after pouring and after compltete cooling about 50% lack of adhesion. Had to remelt several candles and use a heat gun on most tops. Two days later, again at 60F room temp, there is 100% lack of adhesion on these candles.

I've read some past postings. Is 125F pour temp the key to good tops, no sink holes and perfect adhesion? Where does jar and room temp during the pour come into play? Is this wax so sensitive to temp that a 20 degree change in room temp take a candle from 100% adhesion to zero adhesion?

Any helpful input would be greatly appreciated

[kandlekrazy]

I use C3 alot and with 1 oz fo per pound of wax. I heat to 175, transfer wax to heated glass measuring pitcher add my fo (and dye when I use it) at this time and stir for 2-4 min. I pour between 130-140 (the hotter the pour, the smoother the tops come for me, but I live in very humid climate) I tried pouring cooler or slushy and I get big sink holes?? C3 gets circular cracks about 1/2" out around the wick...these come out easily as they are only on top with a heat gun or a micro torch. Sometimes it gets weird around the wick, but that also resolves with the heat gun or torch. I suck at second pours so I avoid them at all costs, it just doesn't adhere well for me.

HTH:highfive:

[2rottndogs]

I don't worry about how the tops look for the most part. Some sinking or pulling away from the wicks is fine with me since when the candle is burned, none of that will exist again. Not to mention... I like my customers seeing some of that as long as it's not horrendous looking... it adds to the uniqueness of being *home* poured and not mass produced like some name brand candles.

I've poured at all kinds of temps.. hot, cold, slushy, clear... it hasn't mattered enough for me to work myself in to a nosebleed over. What may make a beautiful candle one day may not work the next.

Kimberly

[Fire and Ice]

I have worked with C-3 since the day it came out and my experiance has always been that it IS a two pour wax. I tried it as a one pour and got crators and such. With two pours, I get great smooth tops and I always pour HOT!

Fire

[kandlekrazy]

I just started working with EcoSoya CB Advanced and while I love the wax the adhesion is bad. It looks really good the first day, but pulls away worse than the C3. I'm not really sure, but I think climate has a lot to do with performance, so what works great for one of us might not work at all for another. I'm going to test the 415 this week, but most likely will go back to using only C3 as I can pick it up and save big $$ with no shipping. I've pretty much given up on full adhesion to the glass....take a look at some of the Yankee candles and most are pulled away in some area of the glass and they sell off the shelves like hotcakes!

[Wick-it-up]

Thank you all for the input.

Worked on a few color/wick testers this weekend and poured at about 145F into a 145F jar and allowed to slowly cool to room temp. Will let you know how they look.